The Forgotten Diner 1/29-2/4
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From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
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From: Isanti, MN
Gotta grab a cupa and get outa here. Looking for the other end of a frozen drain......in the snow covered swamp. 'bout 140 feet from the end I can see.
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,187
Likes: 0
From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
I grad-u-ated frum Claudes skool of tpying....
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: white trash junction
well afernoon all i think what im gonna do is going to involve relays but its not going though the lousy dodge switch or plug oh an the po owner had the plug burn up on him so he extended the wires then soldered them onto the switch an covered them in heatshink ...did he follow the factory an use the right color wires ..NOPE he used one color blue
i was not very nice to be around last night ...even more amped when i had to call a buddy to pick up my wife from work last night... hotwired everything to get to his house then stuffed the truck in his garage rehotwired it this time using fuse's
so we could drive the 25 miles home without burning up.....
i was not very nice to be around last night ...even more amped when i had to call a buddy to pick up my wife from work last night... hotwired everything to get to his house then stuffed the truck in his garage rehotwired it this time using fuse's so we could drive the 25 miles home without burning up.....
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Isanti, MN
When you consider all the functions of the stock switch, it's pretty convenient. You can get away with quick wiring it with plain faston connectors. Just use relays for the headlight circuits. Pick up the headlight wires where they go forward in the engine compartment, and route them to relays there. Cut the wires. The end from the cab(switches) goes to the relay coils. Relay power contacts, supplied by a separate fuse, go to the loads (lights) Otherwise, everything is stock.
You could/should do the same thing with the running/marker/tail light circuit. It doesn't really have that much load, unless you pull a trailer, but is more prone to switch frying shorts. Relays can usually take it long enough to blow a fuse, and are cheaper and easier to replace.
You could/should do the same thing with the running/marker/tail light circuit. It doesn't really have that much load, unless you pull a trailer, but is more prone to switch frying shorts. Relays can usually take it long enough to blow a fuse, and are cheaper and easier to replace.
I grad-u-ated frum Claudes skool of tpying....
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: white trash junction
When you consider all the functions of the stock switch, it's pretty convenient. You can get away with quick wiring it with plain faston connectors. Just use relays for the headlight circuits. Pick up the headlight wires where they go forward in the engine compartment, and route them to relays there. Cut the wires. The end from the cab(switches) goes to the relay coils. Relay power contacts, supplied by a separate fuse, go to the loads (lights) Otherwise, everything is stock.
You could/should do the same thing with the running/marker/tail light circuit. It doesn't really have that much load, unless you pull a trailer, but is more prone to switch frying shorts. Relays can usually take it long enough to blow a fuse, and are cheaper and easier to replace.
You could/should do the same thing with the running/marker/tail light circuit. It doesn't really have that much load, unless you pull a trailer, but is more prone to switch frying shorts. Relays can usually take it long enough to blow a fuse, and are cheaper and easier to replace.
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There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
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From: Texas
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
