12V or 24V
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12V or 24V
I have just stated to look at a USED diesel ram. Im not going to be very pickey, Just want a Black DIESEL AUTO short bed 4x4. lol....
What i keep finding is they 12V for sale. I never really gave this much thought until last night.
What are the pros and cons of each.
Also this will be a Truck that is used. I will be pulling a car 3,500 and trailor 1,500? Which is nothing behind the diesel.
But I would also like to do a chip, injectors, exhaust.. Nothing to crazy but i would like to be able to hang with the faster imports. You know the mid 14 second cars.
anyway from a money stand point, which is better to modify and which one hold up better.
Any comits would be grate.
What i keep finding is they 12V for sale. I never really gave this much thought until last night.
What are the pros and cons of each.
Also this will be a Truck that is used. I will be pulling a car 3,500 and trailor 1,500? Which is nothing behind the diesel.
But I would also like to do a chip, injectors, exhaust.. Nothing to crazy but i would like to be able to hang with the faster imports. You know the mid 14 second cars.
anyway from a money stand point, which is better to modify and which one hold up better.
Any comits would be grate.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 831
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From: Alma, MI
If you are going to any upgrades to an auto you should start with the tranny. I money is not a real option when you buy it get a real tranny put in by DTT or ATS, they say that these are bullet proof and will hold the extra power you want to add. As far and which one is better 12 or 24, it all depends on who you talk to. I have had both and like them both, but I like my 24 better because it is a stick and all the power gets to the wheels.
dave
dave
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From: Laredo, Tx, 7 hours south of Dallas
A 12V is easier to make power untill the 450RWHP mark,, and 450RWHP should get you into the 14's.
A 24V is easier to make HP in the 500+RWHP mark.
A '97-'98 12V will make some good power cheaply untill 450RWHP. THen, from 450-550 the $$ price goes up significantly,, sometimes double of what you spent to get to 450.
A '98.5-'02 24V is $$ to get to 400RWHP,, but to pick up another 200RWHP is not too hard,, just a set of injectors, and a turbo change. (With tuning of course)
A '97-98 12V (early years won't make as good HP without more mods) will take, gauges ($200-$1,000), a #10 Plate ($220), some injectors ($300-$900), a Turbo($250-$1,500), and a GSK($150). (plus tranny
lol) to make 400-450RWHP
A '98.5 - '02 will take, gauges ($300-$1,000+), a COMP ($630), injectors ($300 -$1,200), fuel line upgrades ($150-$1,000) a turbo ($250-$1,500), and tranny. to make 450RWHP
To add 200RWHP....
The 12V will need the pump tuned on a pump stand (??) or a race pump ($3,000), some Delivery Valves ($470), and lots of tuning to get the power right.
The 24V will need a bigger turbo, and bigger injectors..
All these are rough quotes, and there are cases where the 12V wil lmake 500RWHP easy with few mods.
and cases where a 24V takes a ton more cash than a 12V....
Also, at 450RWHP, you can add a $700 Kit of NOS, and pick up the 200HP,, but all these figures were on #2 only.
Merrick
A 24V is easier to make HP in the 500+RWHP mark.
A '97-'98 12V will make some good power cheaply untill 450RWHP. THen, from 450-550 the $$ price goes up significantly,, sometimes double of what you spent to get to 450.
A '98.5-'02 24V is $$ to get to 400RWHP,, but to pick up another 200RWHP is not too hard,, just a set of injectors, and a turbo change. (With tuning of course)
A '97-98 12V (early years won't make as good HP without more mods) will take, gauges ($200-$1,000), a #10 Plate ($220), some injectors ($300-$900), a Turbo($250-$1,500), and a GSK($150). (plus tranny
lol) to make 400-450RWHPA '98.5 - '02 will take, gauges ($300-$1,000+), a COMP ($630), injectors ($300 -$1,200), fuel line upgrades ($150-$1,000) a turbo ($250-$1,500), and tranny. to make 450RWHP
To add 200RWHP....
The 12V will need the pump tuned on a pump stand (??) or a race pump ($3,000), some Delivery Valves ($470), and lots of tuning to get the power right.
The 24V will need a bigger turbo, and bigger injectors..
All these are rough quotes, and there are cases where the 12V wil lmake 500RWHP easy with few mods.
and cases where a 24V takes a ton more cash than a 12V....
Also, at 450RWHP, you can add a $700 Kit of NOS, and pick up the 200HP,, but all these figures were on #2 only.
Merrick
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Maybe so, but you're talking about two VERY reliable engines. The VP can be reliable if the fuel delivery is fixed.
The 24V is easier to bomb. Less tuning. Better high rpm power. Plug and play. Computerized timing means it's more streetable at higher power levels.
Since 700hp has been made with s STOCK unmodified VP, I don't see how i would ever need the heavier fueling capability of the P-pump.
The 24V is easier to bomb, but is is a little finicky sometimes.
The 12V is exceptionally tough, and moderate improvements are cheap.
i am happy with my 24V. Especially now that i have it fixed up (via wildcat max flow fuel system).
justin
The 24V is easier to bomb. Less tuning. Better high rpm power. Plug and play. Computerized timing means it's more streetable at higher power levels.
Since 700hp has been made with s STOCK unmodified VP, I don't see how i would ever need the heavier fueling capability of the P-pump.
The 24V is easier to bomb, but is is a little finicky sometimes.
The 12V is exceptionally tough, and moderate improvements are cheap.
i am happy with my 24V. Especially now that i have it fixed up (via wildcat max flow fuel system).
justin
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