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Dist frozen.HELP

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Old May 15, 2004 | 06:18 AM
  #1  
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From: Ila georgia
Dist frozen.HELP

1985 Chevy Caprice Classis.206k and spark knocks.Timing should be 0 nd it is 4 degrees high.Went to adjust.DIST.is frozen and won't move.Any suggestions?????
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Old May 15, 2004 | 06:28 AM
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Get a can of this stuff and spray a little around the base of the distrubutor.
Let it sit for an hour or so, then try to move it back and forth, spraying a little more occasionally, untill it moves freely again
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Old May 15, 2004 | 06:30 AM
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From: Ila georgia
The "stuff" didn't show up! Like PP BLASTER? I thought of that.Thanks for your help.If I got to I'll break the dist and put a reman in it.Just worried about any parts that may not remove?
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Old May 15, 2004 | 06:48 AM
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There isn't a hidden bolt that might be holding the thing tight is there ? I have been known to overlook things like that when I am in a hurry and ended up paying for not paying attention.

PISTOL
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Old May 15, 2004 | 07:09 AM
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HMMM, yeah PB Blaster.

(don't know what happened with the pic.)
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Old May 15, 2004 | 07:22 AM
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Originally posted by PistolWhipt
There isn't a hidden bolt that might be holding the thing tight is there ? I have been known to overlook things like that when I am in a hurry and ended up paying for not paying attention.

PISTOL
Nope, only one bolt. I don't know if spraying anything from the outside will free it, with that kind of miles it's probably locked in with sludge and varnish.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 07:26 AM
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If you are patient and give it a dose of "free up" fluid a couple of times a day for a few days and let it seep past the o ring then it will probably move. If you have a feel for that stuff you will know how much pressure to put on it so you don't break it. Work it back and forth GENTLY and you should be able to get it to move. Some gentle taps with a hammer at the base will also aid in freeing it up. Have done this many times with Fords (dist on front of engine) and have always got them to move.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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From: Little Switzerland NC
Use PB blaster let sit then use a pipe wrench or strap wrench on it very carefuly.If needed tap with a hammer.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 03:46 PM
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Hook a truck to it and pull. If you can, maybe some simple green squirted up inside of it would help. If there's any sludge and crud in there.
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Old May 15, 2004 | 04:12 PM
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You gotta love galvanic corrosion. It's the iron and aluminum reacting with each other. PB Blaster should help... I love that stuff!
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Old May 15, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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After rereading this, most of run better about 4 advanced.
I look at the possibility of it being a carbon problem. Try a cleaner first!!
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Old May 16, 2004 | 03:57 AM
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From: Ila georgia
Been through decarboning it and egr and a heat range colder plug.Its BAD right before the thermostat opens?
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Old May 16, 2004 | 10:40 AM
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I'd try a water temp gauge in the head to see what temp it really is before the therm opens. This shouldn't be the hottest it gets.
Has the therm been replaced? I'd sduggest the cooler t-stat anyway. Try to find a 185 or use the 280.
That suggestion may get flamed but it is for trouble shooting purposes.
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Old May 16, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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From: Ila georgia
Yes,been through all that and more(206k!!)any way thanks for all the advice.Used PB BLASTER and some more GRUNT on the the dist.and got it to move.Set timing and hot engine almost a 100% improvement! Well see during warmup stage now.Seemms like right before thermostat opens it was way bad.Maybe a slow 02??It is a computer carb.engine with 02 etc.Has been on Amsoil 10w30 since 86k.Just did a timing chain and it runs good except for spark knock.
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Old May 16, 2004 | 06:30 PM
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Real motors do KNOCK !!!
When you did the timing chain, did you advance the cam timing or leave it stock/retarded?
She will run better advanced 8 degrees from the stock setting and maybe 4 more. 12 total.
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