Assumming it is a Chevrolet, does it have a 4L60E in it. It just baffles me that 9 quarts doesn't make it @ least think about moving.

 

Does any of the wiring on the left side that goes into the "module" have anything to do with the operation of the transmission? The are 2 ports that are glued in from the factory. Is it possible that if the 2 plug ins are not in all the way that it will not communicate with the compueter & allow it to go into gear?

 

Yes, but I think it would also throw codes or a tranny light. One is the neutral safety which would probably keep the starter from starting, and the other is for the solonoids/sensors.

 

Latest Scoop.

We pulled the tranny again yesterday. Pulled the converter & put it back in. Samething, no movement in the drivetrain. Flushed the system out, the fluid was clean. Put the tranny back in a second time, still nothing. Idk, what is going on. Maybe the pump is messed up in it. Guess we are going to pull it again & look at the pump. Can u guys give me an idea what to look for with the pump?

 

Look at the inner and outter gear of the pump, if you see any scoring it's definetly bad. If there is scoring on either gear, the housing probably needs to be replaced as well. There is also a spec'd amount of depth play on the gear, not sure what it is but once the pump is apart you check it with a flat bar across the housing and feeler gauge inbetween that and the drive gears. I'd recommend pressure testing first, a google search shows what ports to test at and when (neutral, reverse, D, etc.) with a gauge capable of 300psi, harbor freight has a inexpensive 300 gauge with adapters. If the pump checks out and no pressure, there is a bad seal somewhere. Quick check is to pull a cooler line while running to check for flow. Should be a strong flow at idle.

Also make sure the TC and the pump gear match up correctly. When I rebuilt my trans (pump is same principal) they sent me the wrong drive gear, so the grooves on the TC would just BARELY catch it. Just another thing that could be overlooked easily.

I'm not very familiar with the workings of a 4l60e valve body, but make sure linkage is set properly and nothing is broken inside. A service manual would be the ticket if you are going to pull it again.

Good luck, I hate auto's when they don't work!

PS for what it's worth, a guy I work with (used to do alot of TH350's and the like) used to run them in reverse with the wheels off the ground to get pressures up. I realize this is with the older hydraulic units, but I wouldn't shy at adding 3 quarts, starting it in neutral for a second then throwing it in reverse on the lift and see if there is any movement.

 

After pulling the tranny 3 times, it was taken back to the rebuilder. 2 days later, went back to pick it up. Turns out that there was a piece of plastic restricting the flow inside. Everything was checked before it was put back in. 8 quarts was added as a "start-up" & went thru the gears with a different result this time. It moved forward & backwards under its own power, SUCCESS! Added 1.5 quarts till it showed full & took it for a drive. Everything worked fine with the exception that it felt like 2nd gear was slipping a little. Brought it back into the shop & the fluid was alittle low. 1/2 of a quarts was added & showed full on the dip stick. All is well with the tranny now.

Next project: the transfer case wants to shift from 2wd to either 4H or 4L when it is at a dead stop. It was doing this prior to the tranny going out. All the sensors were plugged in & its had 2 transfer case switches put in, thinking that was the problem. I know nothing about the electronics in the vehicle, its all greek to me(sort of speak).

There is another issue with the front differential & it maybe related to the transfer case wanting to shift on its own. One thing fixed @ a time.

 

The New process transfer cases that I have worked on (jeeps) have plastic pads on the tips of the shift forks. They can wear out or break off and then there isn't enough "meat" left on the fork to hold it in the gear selected. Is it making any noise? Check the fluid for crud and any bits of plastic.

 

When the vehicle is in park, it shifts on its own. U can hear it shift standing in front of the vehicle. Would I be looking for metal & plastic? My luck, we would have to pull the transfer case out & rebuild that to. Are parts pretty easy to come by?

 

Ok, I thought maybe popping out while driving. You mean you're heraing the electronic shift, right? Most of the GM stuff I've dealt with have a motor on the transfer case that does the shifting and a vaccuum line to engage the front axle. My experiences have been, when the vacuum system goes bad, the front end will want to stay engaged, despite transfer case being in 2wd. This will wear out the shift fork inside the axle housing as well as CV shafts and hubs. Extreme cold weather can also cause the vacuum to disengage the front end while the t-case is selected for 4wd. I have only heard of the shift motor going bad and not engaging the t-case, have not heard of it engaging sporraticly, but could be possible I guess. Any of those symptoms sound familiar? It is push button right? Maybe also check for a TSB on the buttons going bad and grounding out. Depending on how pretty you want the cab, I've used and hear good things from others using the Posi-Lok brand cable that bipasses the vacuum system. I've also seen guys fabricate their own shift lever attached in place of the electric shift motor.