If the TST is only a 60 hp box (didn't know they had them), then it probably doesn't tap the pump wire. So you have to boxes (TST, Smarty) both trying to squeeze the most out of the VP without a wire tap. The VP can only dish out so many ponies, and the limit is usually around 65-70hp for no wire taps. So you can stack as many boxes as you like, if the wire isn't tapped, you're not gonna get much more than 65hp gain with them. Your gains with the Smarty alone do look small though.

 

One thing to remember is that when stacking stuff you get diminishing returns with each thing... Otherwise Brian would have had about 1000hp...

 

Be careful with the terms. A non-tapping box might at 60hp at certain points in the powerband (best gain), but at the highest HP reading will only go up about 40hp.

Same thing for many heavy fueling boxes. Most claim 120hp, but that's best gain. Peak numbers will go up about 90.

On an HO, a fueling box might give a "best gain" of about 90, but a peak gain of only 65-70.

So if you're talking PEAK numbers, as most people are, then here's how it would play out at the wheels:

Baseline: 235hp.
W/ Smarty: ~255-260hp.
W Smarty and TST1: 280-300hp.

I still think your dyno results are too low. But they're not as extremely low as someone might guess just by adding up the numbers.

JMO

 

The TST does tap the wire. I cut the wire, added in the TST wire and soldered everything together and black taped the crap out of it. Would have rather used heat shrink, but there wasn't enough room to get in there with it.

Is there a way to test a VP44s output? I'd rather not spend $1100 just because it "might" be dying.

Here is my dyno sheet. I hope this can help you guys help me.

Green is "stock" (RV275 injectors, ATS exhaust manifold, straight pipe, and boost elbow)

Blue is Smarty added in

Red is Smarty and TST.

 

you got that right!!!

just like that truck on ebay a while back. had stage 5 jammers, an attitude and a programmer. he thought he had 500+ horses. on the stock turbo! some people

 

I wouldn't bother replacing a VP that "might" be tired. I'd wait until it was no-kidding DEAD.

I'm just saying it might explain the lowish dyno numbers you saw.

JH

 

This is some of the reason I was wondering what's up with my truck...

This is quoted from the Smarty webpage:

"Q. How much horsepower will the CaTCHER add to my 98.5-02 engine?

First of all, the power added by the CaTCHER depends upon the mods done to the engine. That makes this question even more difficult to answer. On a stock engine typically we see an Hp increase at the rear wheels of about 60 Hp.( Is there still such a thing, a STOCK truck??? )

With taller injectors the Hp gain increases. How much? I don't know! That depends upon the injectors, turbo, intake , exhaust... You got the picture. The best mod combined with a CaTCHER is without doubt a good set of injectors."


Is only a 10hp gain typical of the Smarty? I have never seen any dyno #s in the 2 years it's been out to be honest.


Basically I am trying to figure out if the #s for my truck are normal and the companies are really inflating the #s, or if something isn't right. If something isn't right that means I have some work ahead of me.

If they are correct, cool... time for bigger and better stuff

 

If you look on the curve you will see a 50 to 60 HP gain with the smarty, it's not max HP that they go by.

 

You need a FP guage. I only get around 30-40 hp from my juice so dont expect alot just b/c they say it will do something. But with the IP I am running it is a little different story for me. I would look into a FP gauge and maybe an IP

 

Did you fully block the wastegate? How much boost are you hitting on your dyno runs?

 

Around 28-30psi best I remember. On the street I can sometimes hit 35psi.

I have fuel pressure light, it will come on if the pressure is under 5psi. Hasn't come on. I know it works because I forgot to plug in the lift pump after working on something and the light wouldn't shut off.

 

Yeah I see that now. To be honest, I didn't really look at the graph very closely.

 

You're right, and right where you want the power too.

As far as the vp44 goes, it has been dyno proven that new pumps make the most power. Don't expect to be able to reach 600 on fuel with an old vp44.

 

When I dynoed my truck last year, without Smarty (HRVP, Jammer 2's) it did 300. With Smarty, it did 376. This year, Luke dynoed 400(Twins, huge DDP's, HRVP). Added the Smarty to 9, and he did 500. Those are all peak numbers. Really depends on the setup of the truck.

 

Your graph looks funny. Your making 100hp at 2000 rpm's and then 275hp at 2150 rpm? How did the truck pull on the dyno? If your pulling 35psi of boost, your VP isn't that bad. Honesty, I've tried the new VP vs the old vp. At times it would be hard to determine if there was any gain at all. I would use a stealth plate as they get a better contact with wire. Is your TST box on? Is there power going from the box to the VP? I had a bad comp box that wouldn't send the 12volt signal to the pump. Edge vary the voltage to increase or decrease the amount of fuel that you can drain out of the pump. I drove around with a volt meter in the cab to see what kind of voltage was going to the pump. Its been a couple years since I did that, so my voltage #'s might be of abit. I'm thinking that the dyno wasn't working right or allowing your truck to load-up. How many pulls did you do on the dyno?