Even though i have a 4x4, would it be worthwhile to invest in some snow chains for that 'just in case' time? If so, the reguler twisted or the aircraft cable type??<br><br>any comments welcomed..

 

Just because you have a 4x4 doesn't release you from the need for chains. It really depends on what your driving area is. Backwoods, mountainous, ski resorts, etc, etc. Chains are a good investment. Little snow, mostly safe highway miles, probably not. One thing to be aware of. If you chain up, you must chain up all four wheels if in 4X4. Gotta keep same traction to all four wheels. Nasty things can happen if you don't. Yes, I have chains for all four. But then, I get out in the woods sometimes and just feel that it's cheap insurance. Out here, we have a tire sales outfit called Les Scwab who will sell you chains. If you don't use them at the end of the season, you can return them for a refund. Course, keep the receipt. You may have someone in your area that does something similar. It really boils down to how comfortable and experienced you are with driving in 4X4. I consider myself experienced and I prefer to have the insurance of chains. Oh yeah, twisted link or cable depends once again on the type of driving surface, highway or backwoods. I personally prefer twisted link for gripping on the back trails if needed.
Just my two cents.

~Dave

 

What Dave said!. If your are going in rough snow areas, chains are a must!. But around town it isn't necessary, till it gets really icy bad!

 

There are some areas / roads and mtn passes in the west where, if they post it . ( CHAINS REQUIRED) --<br>YOU DON'T ! go , unless, you have chains, even tho you have 4/wd . Truthfully given experience, a lot of times you may make it without chains, where others less experienced will spin out and jackknife, and in general block the road. So if traveling these roads -- you carry chains in the winter so you can keep going . A lot of times if not towing and it is just chains required I will place a light set on the front and 4/wd slowly to where the chain removal area is and not lose very much time. When it is that nasty, you seldom run over 35-40 any way. Like the the others say chains needed , depends on your usage. big ole grody ones at all 4 corners for deep snow in the woods . and something light and easy to install for just icy packed snowy mountain passes. Main thing slick roads Just slow down !!! it takes only a little longer to get there --but given a roll over or other incident THAT takes a long time !!! <br>Gary

 

I agree with the other guys that you haul your vehicle with the equipment that you are going to need for the weather conditions your are expecting to meet. If you are going to drag a trailer threw the mountains you had better have some chains on board. On my vehicle I start out with adding a 6 inch tall by 6 ft by 8ft long box with sand bags in the bed. Next you add 4 studded tires and I am ready to roll. I have my cold weather gear, flairs, jumpers, first aid kit, tow rope, and chains. To be honest with you I have never had to put the chains on my pickups in over 30 years of driving between Montana and Alaska but it only takes once and you had better have them with you. I drove and own a couple of semi's and I used to have to chain them up all of the time to get thru the pass between Idaho, Montana, and Washington. Now days they have automatic chain systems but they are spendy.

 

Agree with everyone carry the items for winter with you (they dont help sittin at home)...best investment I made was a set of cable chains ez to put on without having to turn the wheels...they stay in my truck all year...since Ive been stuck in mud more then snow...and the cable chains are ezer on your tires when running on dry pavement...once you have slid off the road and damaged your truck the cost of chains would have been payed for :'(

 

I'll add that I personaly don't care for cables on a truck. Been there done that and have gotten stuck when the cables disintigrated under what I would call light stress.<br><br>On the otherhand it is absolutely amazing where you can go with chains on all four corners. ;D<br><br>Oh ya..one more thing..do your self a favor and do a trial installation at home. Nothing worse than finding out they don't fit or are missing something. Especialy at 2am when its 10deg, snowing so hard you can't see past your flashlight and you can't feel your hands. : <br><br>I got stopped once in the Sierras at a chain control point. It was late and the weather was horrible. The Highway Patrol was only letting 4x4s through but you had to have chains with you. I was also towing 12' single axel equipment trailer. They told me if the trailer had brakes I would need chains for that too.

