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Building a new garage

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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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From: Southwest VA
Building a new garage

Well, time for a big investment. Never had a garage before, always been cardboard and wet grass for me. I am going to buy a 24 x 28 kit from a local supplier. Supposed to be a complete kit. My question is will a 7x9 garage door be tall enough for the Ram? The stud walls are 92 5/8 standard height so I don't know if I could even go to a 8 foot door without major cost of varying from the kit. Any suggestions and tips gladly accepted. Hopefully the concrete will be getting poured in a couple of weeks.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
The Rams seem to just squeak through with stock tires and no lift, or maybe with 315s and no lift.

Because of the width you can't leave it half way in and work on it very well. My new garage will have 10 X 10 doors because I'm tired of barely getting through. The depth is important too. If stuff is stored in front of it you won't get in all the way or at least won't walk by it with the garage door closed.

My current garage is more of a shop than a parking place and my Dodge lives outside

John
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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I put a 10x10 roll up on mine and I'm sure glad I did. I think the door was @ $500 installed. One thing you might want to do on the slab is put a drain in it. I have a piece of 6" I beam with a hoist on it with a drain underneath. I just ran it outside and it runs on the ground...Perfect for cleaning deer. Plan on putting a bathroom in it too. Put your wiring in conduit, looks good and the rats won't get in it. Build it bigger than you think you'll need because it won't take you long to out grow.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Another possibility if you are building it yourself would be to lay a couple rows of blocks to get a 10' cieling Ht.......... Personally I lived with one of those garages for years and I never looked back.

BTW, You will be higher than 8' if you pour at least a 4" ratwall and the double plate it.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Originally Posted by patdaly
Another possibility if you are building it yourself would be to lay a couple rows of blocks to get a 10' cieling Ht.......... Personally I lived with one of those garages for years and I never looked back.

BTW, You will be higher than 8' if you pour at least a 4" ratwall and the double plate it.
That's a great way to modify a prefab building. Good Idea.

And if you really want to do it right and plan to work on the truck, put radiant tubing in before the pour. It's an easy add that goes in right before the pour. Later you can heat the floor and life will be good.

John
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Get an 8x9 door. The "kit" is just a list of items that they will sell you as a bundle. You can upgrade to a bigger door just for the diff in cost. I have an 02 2500 with 33/12.50/17's and the 2 inch leveling kit. It does fit in a regular door, buy ever so closely. I have a 8x9 door where I park my truck and it is better for the peace of mind. By the way congrats on the new doghouse. I built mine 7 years ago and it is a 30x70 attached.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Wetspirit
My current garage is more of a shop than a parking place and my Dodge lives outside

John
me too......
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 07:53 AM
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Wetspirit has a good point, add the PEX tubing now even if you don't think you will use it.

For some stupid reason I forgot about mine until the day of the pour........ dummy....
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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Thanks guys..I am seriously thinking about going from std. stud walls to 10' walls to accomodate the 8' tall door. Decisions, decisions...
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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I measured my trucks height after the stack install for parking garages and with the 33" tires it stands 6' 8" to the top of the stacks.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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The little rubber weather seal on the bottom of my 7x9 door drags across the roof of my truck when I pull it in. I'm all stock with 295s.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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make the door wider......

We shoehorned our truck back under the leanto shed roof next to the shop building to do the recent GSK etc work - and ten feet side was pretty doggone tight for a 3500 with real mirrors....

If I was going to build another building with a vehicle door, I'd make the door 12 feet wide and at least 12 high - am sick and tired of shoe horns and my neck is getting stiffer with age!
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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I don't know how much you paid for your kit, but did you look into a pole barn?
My 30x60 was $22K and a 30x40 is about $13K.
Then $6800 for the cement. It has a 15' peak and is enough room for my #10K lift.

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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Now that is nice! A lift...wow...A pole barn doesn't fall within zoning, and niether does a manufactured steel building. Pretty much has to be stick built to pass inspection. The kit is pretty darn complete and for 24 x 28 it comes in at about $4800 minus concrete/foundation of course. I am going to ask for a variance from the package from 92 5/8" to 120" and from 9x7 to 9x8 doors. I know this will affect the total vinyl siding and sheathing, but I figure less than $500 difference. I think I can talk them down by that much.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by scottsjeeprolet
I don't know how much you paid for your kit, but did you look into a pole barn?
My 30x60 was $22K and a 30x40 is about $13K.
Then $6800 for the cement. It has a 15' peak and is enough room for my #10K lift.

That's what I'm talking about. I plan on building a shop in the next couple of years. It's even been pre-approved by the Boss. What size are your doors and what is the side wall height? Mine will only be a 2 bay. I plan on a 30 X 40 with a 10 foot overhang on the back. I also plan on putting in a lift. Mine will either be pole barn or all steel. I am leaning towards the all steel mainly due to no post rot and reduced fire hazard when welding & burning. Great looking shop.
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