Hey guys I need some feedback on Stihl chain saws. I picked up a bunch of free wood (Tahoe Pine) and found a guy who will buy me a Stihl chain saw for 6 cords cut into rounds. Anyone have any experience with either of these saws:

http://www.stihldealer.net/productde...tprods-41.aspx

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS460.html

I am leaning towards the 460 because it has more power and is lighter. I will be getting the 32" blade with either saw. Anybody with hands on experience with these saws I would appreciate some feedback. thanks....

Dave

 

I have a stihl ms260 20". It's been a great saw. They make a good chainsaw. I've heard good things about husky's too. This will be my second winter with this saw. It's already paid for it self 3x over or more. If I was having to buy wood i'd be broke. I go through about 5-6 cords per winter. Just maintain it well and it should last. Always make sure you run it out of gas before you store it. Just keep the chain tight and sharp and you should be good to go with either saw.

 

Thanks for the response master.... I was going to go with the 28" bar but I think since I am getting it for free I might as well get the 32" bar. I cut a log today that my 20" Poulan was struggling big time. I had to roll the log three times to drop off rounds....... I was able to get 40 cords of wood free so far this year. And the funny thing is I live where you can not burn wood. I don't even have a fireplace. I live in Reno, Nevada and work in Truckee, California ( Tahoe). I have been bartering the wood for tools and other cool stuff. So far it has worked out pretty good.... Can't wait to feel a 5.5 HP chain saw....!!!

 

Both are very nice saws. I have used both models. I have a MS440 and absolutely love it. Just be aware both are professional chainsaws. If you have never ran a bar that big it can be difficult to get used to. I would not recommend running a full chisel chain on a bar that big as they tend to kickback alot more. Also the longer the bar the longer the chain sharpening will be. Good luck with the purchase, and like i said either way you will be disappointed.

Marshall

 

If you're gonna use a 32" bar, get the 460. The decompression switch will save your back and shoulder too. My Husky 346xp takes a lot more energy to start than my 372xp with the decomp. Turn your oiler way up and get a couple spare chains and bar dresser.

Just sharpened all my chains last night useing my oregon electric bench sharpener for the first time. I don't know why I didn't buy it years ago. Man it made a fast job of it.

Also, get the helmet with screen and muffs! If anything, it saves a lot of down time picking just and chips out of your orifices. A lot nicer than chaceing around dirty earplugs too.

 

tn hillbilly made a good point on the kick back. Your Poulin would have come with an antikickback chain, which doesn't cut as efficient. A professional grade, 20" bar and chain is gonna cut a lot faster. A 32" bar might be a bit extreme for a 70cc saw. I cut and limb with a 20" bar with my 372. I do use a 32" bar for ripping with my grandberg mill, but mostly for better reach and balance with the mill, I rarely cut logs wide enouph to take up the whole bar and take it slow when I do. Chaikwa's got the right set up for ripping with a track and a 1000cc saw for the same bar length.

 

I have the 460 and a 360 pro. the 460 will handle anything you will ever cut with it. You won't regret the 460 but it is more for bucking and felling trees. it will wear you out if you limb with it. You can't go wrong with either one but if your gonna run a large bar, the 460 will be the best choice.

 

GOOD MORNING YE-ALL,
ALL OF THE ABOVE + IF YOU SEE A JOHN-SURETTE SAW THAT IS ALSO A GOOD ONE.
I HAVE 2 OF THEM ONE SMALLER 20 IN AND A LARGER ONE , BOTH CUT GREAT ,ONE THING I DON`T HAVE AND HAVE OVTEN WISHED I HAD , A SET OF (CHAPS) THAT ALONG WITH HEAD GEAR HELPS KEEP CHIPS OFF YOU !
I EAVEN DO SOME CHAINSAW VARVING FROM TIME TO TIME (WHEN MY BACK PERMITS)
DON, GOT THAT SHOW IN FRANKINMOUTH THIS WEEKEND, HOPEFULLY WE CAN GET TO GEOTHER AFTER I GET THAT OUT OF THE WAY. SMOLED FISH SOUNDS DELICOUS !
SCOTT DIDN`T LOSE YOUR ADDRESS, SHOULD BE SHIPPING YOU THAT VARVING BY END OF MONTH,GOOD TO HAVE YOU BACK IN CHARGE OF THE BREAK ROOM.
CLAUDE,JUST A SITTING HERE ON THIS SACK OF SEEDS, DRINKING HOT TEA BREWED IN KAILYS SOCK FOR ADDED FLAVOR.
HOPE FROSTY GOT TO NORWAY OK !LAST I HERE THEY LOADED HIM IN TO A GLIDER,ATTATCHED TO A 747, HMM ! SOUNDS RISKY TO ME.

 

I ran both fellin trees and bucking on a landing for 5 years during college. We ran these saws 6-8 hours a day 5 days a week. I personally like the 044 better, plenty of power, and a little spunkier. But that has been 6+ years so maybe the new are different. Both good choices, the 044 will do anything you ever want. if you are just cutting firewood I would recommend the 036 pro. does everything I have ever asked it to do with ease. both those saws are overkill if you are just cutting firewood. IMO.

oh yeah, we had a 044 get run over by a cat, couple replacement parts and it still ran.

 

Oh yeah, one more thing. the length off your bar really hinges on your height. if you are under 6', 28" is plenty. I ran a 32" so that I didn't have to bend over when runnin down a log limbing it, saves the back. Unless you cutting some massive trees, which i doubt, cause you couldn't handle the rounds to split anyways!

Jeez i keep thinking of things! I don't know how much you know about chains, but.... get skip tooth, not full comp. it has less teeth and is faster to sharpen. I can sharpen a saw in 3 minutes on my tailgate. I always laugh at guys that take a bunch of xtra chains and switch them when dull then take to shop to get sharpen, SPENDY!

then again most weren't loggers so I understand, but it really is easy to learn, plus the oregon chains have a guide on top of the teeth. ok I will be quiet now

 

I have a 170 I believe, a 2 something, and a 440 and will never have anything else.
The 440 has the skip tooth and let me tell you, it will grab and kick but it will cut like nothing else too.

 

Thanks guys for the responses. I have decided to go with the MS 441 http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS441.html . And going with the 25" bar. That should be more than enough. Hey guys give me some more info on the chains. I never realized that their where so many options? I cut a lot of wood when I was younger with my Dad. But never used a top end saw like the Stihl. What is kick back caused from? And what type of action does the saw do when it kick backs?

Thanks for the help.....

Dave

 

Aww, that Stihl is underpowered and will take too long to cut. If you got the muscles, then get one of these :

Just kidding on the Stihl, they're good saws

 

Good choice on the saw. I also have a 25" bar on mine. Havent found much i cant cut with it. If i need something bigger i will either borrow my buddies 880, or just leave it standing. Normally kickback happens when people use the end of bar to cut with. Just like the name implies, it will kick the bar back at you. It will lead to a bad day if it connects with you. Good luck with your sawing.

Marshall

 

I have an old Stihl 038AV with a 20" bar and have used a friend's Husky of about the same size. If you are looking at just slicing logs then either saw you are looking at will be fine depending on how strong your arms are. Full chisel chain on a heavy saw is not the best limbing combination but will allow you to one hand a vertical cut on a felled log if you so desire (not a recommended operation). My friend's Husky is prone to compression locking itself up occasionally so a bigger saw with decompression would not be a bad idea.

Jonsonred also makes a very good logger quality saw.

Be safe, wear hearing protection and a face shield. Be aware of your footing and surroundings at all times. BTdidn'tDT and have the scar to prove it.