Ok, following Thrashingcows lead, I am putting this on the first post:




https://web.archive.org/web/20170702...-wheel-312883/



Ok, I thought that I would take some pics showing how this is done. The instructions for the tilt wheel are in the sticky. As always, use safe practices, never get under a vehicle that is supported by a jack only, use eye protection and remove the battery negative cable. I first took the cylinder to a locksmith and had it re-keyed to the original key. About 30 dollars, well worth it. On the non-tilt wheel, you do need to remove the wheel:

 

Once the wheel is off, you need to remove the turn signal switch, Just remove the 3 philips head screws holding it to the back plate. The turn signal switch must be in the off position to remove all 3. You also need to remove the screw holding the turn signal stem to the switch, it is 1/4" hex. It may be necessary to remove the plastic cover around the turn signal stem to get that screw out (see next step):

 

It helps to separate the stem from the turn signal switch to take off the side cover. It is held on by 2-1/4" hex screws from behind:

 

From here, you need to remove the screw holding on the hazard switch and pull the switch out of the way. (turns out that this is actually a courtesy lamp for the ignition switch, go figure) Remove the 4 philips head screws from the white backing plate, one of them is hidden by the courtesy lamp, remove the circlip and the backing plate slides out. There is a spring behind the white plastic piece, slide that off:

 

Remove the spring and wheel lock star wheel (for lack of a better name). To access the cylinder removal pin (1 of 2) you need to remove the two philips head screws on top. When you do this the plate slides down and reveals the access hole to push the removal pin. The key has to be in the run position to be able to push the pin down. You also need to remove the switch that lets the system know that the key is in the cylinder. this is the key buzzer switch, be careful, it is old delicate plastic:

 

Once the switch is removed and the pin is pushed the second retaining pin needs to be depressed, but you have to remove the key for that to happen. Once the button is depressed, you can wriggle out the cylinder:

 

To re-assemble, first you need to put the key in the on position, depress the small pin, return the key to the off position and remove the key. You insert the cylinder into the plastic hole WITHOUT the key in it, so that the larger pin can be depressed. Once the larger pin has cleared and the cylinder is in position, you then put the key back in and temporarily turn it to the START position in order to force the smaller pin down into the locked position. Make sure that the actuating bar is placed into the slot in the back of the cylinder as it is installed. Leave the key in to make it easier to re-install the key sensor switch with some give in the larger pin. The rest is the reverse of the above. I also packed the bearing with new grease, it is what rides against the circlip. All in all pretty easy, I hope this helps...Mark

 

Nice Writeup, Mr. M.

I say sticky worthy.....

 

Thanks T. It wasn't too bad of a job. One mistake that I made is that I mention the removal of the hazard switch, it turns out that the hazard switch is part of the turn signal switch and comes out with it. The thing I was talking about turns out to be an ignition switch light. How about those dodge engineers putting a little elegance in these trucks. I had no Idea until I accidently pulled the cover off and found a bulb. I had never noticed it...Mark

 

Yup.

Done.

 

Thanks David, much appreciated...Mark

 

Jim Lane's cylinder replacement is for the 91-up columns. I'm guessing the 90-earlier tilt columns would be the same as this?

 

I don't know if they are the same or not, maybe someone that has one will chime in...Mark

 

All pics good here...Mark