I was thinking any heat that could pass thru the hole around the pipe would be a good thing....foam would block that....If the pipe is on external wall the cold is traped in the wall around the pipes an air passage on the inside around them might help...I might be confused as its early ...

 

Only heat that would be loss to the wall cavity comes from the hot water line.......probably a max of 160 degrees.........most likely not enough to be combustible........may protect the cold water line from freezing. THe two lines you speak of are most likely hot and cold water lines. Very common in DFW area to have lines in exterior wall under a window giving you a view from the kitchen to the outside. If you are concerned about the heat, you could always sleeve the hot pipe and fill the void around it with either fire resistant caulk or mineral wool.

 

Our kitchen sink is like that. We do have 2x6 exterior walls, with NuWool insulation, housewrap and all brick. I have never felt a draft anywhere, except below 1 door occasionaly. But I think I have that fixed now.

 

During extreme cold weather, leave a cabinet door open at night or during the day wherever you have a faucet, ie kitchen sink, vanities, laundry cabinets etc. to let the room heat in.

Running pipes up exterior walls is a construction practice that is ok except in the rare instances where the freeze event is constant, like Alaska and the extreme climate regions, otherwise its fine for years and years until we get an abnormally cold event like the one hitting us right now.

You can also crack the faucets open to a dribble to keep earth warm water running thru them to kee from freezing.

This is an abnormal weather cycle, adapt to it this year and maybe for a couple more and plan ahead and you can avoid a lot of these freeze problems in your homes and buildings.

 

I always had a cool spot around the front door,
installed one of these and made a huge difference:
http://www.larsondoors.com/storm_doors/products/236_sx
The install was more involved than I thought but if I can do it anyone can

 

Your cabinets are lifted off the floor so they can be leveled during installation. They were most likely built in a shop and brought onto the sight. There's probably a hump in the slab somewhere in the kitchen that caused them to be raised that far to obtain a level counter. I know as I've done cabinetry for 30 years plus now. There should have been a moulding already ran around the base to close that gap. it usually is not done when the cabs are installed because the finished floor is not there yet. Shoe moulding is what would go there.