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Do I switch oil brands or not?

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Old May 22, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #1  
12valve@heart's Avatar
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From: East Central OK
Question Do I switch oil brands or not?

Without starting an oil brand war, here is my question.

My brother bought a 1997 Chevy Lumina 3.1L sedan from the origianl owner. Now, 3 years later, I bought it from him as a work car. According to the original owner, he always used Pennzoil in it so my brother followed suite.

I never have been a fan of Pennzoil but I have always believed that if a vehicle is raised on a specific brand oil, it's best to stay with that brand lest chemical differences cause unwanted results (unwanted cleaning, acids, etc.). The car has 208K on it and burns no oil and I want at least another 50K out of it. If I change brands, it would be to Mobil 1 synthetic.

Do I stay with Pennzoil or switch to Mobil 1?

No brand-bashers need respond. We all know that the oil that you use is best. I just want opinions about the hazards of switching brands at 208K when it's used one brand all of its life.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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I've heard of some problems with switching from synthetic back to conventional oil in some older cars - something to do with some of the seals shrinking or something like that. But heck, with 208K on (I'm assuming) conventional Pennzoil I'd think just using that and saving some money would be the way to go... Just my opinion...
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Old May 22, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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I've heard that it's not good to switch to synthetics on a high mileage engine.
The end result is usually oil leaks around all the old seals.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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I would have to say if it has 208k on it and don't use oil, I would stick with the pennzoil as it has done a pretty good job.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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From: somewhere in northwestern ohio....Mansfield, Oh
I hate Pennzoil myself but feel changing would be a big mistake and I would just stick with it . Just find some one else to pick it up for you , I would hate to see anyone I know with that oil in my cart . A higher detergent oil would cause you all kinds of problems and would probably end the engines life with in a few miles . If I was going to switch I would first pull the valve cover and see how much sludge was built up under there to cause you problems .
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Old May 22, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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Id just switch to regular mobil 1 dino oil.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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I agree with the other guys. Don't switch to a synthetic, stay with the Penzoil. I'm not a fan of Penzoil myself.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Interestingly. the additive chemistries/formulations of Penzoil itself have probably changed several times over the life of that car. And it appears to have not had any ill effects on it.

The current API oil certifications for spark ignition engines has 1/2 less of the extreme pressure/anti-wear compound ZDDP than older formulations did. This was done to help promote a healthier catalytic converter life, especially on vehicles with over 150,000 miles on them. The result isn't any less quality, rather manufacturer's now have reformulated, forced to use more expensive EP/AW additives to make up for the loss of ZDDP. And of course, that cost is passed onto the consumer.

So in the chemistry world, changing brands should not have any significant impact. However, as stated, and based on my own experience, a high mileage engine is more than likely going to leak oil if given a diet of full synthetic, if it's been run on dino up to that point. It may not be cost effective in this car.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Ditch the Pennzoil. Oil formulations are constantly changing, and there's no logical reason to stick with one brand all the time.

It's the shadetree mechanic version of an old wives tale....pure fiction.

jh
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Old May 22, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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IMO, esp for a beater/work car use whatever is cheeep. These days just about all major brand oil is good stuff. I would`nt do the synth only because it`s sooo much $$$. Use a good 10w30 and call it done. I WOULD be leery about the intake gaskets on that 3.1 tho, they do have a history of puking coolant into the engine, I had a Lumina APV (van) with a 3.4(same engine) that did it. Not a real big deal but something to be on the lookout for, esp if it has death-cool in it.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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One of the guys here at work runs the old 79 cent a quart Wolfshead (use to be that) in his drag car with a 440 in it turning 8800 rpums all the time. Stay with what has worked to this point, why change now?
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:23 PM
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From: Va Beach
Had to redo the intake gasket on the wifes Grand Am with the 3.1L. Had to pull it all the way down and rebuild it just to get the crap out of the block at 74,995 miles. Extended warrenty that ran out at 75k didnt want to cover fixing it. Been a good car since and have rolled up another 42k since at 25-28 MPG.

I would avoid the cheap oil from places like advance. It still seems to sludge up. I have read that it has less detergents in it. I would also stick with the cheap penzoil as it has worked well this long but any name brand should do ya fine.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Well, guess I'll stick with Pennzoil even though it hurts me to buy it. On the positive side, my brother used Prolong additive in the car and I plan to do the same. Hopefully that and a 3K oil change interval will help keep the engine clean.

OfftoWallyworldtobuyPennzoilJay
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Old May 23, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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You could save some money and skip the Prolong.
From the Federal Trade Commission:

http://www.ftc.gov/os/caselist/c3906.htm

IT IS ORDERED that respondent, directly or through any corporation, subsidiary, division, or other device, in connection with the labeling, advertising, promotion, offering for sale, sale, or distribution of Prolong Engine Treatment Concentrate or any other product for use in a motor vehicle, in or affecting commerce, shall not make any representation, in any manner, expressly or by implication, that:

a. Compared to motor oil alone, use of such product:

(1) Reduces engine wear at start-up; or

(2) Extends the duration of engine life,

under any or all circumstances or conditions or by any quantitative figure, unless, at the time the representation is made, respondent possesses and relies upon competent and reliable scientific evidence that substantiates the representation.

b. Use of such product:

(1) Reduces corrosion in engines; or

(2) Protects against engine breakdowns,

under any or all circumstances or conditions or by any quantitative figure, unless, at the time the representation is made, respondent possesses and relies upon competent and reliable scientific evidence that substantiates the representation.

c. Benefits that may be achieved through use of such product in race cars or under racing conditions will be achieved in ordinary automobiles in conventional use,

unless, at the time the representation is made, respondent possesses and relies upon competent and reliable scientific evidence that substantiates the representation.

Much more on the link
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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From: East Central OK
I've seen that FTC report and I don't buy the idea of draining the oil and then driving the vehicle but I have first hand knowledge of two instances with separate vehicles in the 10+ years that I've been using it where I can't explain why the vehicle kept running except that the Prolong had to have helped. I also had a motor rebuilt (freshened up while it was out) that had been using Prolong and the machinest commented about how hard it was to get the film off. He had to run it thru his cleaner 2-3 times to get all of the film off.

Were they totally up-front in their advertising, probably not. Is there some value to the product, I think so but don't buy the retail pack, buy the bulk and measure it by the ounce. Much more economical.

FWIW, I use Power-Up in my Dodge and Prolong in everything else.
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