Make sure teeth on the bit haven't all been bent straight. Should alternate in and out to prevent binding. Also look into different tooth counts... Some better for steel others for wood... Small count, Large tooth generally works better on the wood and a large count, small tooth normally is less 'grabby' on the metals..

Slow speeds generally best and cutting fluid if going through the metal as well. Agree with above handle is necessary.

 

thanks for all the advice.

when i put the magnum back in the locker, i saw the handle off a dewalt laying around, i will see if it fits.

also had a cheapo black & decker, it should be low torque, i will use it next time

had not thought about a better drill being part of the problem.

edit:
the dewalt has a bend in it somewhere, it wobbles some
but i will try it next time, set the clutch.

always better to let the drill take the hit, instead of me.
especially with the post about missing scalp......YIKES...

 

Those saw teeth are too course (that shown is for wood exclusively).

Get a blade with finer teeth and be prepared to have to clear those teeth of aluminum shavings often.

 

i wasn't clear, we are just drilling the wood, and not thru the metal. that one shot just shows the wood removed, and that's the wheel well metal under it.

you try to position the tie downs so either (or both) bolts go thru the metal frame ribs, for strength.

so part of the hole is REAL close to the metal, and it often catches at the bottom, that's expected, and you just go slooooooww


IIRC, that was labeled a "bi-metal saw"
meaning it could cut wood & metal, but it looks to coarse for metal to me.

 

Definitely better off with a cordless with clutch for that. Corded Power drills will kick your butt, especially if you're missing the side handle. I own one corded drill, Dewault Hammer drill and I only use it when I'm going through concrete...Which means it's been used twice in the last 6-7yrs. Other than that everything is cordless with clutch.

 

That drill looks like it has a hole for a side handle to screw in, that would help. The most important thing is to keep it straight, lean to side and it will bind.

 

I've done lots of those.

Take a rag and some solvent and get that tar looking build up off the hole saw.

Other than that, I brace myself with my leg to keep the drill straight, and feed it in slowly with gentle pressure at fairly high RPM.

Also, depending on the D rings you are putting in, you may not have to go nearly that deep. Mark the depth you need on the side of the hole saw, and pop the wood out with a small chisel or even a screwdriver.

 

Clean bit, Always remove the varnish from the bit between holes.

High speed bit with low down pressure is better for a clean hole and less grab.

Also you can try a forstner drill bit, very clean hole but they remove all the material and do not leave a plug. Another good thing about them is you do not have to drill through to get the hole you need if it happens to be less than he thickness of the wood you are drilling.

 

ok, see that hole the gray portion of your drill?
there should be a bar that screws into that to keep you from breaking your wrist.

 

Not to point out the obvious but I will say it anyway...Safety Glasses BEFORE you start blowing the chips out of the hole. There is glue all over the saw as well, when it gets hot it is going to grab the sides of the hole. As stated before, clean the bit

 

You absolutely cannot be succesful while holding it as shown in the picture. As soon as it tries to catch the grip off to one side makes it instantly bind. Use the extra handle set opposite the grip or get a hold of the body of the drill with one hand and get down on your knees.

Drill the pilot hole first with another drill. This way the hole saw won't suddenly come in contact and bind as the pilot breaks through the other side. Go slow and feed lightly. Pull out and clear the teeth periodically. Also, if you sort of orbit the top of the drill around (once you've got a nice groove) as you go, it will make a slightly bigger hole and bind less, plus it cuts faster this way and clears the chips.

Generally, dry plywood cuts very well with a hole saw. It's damp dimensional lumber that is frustrating.