^^^Agreed, thats impossible for me, I pull trailers all week long. Thats why mine is greased now. And it just may save me one day....

 

Bought a all aluminum hd receiver leave mine in year round going on five years now if I took it out now I would probably break my neck as I use it as a step when coming out of the back of the truck.

 

If you try to pull it out with the truck and the hitch is tied to a tree, I'll probably see you on "Americas Funniest Home Videos" when you pull the tree down onto your truck. Get some B'Laster Penetrant like another poster said. Get a come along and tie one end to the tree. Make sure the retaining pin is OUT of the receiver (you did do that didn't you? ) and crank the come along until it's fairly tight. Heat the receiver tube and tap it with a DBH from time to time. As the tension on the cable eases, tighten it up some more. DON'T stand behind it and keep working at it. If all else fails, buy a new hitch and hang the old one on the wall as a reminder.

 

I would merge the advise given and add a bit. While heat is your friend here, too much is worse than not enough. If you heat the receiver too much you'll remove a significant amount of strength from the steel. My suggestion would be to find the big tree previously mentioned. Chock the wheels of the truck and apply a pull to the head with a come-a-long. First try the hammer after the pull is applied, if you still can't get any where, then move to the heat. Just remember to move it around allot and avoid getting anything red. A new head is cheaper than having a failure and losing a trailer and hurting yourself or someone else.

 

Alright , now , for the canuck version, get a crane , the bigger the better ( really all you need is one big enough to lift the truck , but big cranes are way cooler) hook a chain around the ball , use the crane to hoist the truck up over a large pad of bed mattresses , foam blocks , cardboard boxes , your least favorite politician , mother in law , whatever you choose, then commence to heating and beating on the hitch.



You will know when it loosens up :-D




There is no charge for my services, have a nice day.

 

I had a similar problem on a Jeep I had.

No where near the amount of torque as the mighty Cummins, but the only way it came out was chaining it up to one of those poles they put in parking lots.

The key was to make sure the chain was exactly level with the height of the drawbar. If it was too high or low, it wasn't havin' it.

Any time I'm done towing, the drawbar is coming out. It's not enforced very much, but it is illegal to drive with the drawbar sticking out of the receiver in my area.

I'd much rather have someone smash my bumper than wreck my receiver and possibly bend the frame.

 

Well got it out today! Had soaked it several times with PB-blaster and took a 10-lb sledge, got on a creeper, and started wacking it square-on, trying to be even on both sides. Swapped off with a buddy, and after a few minuites it started to move. The truck was right next to his torch, and we were about to light that up, but wanted to try our muscles first...and they worked, for once.

Wire-wheeled it off thorougly, and put it in the toolbox. Blasted out the hitch with high-pressure air (thank you safety glasses) and then sprayed the entire inside of the hitch with never-sieze compound. Sure nice to finally have it out.

Noted the same 3-way solid drawbar at O-rieliy's tonight, for $65.95!!! Glad I bought mine several years ago for $24.95.

 

Instead of PB Blaster or WD 40 next time try a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. That's what we've been using around the farm for over a year now and it works better than any commercial product I've seen. You need to be a little careful with it around painted surfaces but it will loosen up rusted stuff like you wouldn't believe.

 

You owe me a new laptop!

One thing also that works, Heat it up so the metal expands a tiny bit and add PB Blaster. That way it has more cracks to travel through.