POR15, is it worth it?
#1
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POR15, is it worth it?
I was wondering the worth of this stuff. At $120 and some change for a GALLON(!!) I want to make sure that this is worth it. Also, for those who have done it, pics would be nice. And also, what color should I get, Grey, Black or semi-gloss Black?
Jon
Jon
#3
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It is some chemical that you spray/brush/roll on and it turns the rust into hard chips while providing a undercoat that is super durable.
When I went to my favorite parts place, O'Reillys, I told the guy behind the counter, one of my favorites there, about it. He got a screwed up face and took me back to the shelves. I told him they did not carry it as I looked already. I asked him to call the warehouse. So he does. His eyes got real big as the guy on the other end, who knew of the stuff, told him what it did. "Dang! You must know what this stuff is. The guy at the warehouse said NOTHING!! is comparable to it. Nobody makes a good cheapo version yet." So he calls someone in Kansas City. While he is waiting, I tell not to be surprised as I heard this stuff was expensive. He gets the info, laughs and asks what color. I said I didn't know they came in colors. He laughed as he asked the guy the price. His jaw then dropped as he wrote down the price.
Needless to say, at $123, I want to make sure this is a good investment. If I get good results, the guys at O'Reilly might try it on there trucks.
Jon
When I went to my favorite parts place, O'Reillys, I told the guy behind the counter, one of my favorites there, about it. He got a screwed up face and took me back to the shelves. I told him they did not carry it as I looked already. I asked him to call the warehouse. So he does. His eyes got real big as the guy on the other end, who knew of the stuff, told him what it did. "Dang! You must know what this stuff is. The guy at the warehouse said NOTHING!! is comparable to it. Nobody makes a good cheapo version yet." So he calls someone in Kansas City. While he is waiting, I tell not to be surprised as I heard this stuff was expensive. He gets the info, laughs and asks what color. I said I didn't know they came in colors. He laughed as he asked the guy the price. His jaw then dropped as he wrote down the price.
Needless to say, at $123, I want to make sure this is a good investment. If I get good results, the guys at O'Reilly might try it on there trucks.
Jon
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Moisture cure eurothanes can still be susceptible to rust. Variables involved of course. I have seen side by side tests where POR did eventually show rust from the inside out, fairly short time period too. I prefer Picklex-20 for metal treatments and Zero Rust, a good ole fashioned alkyd oil product. Picklex isn't exactly cheap but it's use is efficient. Google them...
#5
I used POR 15 on some of my old farm junk. I have to say it is a hard tough coating but a pain to prep for. It can bubble so its not great for areas that show and you have to be careful about timing between coats and painting. It has to be painted. Today (great timing!) I just slathered on some product called Rust Bullit. Similar to POR 15 but no bubbles, easier prep, don't have to paint, but still pretty pricy. Eastwood has some that I would consider also.
#6
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I've had good luck with these types of products over the years of rusty cars....
I don't know about a gallon though? I used to just use enough to cover the old rust or bare metal around old rust.
It seemed to keep the rust at bay through some salty winters though.
If it were me I think I would get the cheap stuff and get a good primer
hope that helps!
I don't know about a gallon though? I used to just use enough to cover the old rust or bare metal around old rust.
It seemed to keep the rust at bay through some salty winters though.
If it were me I think I would get the cheap stuff and get a good primer
hope that helps!
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I used POR 15 on some of my old farm junk. I have to say it is a hard tough coating but a pain to prep for. It can bubble so its not great for areas that show and you have to be careful about timing between coats and painting. It has to be painted. Today (great timing!) I just slathered on some product called Rust Bullit. Similar to POR 15 but no bubbles, easier prep, don't have to paint, but still pretty pricy. Eastwood has some that I would consider also.
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#8
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I'm not sure what "kind" of paint Eastwood's brand is (it's also called Corroless) but I DO know that it works so good I doubt there's anything better. Apparently it was invented for painting offshore oil rigs in the North Sea.
I bought a '55 New Yorker years ago that had rotten floors under the carpet. I prepped both sides of the floor by using a wire cup brush on the angle grinder and degreasing/cleaning, then did one side with Corroless and one side with Rustoleum. A couple months later I got to test it REALLY well when I broke my collarbone, and had to drive the New Yorker in the winter salt, since my daily driver was a manual-shift, manual-steering Dodge truck and the New Yorker was power automatic everything.
It got to the point of big salt deposits being left on the painted floor every day, and the Corroless never let any rust past it AT ALL. Which was absolutely amazing, I was scraping my boots on it all the time too. The Rustoleum didn't do very well at all (I only use it for surfaces that are just barely rusty and it does OK there).
I never considered buying POR15 because I'd read that it's difficult to apply, craps out if exposed to UV light, can't be painted over well, and contains isocyanates (which will give you cancer if you inhale them, even through a filter mask). The previous owner applied it to the trunk of that same New Yorker though. It's done OK, but there are places where it's bubbling. I've chopped into the part I painted with Corroless with a cutting wheel, and it's been sitting outside on a body dolly for over a year, and the Corroless still hasn't rusted even a little. It's amazing stuff.
I doubt you'd need a gallon unless you're doing like a whole truck box (maybe not even then), or if you're spraying it instead of brushing/rolling it on. It's worth it though, I'm completely confident it'll NEVER rust again. All you've gotta do is scrape off the loose rust and wash the surface.
