The toilet in my brother's basement is set up kind of like that, the pipe just ends at floor level and the toilet is bolted to lead anchors. I think you need a thicker wax ring, get the big fat one or do like Tom said and stack a couple of them. The standard thickness rings are designed to seal to a flange that is flush with the floor, not below it.

 

Yup, try stacking two rings together. You haven't by chance had to use a snake on that toilet lately have you? Never had it happen, but I can see the slight chance of cracking the internal trap or something and letting water get out that way.

I'd try the stacked rings like mentioned above.

Ain't plumbing fun??? Sorry, been there before.

Ed

 

STOP!!!! if you have just the pipe sticking there, go to a plumbing supply house and get a two piece fitting that fits in the pipe which has a rubber sealing ring and usually three or four bolts, when you tighten the bolts it squeezes the pieces together and seals the fitting to the pipe, THEN you can get the good wax flange with the rubber guide and install your toilet correctly.
if you have the flange, but it is under the concrete, (should be around 3/8" above floor level) they make a closet flange extension, you can stack them to get the right height then put the wax ring on. hope this helps. (yes i am a plumber amongst other things)

 

What is this device called so I know what to look for at the hardware store? I will try to get some pics of the setup, I figure that would help a lot.

 

NOW YA DONE IT i had to go lookin thru books, i found it in the oatey catalog, one is called twist-n-set flange, the other is cast iron flange replacement. the twist one has three models depending on what pipe it is going into,
#43651 for PVC (white plastic)
#43650 for ABS (black plastic)
#43653 for cast iron

well better yet, go to this link
http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/sh...tg=11&subctg=3

hope this helps.

 

BTW the cast iron flange ones are the ones i prefer, easire to get the thing straight with the wall.

 

Yea, cast flanges are better, but the local hardware store might have the repair flange in PVC. I like the "twist-n-set" too. Just make sure you anchor the flange real good before you put the water closet back. BTW, I am a licensed plumber too.
Tom

 

So let me get this right, I should install the twist n lock, then use a wax ring (or 2), then put the toilet on right? That should cure it right?

More info on the toilet:

The drain pipe in the floor is cast iron (definitly not plastic). It was probably flush with the floor, but before we moved in the house the flooring was changed to stone tile.

Sherod - I have never had to snake the toilet before so I don't think it is cracked.

Thanks guys, y'all are a great help.

 

One important tip yall forgot to give was....."DON'T CHEW YOUR FINGERNAILS" after doing plumbing work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Gary

 

AWWW thats just the appetizers before din din!!!

 

Also remember Hot's on the left cold is on the right and turd's won't run up hill most important payday is Thursday.

Now if the stone floor is comming loose? then clear all the loose stuff and you can use a little floor stone and trowel the floor out smooth. also a closet flange extention can be used as mentioned in earlier replies. the bottom line is the more smooth a flat the floor is will give you the better seal.

 

I concurr on putting on an adaptor and getting the flange up to floor level. Even if your lucky enuff to rig it to stay dry, you still risk leaking the gasses into a non-ventelated basement. While your at it, make sure your tank isn't leaking down the back. It's better to seal it with the toilet out, and if it was leaking, the puddle may have been hidden by the other water.