 

I carry link chains but only for one set of tires. I also carry four heavy duty black bungee cords to place on the chains in an X pattern over the tire rim. It keeps the chains from rattling and takes up any slack that develops.

 

In Calif. vehicle code requires chains on one axle if tow vehicle has chains. The chains must be on trailer axle which has brakes. In some of our heavy storms the only vehicles allowed to go are 4 x 4 vehicles with chains both axles. Then they escort groups of 50 vehicles with a CHP 4x4 to control speed. I would wait a few hours until storm passes and roads plowed rather than risk towing on snow, hard packed, or ice. I have done it but it is not fun.

 

When I was in highschool I had an old rotten, worn out beaten up half ton chev. My cousin gave it to me after he retired it from road use.<br><br>I used to tear around in it in the fall after the grain was off. Sometimes in and out of pasture fields and swamps. It was only 2wd and when it got wet. You got stuck!<br>I found an ancient old set of tire chains a neigbour used to use on his ground drive manure spreader. I made them to fit and put a very heavy well cap in the bed.<br><br>It was unbelievable the mud and snow that truck would go through with only 2wd!<br><br>They were rotten finger smashers to put on though!

 

Wish I had a buck for every mile I drove in the northwest on hard pack and ice. One trip was over 1000 miles of hardpack. Never owned a set of chains for an 18. Lotta times sitting at the gates in Wyoming. Sat in a traffic line on the side of a mountain between Laramie and Chyanne for a day and a half, no chains, backed into the soft stuff, got going and did not stop till I hit the top. A locked up full screw with good tires will do a lot. It is usually a wiggle wagon on top blocking the road. Coarse Indiana had a saying on 65, &quot;God put it on, let God take it off&quot; and they did. US41 worked better. At least they plowed that.

 

Ok.. a couple more questions...<br><br>1) Diamond or Crosslink style? <br>2) Any preferred mfg<br>3) any mfg to stay away from<br><br>thanks..

 

I'm not an expert but...I think the cross link is good enough ( one length over the tread ) I don't have a suggestion for a manufacturer either way. All I would suggest is a heavy gage chain. I had a thin set of chains for a 2wd s10 and I bent all the links from spinning when the going got tough. the heavy ones cost more but they will never go bad and they will move from truck to truck for years to come.

 

I sorta like the diamond ones (and other similar designs) only because of how easy they are (or atleast the mfg says) to put on.. versus the standard cross link chains..<br><br>Any drawbacks to the mounting design on the non-cross link chains?? they seems to have a cable on the inside of the tire and the chains cross over the tire and then tightened down.. No need to drive onto the chains to mount them<br><br>thanks for all the feedback

 

A mountain out of a snowball. You'll find that the type you don't have to drive over leave a gap (the footprint of your tire) which could possibly cause problems. Brands? I'm sure there are a few but most stores carry only one brand at a time. The cross link versus diamond versus whatever. It all depends on what you expect. What is really important is the following: When you buy whatever you get, on a non threatening day, when it's half time or nothings happening, take your chains out and individually install them on your vehicle. Snug them up. Figure out what you're going to do with the extra links. Figure out how they snap and close the loops. Each brand is a little different. These things must be FITTED to your tires. I've had chains that were directional in the way they were mounted. Don't forget to get the rubber bungee type tighters. They cross attach to about 5 points on the face of the chain to snug up chain attachment. I use a small piece of red plastic coated wire to mark the front of the chain so you know which is outside and forward. You don't want to be learning how to install your chains in the middle of a snowstorm alongside the road with vehicles passing you kicking up slush and you of course are wearing your Sunday best. I've been using chains on all sorts of vehicles since I was old enough to discover that my Mother didn't like doing it and Dad was already gone to work. Short of installing the chains on your truck for you (I'd charge you $50. per tire, bombing money don't you know ) you probably have more information now than the average individual walking in the door, listening to the salesman or the indifferance of the clerk who actually works over in the paint department and has never used chains and until you asked, didn't even know they carried chains. Now, how about your pioneer kit?