and it is AWESOME!! I have been fighting the vacume actuator on the front axle for a while(4x4 kicks out at the worst times) and found out it is $271 for a new(dealer only...) part that was out of stock. I found this cable activated part that replaces the vacume part, and will never be stuck at the bottom of my driveway because of vacume again
It was $209 at napa and was a 1.5 hour job (less if the picture of the fork was the right way; directions were wrong) but now it is instant. VERY HAPPY!!

 

Did you have to fight adjustment more than what the directions stated?

When I originally installed mine months ago I followed the directions to a T. I was never able to just push the button and pull the rod to engage. I have always had to twist mine counter-clockwise which is bad according to posi-lok. Now mine is more or less FUBAR'd so I have to buy a new cable.

 

where and how did you run the cable into the cab? Thats why I havnt gotton one yet wasnt sure how to get it in and where to mount it.

Chris

 

The directions for that part of the install are fantastic. You have to drill out an existing screw hole at the bottom of your dash. Its replaced with a nut, bot, and mounting bracket. You also have to drill a hole in the firewall, but a template is supplied to make sure its in the right spot and a grommet is supplied.

 

I adjusted mine Mark

using the little nuts on the cable u can adjust it, mine is a simple twist and pull, and to disengage it, i do have to twist it a bit cause at times it will jump back into 4wd indicator mode, sorry about the luck with the new cable

Captain..

It is super easy to run the cable, i will be honest tho it is a bit long, but not a problem, from the hole u drill on the firewall, i ran it along the side of the chassis frame, and then to the axle, Using some Zip ties i tied it down where i needed it to be and the routed the cable all along the axle to where the actuator used to be...

Remove ur doubts and get urself one! u will love it!

Rick

 

Rick on which end of the cable? There's only one nut on the CAD end.

 

Use the pic as refrence...



You do know that you have to sort of screw that actuator housing on the threaded end of the cable, The instructions say, IIRC that you have to get that thing in there about half and inch, and then you use the nut to sort of lock in place where you need it... So what i did to get mine right is i put it as the instructions said and engaged and disengaged it a few times to see if it worked, I then removed the housing and started to turn it to loosen a bit to see what it will do, it turned out that slack in the cable caused crappy engagements, and too tight a cable it was liable to jump out, So i went back and just turned the housing i believe it was one more turn full turn than the 1/2 inch the instructions say, and put it back on the truck, i engaged this thing again and all seemed well, I then used the little nut on there to tighten this thing to where I wanted it and make sure that it didnt move..

Fairly simple really, hope this helps!

Rick

 

Thanks. I'm gonna try and readjust mine one more time tomorrow before I break down and buy a new cable.

 

Forgot to mention

Remove the little light actuator when u do this, it will make the job much easier... hope u get it adjusted.. good luck!

Rick

 

if you are having trouble bolting up your actuator housing with the cable hardly screwed into the aluminum housing, then you got the same instructions I got

turn your shift fork around in the housing- you will be able to thread the end in about 3/4"(instead of stripping out the housing, or only getting 1 thread in...) and with the cable forward(coupler disengaged) the c-clip should be touching the housing.

the install was easy except where they took the picture of the shift fork backwards It sure works good though!!