I came home last night with 1/8 tank which I normally won't do and parked on to anangled driveway. This morning the truck wouldn't start. I thought the pick up might be in the rear part of the tank so I coasted down to a level part and added about 5 gal. from a can. I went through the priming procedures with no luck. I did find that if I wait for the "wait to start" to go off and then try it, it always will just turn over. If I go to off and then right to start without waiting, it always will start and sounds normal, but then dies after 2-3 sec. Also with the ignition on, I hear what sounds like a solenoid cycling fast around the valve cover and the water separator. Could it be the lift pump? I got this truck about a month ago and the dealer said it was already on it's 3rd or 4th one. If so, can I do this myself? How much are they? Is there a core charge? If this is this common of a problem and they are field replacable, maybe I'll get a spare.

 

Perform the fuel drain procedure associated with the filter change, as outlined in the owners' manual. If the system does not purge, then figure your transfer pump has kicked it. If the system purges and then stops, then check your wiring on the AC pressure sensor where it wraps up behind the engine for a fray. If it goes to ground it pulls the voltage for the ECM too low to function properly and it will shut down the fuel pressure relay. If the wiring is not frayed, then figure the common rail pressure regulator valve has stuck.

 

Won't start

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[I came home last night with 1/8 tank which I normally won't do and parked on to anangled driveway. This morning the truck wouldn't start. I thought the pick up might be in the rear part of the tank so I coasted down to a level part and added about 5 gal. from a can. I went through the priming procedures with no luck. I did find that if I wait for the "wait to start" to go off and then try it, it always will just turn over. If I go to off and then right to start without waiting, it always will start and sounds normal, but then dies after 2-3 sec. Also with the ignition on, I hear what sounds like a solenoid cycling fast around the valve cover and the water separator.]

This was the first part of my post less than a week ago. When I went out to check to see if I had any codes, it started right up. I filled it and hoped I just sucked some air into the line. Today the same thing happened. I was a little upset but waited like I had done before. I figured I just needed to give it a little time like before and I just needed to get it home. While walking to the truck to try starting it again, the light bulb lit up. I thought I descovered a pattern. I got in the truck and it started right up. I told my father-in-law that there was no longer a problem with the truck. He looked at me like I was crazy. I recreated the problem for him. I discovered a non factory key will not start the truck. I feel like such an idiot. If I had read the whole manual, I'm sure it never would have happened. My wife and I are very relieved. I don't usually point out the fact that I could be such an idiot, but since no one suggested this I thought it may be worthy of posting. With so many people looking to you for help, maybe you will recognize these symptoms and help someone out who has overlooked the same thing. I had never ran across this before. My Dodge Grand Caravan has keys that look the same and operates fine on duplicated keys. I had heard of "chipped" keys but thought it was just a gimmick. I guess not.

 

First of all....is the lift pump still mounted on the fuel filter canister? If so...does it run 20 sec when you "bump" the starter. If it's had "three or four" lift pumps I would think that the intank pump would be on it by now....but let us know.