I bought a '55 New Yorker years ago that had rotten floors under the carpet. I prepped both sides of the floor by using a wire cup brush on the angle grinder and degreasing/cleaning, then did one side with Corroless and one side with Rustoleum. A couple months later I got to test it REALLY well when I broke my collarbone, and had to drive the New Yorker in the winter salt, since my daily driver was a manual-shift, manual-steering Dodge truck and the New Yorker was power automatic everything.
It got to the point of big salt deposits being left on the painted floor every day, and the Corroless never let any rust past it AT ALL. Which was absolutely amazing, I was scraping my boots on it all the time too. The Rustoleum didn't do very well at all (I only use it for surfaces that are just barely rusty and it does OK there).
I never considered buying POR15 because I'd read that it's difficult to apply, craps out if exposed to UV light, can't be painted over well, and contains isocyanates (which will give you cancer if you inhale them, even through a filter mask). The previous owner applied it to the trunk of that same New Yorker though. It's done OK, but there are places where it's bubbling. I've chopped into the part I painted with Corroless with a cutting wheel, and it's been sitting outside on a body dolly for over a year, and the Corroless still hasn't rusted even a little. It's amazing stuff.
I doubt you'd need a gallon unless you're doing like a whole truck box (maybe not even then), or if you're spraying it instead of brushing/rolling it on. It's worth it though, I'm completely confident it'll NEVER rust again. All you've gotta do is scrape off the loose rust and wash the surface.
#9
I don't really care if it is a moisture cure eurothane or a...? . I doubt if anything will keep rust at bay forever. I just know that it has worked well for me in the real world on my junk. I will say though...pass on the POR 15 and try another.
#10
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I just finished putting on new 5/8" u bolts, on the front and rear axles of my 93 W250. I used a small POR 15 kit to treat the axle ends, before I put the u bolts on. I figured now would be the time to treat these areas, as it would be harder to get paint in some areas, after the u bolts were on. I plan to paint the rest of the axles when I get a chance. As mentioned, the POR 15 is time consuming to apply. You first have to use their cleaner, then their etch, then the POR 15 paint, and then a POR 15 chassis paint (the POR 15 basic paint in not UV resistant, and will chalk after a while. The Chassis top coat prevents the chalking). Bottom line, POR 15 is not cheap, time consuming to apply, and will bubble. It seems to hold up fairly well. I have used Eastwood's Extreme epoxy and am satisfied with it. I just tried their encapsulator paint, and am impressed so far. I just came across a company called KBS Coatings, out of Valparaiso IN, which sells basically the same product as POR 15 for a few bucks less. HTH!
#11
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My experience with POR-15...........
The stuff is somewhat tough, but prepwork needs to be flawless for it to adhere properly. My other hobby is restoring muscle cars and I have used many POR-15 products before. The engine paint kit worked well and seems to hold up. I used the POR-15 exhaust manifold paint.......disappointing, the rust came through over the winter while the car sat in an uninsulated garage. The general POR-15 I have used in the trunk areas and on vehicle floorboards.........no matter how well I cleaned it and used the appropriate solvents, rust somehow made it's way through. This product does go a long ways when applied by brush and leaves a nice finish, but the surface better be prepped perfectly or you will be upset at the results. I had a friend apply it to his custom bumper (97' Ram CTD) and the sun baked the paint off within a year. He applied it again with UV top coat and it seemed to last longer.......but eventually started peeling off. Perhaps something better is out there on the market?
The stuff is somewhat tough, but prepwork needs to be flawless for it to adhere properly. My other hobby is restoring muscle cars and I have used many POR-15 products before. The engine paint kit worked well and seems to hold up. I used the POR-15 exhaust manifold paint.......disappointing, the rust came through over the winter while the car sat in an uninsulated garage. The general POR-15 I have used in the trunk areas and on vehicle floorboards.........no matter how well I cleaned it and used the appropriate solvents, rust somehow made it's way through. This product does go a long ways when applied by brush and leaves a nice finish, but the surface better be prepped perfectly or you will be upset at the results. I had a friend apply it to his custom bumper (97' Ram CTD) and the sun baked the paint off within a year. He applied it again with UV top coat and it seemed to last longer.......but eventually started peeling off. Perhaps something better is out there on the market?
#12
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I've used POR15 and Eastwoods and I like Eastwoods better. Maybe the same stuff and the rust or prep was different I don't know. I think both need to be top-coated for UV stabilization.
I'll try and check the can and get the details.
I'll try and check the can and get the details.
#13
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don't buy the gallon unless you are planning on using it all in about 3 weeks. once the can is open it has a shelf life. Maybe 6 months in the fridge. Quarts are the way to go. I used some on the cuda and its like cement. I used some on my old civic and it rusted thru in a month. It needs a rough surface to work good. Its worth it but I'm sure there are plenty of other products that do the same.
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As mentioned, the POR 15 is time consuming to apply. You first have to use their cleaner, then their etch, then the POR 15 paint, and then a POR 15 chassis paint (the POR 15 basic paint in not UV resistant, and will chalk after a while. The Chassis top coat prevents the chalking). Bottom line, POR 15 is not cheap, time consuming to apply, and will bubble.