A little back-ground :

I have been running big tractors and big bush-hogs ever since I was knee high.

Every last one has had two-stage clutches and "LIVE" PTO.

In regards to my recently new-to-me Mitsubishi R2500 tractor described here :

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t250501.html


Quite by chance, I stumbled upon a King-Kutter L-48-40-XB 4-foot "bush-hog" (rotary brush-cutter/mower) that was used for half-a-day by the original owner; this unit is just the right size for my little grass-hopper-sized tractor. (it was too big for his Kubota)


My situation :

When I have the PTO/mower engaged and de-press the clutch pedal, the momentum of the blade drives the rear wheels of the tractor, and could shove me over a cliff or through the fence.

It seems like I remember seeing some kind of ratcheting device that couples to the PTO shaft that is supposed to prevent this.

Does anyone know anything or had any experience with such a gizmo ??


My PTO-shaft is standard size.Is this what I need ??

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/...g=true&cFlag=1





The main reason I bought this tractor is on account of my little 7-acre home-place being about 15-miles from the big farm and all the big tractors and equipment, and it is such a hassle to always be moving stuff back and forth.

Thanks.

 

Yep, that will work. I have a very small Yanmar tractor and a little Howse bush hog, and if I don't have the overrunning clutch on it'll do the same thing where the bush hog will continue to drive the transmission even when the clutch is pressed. It makes a huge difference. I'm not sure about the size though - it might be a good idea to measure it before you go buy one.

 

Well, I happened to remember that one of the few things we still have in this little one-light town is a used tractor and implement dealer who also stocks some new odds and ends of necessary agricultural paraphanalia.

I gave him a call and $42 later I have a PTO over-running clutch gizmo; a whole lot closer than TSC; $25 cheaper, and no tax.

Now, back out in the heat to put this new toy on and see if I wasted my money on the bush-hog.

 

This PTO-shaft has a cute aggravating plastic sleeve with big plastic belled ends over the universals.

Attached at each end of this sleeve are cute little shiny chains with snaps.

The steel inner driven shaft can easily turn independent of the plastic sleeve.

What is the proper thing to do with these cute little chains/snaps when hooked to the tractor ??

Thanks.

 

You would just need to hook them onto a fixed point to prevent rotation of the plastic shield. Just make sure you have enough slack so that you don't pull the chain when raising/lowering.

Or you can just not hook it up and the shield will rotate. Not the safest, but better than no shield.

 

If you can attach the chains to some point on the mower rather than the hitch of the tractor, like around the "A" frame that goes up to the top link on the 3pt that way you won't bust the chain lowering and raising the mower.

Keeping the shield stationary is crucial to proper protection of the shield and preventing yourself or another obgect from wrapping up in the shaft.

 

I got my $42 over-running clutch gizmo attached.

Seeing as how all the roll-pin does is hold it on the splines, and the pin is a drive in fit, I instead cut the head off of a 1/4" bolt of the proper length and used that instead.

The 1/4" bolt/pin is a fall-in/fall-out fit, thus making things a lot easier when I have to remove the over-run unit to install the belly-mower pulley.

That over-running gizmo is sure the trick; I wouldn't be shoved through my new fence one time for $42.

I just fastened those sleeve chains around the A-frame and nothing flew apart as I spent the evening bush-hogging.

When time allows, I am gonna add some neat little rings to connect those chains to.

Four-foot cut, maybe an actual three-foot per pass, sure is different from walking through there taking ten-foot at a time, let alone fifteen to twenty, but it is getting the job done; sort of like whittling out a wooden Indian with a dull knife.

 

Cut the aggravating little buggar off. When it is off, wrap the cute little chains around it and deposit in your local land fill!!!!

 

I guess that is why, although I have been using tractors and PTO-driven implements ever since I was in diapers, that I had no idea what to do with those chains.

I know one thing for certain; it is nigh impossible to grease that universal that is closest to the bush-hog, and completely impossible to see when grease squirts out all four cups.

 

Here is a good explanation of why one needs an over-running PTO-clutch on older or smaller tractors.

Read the section titled Transmission Driven PTO :

It won't let me link straight to the page.

Clink "INFO", then click "Tractor Power Take Off"

http://www.tractorsmart.com/enter.htm


I thought I would put this here for those who might run into the situation themselves sometime.

 

I work at Schulte Industies and we make rotary cutters from 6 to 42 feet long. The only thing you have to worry about with that syle of over running clutch is it will change the length of your pto shaft. If you go through a ditch or drive up and down a drive way make sure your pto shaft does not bottom out. Is your cutter a 3 pt hich mount or trail behind that will make a difference to. As for the saftey chains on the drives I would take them off. All the machines we sell in canada and the usa have those nice little chains removed from the factory. The only time they are on a machine is if they are shipped overseas. the reason we take them off is that most of the shielding has a plastic bearing near the yokes if they are chained they will start to heat up and melt and them your shielding will fly apart.

 

I work at Schulte Industies and we make rotary cutters from 6 to 42 feet long. The only thing you have to worry about with that syle of over running clutch is it will change the length of your pto shaft. If you go through a ditch or drive up and down a drive way make sure your pto shaft does not bottom out. Is your cutter a 3 pt hich mount or trail behind that will make a difference to. As for the saftey chains on the drives I would take them off. All the machines we sell in canada and the usa have those nice little chains removed from the factory. The only time they are on a machine is if they are shipped overseas. the reason we take them off is that most of the shielding has a plastic bearing near the yokes if they are chained they will start to heat up and melt and them your shielding will fly apart.

 

That makes sense about the plastic shield.

Plastic turning against plastic, I sort of figured it's life-span could not be long.

I have done about three days worth of bush-hogging that should have been done four months ago, all with the chains hooked and the plastic shield held still against the rotation of the shaft.

I could sure hear it screaming in protest.

I am gonna hang the chains on the shop wall and let the shield rotate with the shaft; if someone falls down in amongst it, that shield rotating is gonna be the least of their worries anyway.

Thanks for enlightening me.

 

Be careful, I am fairly certain you know why I told you to cut the stupid thing off.....


Still have the bump on the back of my head to prove it!!!!!

 

To some extent or the other, everybody around here farms.

I had never given it a thought before, but I am all the time seeing those plastic guards tossed in the dumpster behind the shop or laying loose in the back of someones truck.

I seldom see one actually on a piece of equipment.