I keep getting the filler rod stuck in the pool, cant figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I'm using a 200A air cooled Weldcraft torch DCEN, 3/32 collette & tungsten (2% red band), got the machine set on 100A , #8 cup, & my gas (argon) set to 20. What am I doing wrong? I am holding the filler rod 15* like I read that I'm supposed to but I can get the rod dipped in and out about 3/4 times and it always ends up getting stuck in the pool. I cant figure it out.

 

Sounds like you need to run more heat or your pulling the tungsten away when you drop the filler rod in and it cools off. How thick and what kind of material are you welding?

 

I would agree. If you dont have enough heat then when you present the cool filler metal it will cool the puddle and stick. Also if your filler is too large for the width of bead you are running it will stick. All it is, is practice. Also the main thing I tell every new TIG welder in school is to make sure you are comfortable before you start welding. Run the torch over your work like running a mock bead to make sure when you get to any given point you are not out of position or trying too hard to manipulate your torch or filler to make it work. Dont set the machine so that you have to give it full pedal. Leave yourself at least 15-20% of power so that you can use it if needed. Good luck and dont give up. Are you welding aluminum or steel?

 

I,m just laying (trying to anyway) some stringers on 1/16 mild steel.

Thanks, I dont have a pedal but also dont know if the machine I'm using is just old and dosent make the power the dials say. Its a diesel Lincoln stick machine & the lowest setting is 90 on the big incriment side and the fine adjustment I have set to 10.

Thanks both you guys for the help I can use it.

 

Are you having to drag the tunsgten across the metal to start the arc? Does the torch have a rheostat on the handle?

 

Yes I'm scratch starting, its not hard to start an arc now that I have done it a lot that way. My torch has 1 **** and its a gas valve, do some torches have a **** on them to turn down the power?

 

Rest the cup on the metal and then tip it so that the tungsten will contact the metal. This will make for an easier and more controlled start. Then start to learn how to walk the cup. That **** on the torch should also control heat.

 

Thanks for the advice, can you explain some techniques on walking the cup? I think if I got the hang of wlking the cup with rythem I could make some decent looking welds

 

I have never used a welder that didnt have a rheostat. Without that I dont know how precise a weld you could lay down. Of course, I weld aircraft so it has to be right on.

 

I understand, if anything this will hopefully make a better welder out of me.

 

You should be using a small wire with a base material 1/16" thick, I'd say 1/16". For thin stuff try welding with 1/16" tungsten, It will minimize puddle size.Of course it's all relative to the amperage you are running. I can see how a guy could struggle with something thin with 3/32" tungsten at 100 amps with 3/32" wire. Additionally, your torch angle is just as critical as how you add wire. Your angle should always be the same in relation to the angle of the work. You will get it, just takes time.

 

I can see your point, I kinda thought I might have too big a filler rod. I think I will invest in a smaller collette assy and use a smaller electrode or maybe just use smaller filler rods. Which do you reccomend?

 

I use 3/32 wire and tungsten all the time. I generally weld pressure pipe. I run as low as 70 amps.
To walk the cup you use either your wrist or elbow or both. The principle is like trying to move a large barrel forward by rocking it from side to side. Try it with the machine off a couple of times and then try it in a real weld.

 

Try both, it just takes a little practice. 3/32" tungsten is the best all around size for most of what you would weld. I'm guessing you are using something along the lines of a wp-17 or wp-24 torch, which is a large and heavy torch, especially if watercooled. Try a smaller torch. They are easier to control and manipulate. All that depends on if you want to spend some money. This kinda stuff isn't cheap nowadays. I have always worked for the government and we cannot do any of that walking the cup stuff, so I can't help you there.

 

I recommend 3/32 tung. and 1/16 filler. Unless we have a big gap or are running over 130 amps that is all we use. Material thickness ranging from 16ga. SS plate to 2x3x3/16 rect tube...We do a lot of TIG stainless at work for a french fry plant here and that is all we really use. Our sister company does pipe work, including pressure pipe and the only difference is they sometimes use 3/32 filler and thats only on the big stuff. I find it much easier to lay a nice bead with smaller filler wire and good tight joint...Just my .02.

Also we always use a #6 cup, we have a box of #8 cups in the parts room that have never been opened in 4 years..Every once in awhile we need to grab a #4 though to get in some tighter spaces.

Also, we have many lincoln invertec V275's that we put a TIG torch on and yes the **** on the torch is only a gas ****, we must run a seperate line to the regulator seeing as how it is technically not a "TIG" machine (although the switches to set it are on the front of the machine) it does not control gas flow through the machine, say like on a Syncrowave. The only TIG torch we have for the whole shop that has a rheostat on the torch is on a Syncrowave sitting in the shop.