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Anybody make their own 2nd gen leveling kit?

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Old 01-10-2007, 02:18 PM
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Anybody make their own 2nd gen leveling kit?

Share the dimensions and bolt patern please.
Old 01-10-2007, 02:26 PM
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and on that train of thought, the spacers are so cheap to buy can you REALLY make them for cheaper. even if materials are free, is you time worth the $100
Old 01-10-2007, 02:29 PM
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I spend alot of time tinkering so I would say yes, my time is worth saving what the cost could be for the kit and shipping. Most local places want over $200 for what I can buy on the internet for $130+shipping. I could always just take my truck apart and build the kit with my own measurements, which is what I will probably end up doing seeing the responses Im getting, but I would rather build them first and then install them.
Old 01-10-2007, 07:40 PM
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I considered building my own and I even plasied out 4 circles the right size but time did not permit and then I bought the 04.5. Sorry if I was at home I would go measure the 1/4" stainless rings I cut out and the bolt pattern. Now that I pull heavy alot I dont want to raise just the front.
Old 01-10-2007, 08:13 PM
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Thanks anyhow, Ill either build one by trial and error or break down and just buy it.
Old 01-11-2007, 06:57 AM
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I only wanted 1" spacers for my 4x4 and had a difficult time finding any....lots of 1" spacers for 2x4's but they aren't interchangeable with a 4x4 coil. I broke down and made my own. I took a coil and rubber isolator out of the truck and took some dimensions. I profile cut some 6.75" diameter circles out of some 1" plate and bored a 3.5" center hole in each and then welded a 1" long piece of 3.5" IPS pipe on one side to locate the coil and rubber isolator. The back side of the 1" spacer that mates to the coil bucket/tower had to have a 4.25" bore .375" deep. The last thing was that I had to add a bit of a bevel to the 4.25" bore. I can't remember how deep I cut the bevel now but it was at least half the depth of the .375" and it was on a 35* angle. This wasn't a critical dimension as the bevel is only there to insure the spacer sits flat in the tower since the hole in the tower is flared. I made no attempt to have them bolt in to the 3 shock tower mounting holes since I have never seen 1" spacers do this and the shock limits ultimate droop travel before the coil releases all of it's pre load off of the spacers.
Old 01-11-2007, 08:46 AM
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I found it cheaper to buy then fabricate...
Old 01-11-2007, 08:57 AM
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Great info CTD NUT. I can get somewhere with that information. The 2" spacer with a stock shock should have less chance of coming out than the ones you built I would think, just because they are taller and creating more tension in the assembly. I really appreciate it.
Old 01-11-2007, 11:28 AM
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my revtek 2" are cast aluminum. and use new studs to secure to the shock tower. Its the only way I'd go personally. I guess if you don't go seriously offroad it probably won't matter. I beat my truck pretty hard. I like piece of mind. A 2" doesn't create more preload on the spring. that doesn't make any sense. It makes the truck sit higher. if you added a 2" spacer and the truck height stayed the same, then there would be more preload on the sprind to hold the spacer. but its just sits 2" higher, with only the weight on the truck on it, just like before you put the spacer in.


and I only paid $150 CANADIAN for mine, and thats delivered to a friends offroad fabrication shop here in Calgary.
Old 01-11-2007, 11:49 AM
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But with a stock shock extended another two inches, it is that much less likely to work itself out. The key was the stock shock, not the two inch spacer.
Old 01-11-2007, 11:58 AM
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hmmm, the shock tower doesn't move in relation to the frame. maybe you're missing something there. and yes if you leave the stock length shock in there it will be 2" limited in travel. but I've also been wheeling with guys that have pulled shocks apart. They will not act as a limiting strap. don't think that a shock will hold a D60 up, cause it won't.
Old 01-11-2007, 12:55 PM
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My 3500 is a blvd cruiser and certainly doesn't get pounded offroad....that is what the Jeep is for but I concede that bolting larger spacers in place is the way to go for piece of mind....for my application, it simply wasn't required. My shocks certainly have no issues holding the D60 when the truck is on a hoist....I suppose cheap shocks could have some issues but I have watched higher quality shocks rip their mounts out of frames when they were too short and/or limiting straps were not in place so I tend to disagree with the generalization that your shocks will get pulled apart if they have to support the weight of the front axle since I have first hand experience that has clearly demonstrated otherwise.
Old 01-11-2007, 01:03 PM
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To clairfy I mean hold a D60 as a limiting strap would in a offroad situation unload, not hanging from a hoist resting on the shocks. and sure theres got to be a quality factor involved too. poor mount or low quality shock the weakest will always give first. and I do beat the Dodge hard in the mountain here. but I'll likely lay off it as soon as my Chev gets completed and back under its own power.


but OK the bottom line is I couldn't be bothered to even think of makeing some for $150CAD cast aluminum with new hardware.
Old 01-11-2007, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DEMON
but OK the bottom line is I couldn't be bothered to even think of makeing some for $150CAD cast aluminum with new hardware.
For sure....I felt the same way....I just didn't want 2" spacers and my half-hearted attempt at finding 1" spacers for a 4x4 yielded a big fat zero.....so, for 3 hours of my time, I fabbed my own. I would not hesitate to purchase the 2" spacers. For awhile, Top Gunz had their 2" spacers for $69.
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