Thanks for checking the thread.

I have a trailer axle that is 1 3/4 inches thick (one and a three quarters). It is a square axle, solid steel. It is from an old boat trailer that is now going to be used for off road use only. I will be towing it with my atv for hauling firewood out of the woods. It is currently 66 inches in length and I want to reduce it to 48 inches.

My cutting tools available are a sawzall and an electric hand held grinder/cut off saw (4 1/2 inch). I only have an arc welder to join it back together.

Which tool would you use to cut it? I was thinking the ginder/cutter, but not sure. I had plannned on taking a chunk out of the middle, joining the cut pieces cut end to cut end, leaving a slight gap, and then trying to fill that gap with weld.

I also thought about using 1/2 inch thick stock over the cut (now welded part) and welding that to the axle on all 4 sides, filling and grinding as I go along so that the cut is totally covered by the 1/2 inch stock. I was thinking about 6 inches in length on the 1/2 inch stock.

Am I on the right track? Would I be better with the sawzall and lots of oil on the blade to make the cut? Should I even bother with trying to leave a gap in the cut ends and fill with weld? What rods would be best (ac only). Not to worried about looks, just strength as I plan on working the snot out of it. Thanks, KD

 

myself, i would get a metal blade for a skillsaw or a compound/mitre saw, i would also try to find square tubing with a inside diam the same diam as the outside of what you are cutting , insert the cut peices inside the new then weld.

 

I would recomend checking around for a chop saw to cut it with. Nock out a chunk from the middle to get you to the lenth you want. Use a piece of square stock that will let the axles slide into snugly. prep the square stock with multiple holes so the once you weld the ends of the stock to the tubes you can weld the axles to the square stock using the holes you drilled. i would think that 66 inches would be good for a atv since it would track better and not be as tippy off road. 4 foot is not that wide of a track on a trailer and will jump around a bit more off road.

 

I was thinking 48 so I would be narrow to get in and around some thick woods. I see your point about it being less stable, never thought of that.

Also wanted it smaller so it would fit in my utility trailer to haul back and forth to the property/home. Trying to make it so I can fairly easily get it in and out of the trailer by myself. The tongue will be removable using hitch pins, and I even thought about doing the same with the axle. It will be rigid mounted (the axle) to the deck, no springs.

I wanted to make it so the deck would come off of the axle by removing a few bolts or pins, then I could easily pick up the three pieces (axle, deck, and tongue) and put it in the utility trailer with the atv. Thanks KD

 

well if it's only off road , and slow (under 5mph) why not use telescopic tube stock for the axle , and use reciever pins , and you could go from 48wide to 60wide??

 

you can get a metal blade for your sawzall. I have done this before, that is what I use on my race car if I get into a fender bender during a race, and need to make a quick removal of something that may be rubbing my tire...

Then if you didn't hold it straight, you can grind it back flat enough...

 

If you got desperate you could pump up the juice on the welder and blow it apart with that then grind them flat. Also if you didn't have any square tube to slip the cut ends into i would bevel the edges and weld the snot out of it. Also if you were to do it that way (the cheeeeep way) it would be stronger to cut two sections out, one on each side near the spring because the max stress is in the middle of the axle. kind of like this [==/=====/==] instead of [======/======]

 

Cutting torch--------someome near you has got to have one, 30 second job

 

True but sometimes you get desperate......have to do stuff McGyver style! I once had to make a test light out of some spare wire and a 194 bulb.....my friend was shocked and amazed.

 

The sawzall will cut it ,just takes time and a few blades. If you opt to weld it, I would bevel both ends. You can also cut the bevel when you start cutting with the sawzall. When you weld it you need to clean all the slag from the weld after each pass. I would use 1/8 7018. You will also need to tack it or clamp it to something sturdy to minimize it bowing when you weld it. Make a couple of passes and let it cool a few minutes between passes will help. If its cold where you are, preheat it before you start welding will help prevent cracking.

 

If its truely solid (and it would be HEAVY), cut it on a 45. cut the middle out at and opposite 45. put the two points together and weld string beads over it until you fill in the gap.
Mostlikely its square tubing in which case, you could probably grind a 45 on each wall or put a slug inside to add strength. Either way, you want your weldment to be ATLEAST as thick as your base metal.

 

Now there is a first, and a fine example of civility. In the many years/ months/ 3500+ posts, and at least 10,000 threads read, this is a first for me. We can all take a lesson from this example and remember to use please and thanks you appropriately.

I, for one, am adding a positive response to the reputation of this DTRonian. He or she sets a fine example for us all.

 

i bought these recip saw blades at walmart called piranah (sp?) or shark, or something like that. Those things can cut, and cut fast. They were like $5 for 2 blades. I was cutting 1" solid square bar like it was wood.

If you have to use a sawzall, i'd check into these blades.

 

I would be very surprised of it really is a solid square. It would weight a ton.

Tractor supply sells bolt on axles that are not very expensive. You can even get brakes. It would be an easy swap.

 

Yes, now that I think about it, it is probably not solid.

Geico, now I'm gonna feel funny saying thanks again for all the responses, but thanks for the responses and the kind words. There are many on this board that are better people than I.

I even had a generous offer from a fellow member who is a welder to do it for me. Now there's an example of good people. Heck, I have nothing but positives to say for the members here. I have recieved parts from fellow members (for free!) and not even had to pay for shipping (old used spare parts, small stuff), but still it's the gesture/consideration that impresses me!

Getting back to the axle. I'm gonna just go for broke and cut it tommorrow. I'll pick up a few sawzall blades and some 7018 rods on my way home from work. Once I get it cut, I'll know more, but, I found a piece of square tube that will fit over the axle/cut, and I probably have something for a slug, so I will do both. Of course beveling my cuts and cleaning the slag as I go.

Still trying to decide on size (width). I don't want it to be tippy, but, I'm just gonna lay 6 ft lengths of timber on them, a few straps, haul them out of the woods to my truck, cut them to burn length, and load the cut rounds into the truck bed, the atv and 3 piece trailer will go into a utility trailer, and way I go.

I'll let you know what I find, KD