ok, this may be long or short who knows, i don't really even know where to start, but where ever i do, please help me out, i'm nervous about this!

it was on saturday, i installed the warlbro fuel kit, very impressive peice of equipement, installation went well, and everything works fine, and has been working fine. well today, for the first time today, i got home from work, shut the truck down, mowed the lawn yada yada yada...well then i got ready to go to the grocery store with my grandmother, so i had to move my truck out of the way of her car so we could take that. well, i get in my truck/stick the key in the ignition and turn it on, wait for the "wait to start" light to go out as i always do/crank the engine over a few times, and what do ya know NO START! . so then i bump the starter just once, let the pump run, crank it over for a few seconds, and VROOM, she takes off. didn't change anything about my truck except that fuel pump, nor did i change anything about the way i start my truck, so what happened here? i got back from the store, and it fired up just as normal. so guys, im stumped here. any ideas, please help, for this wieghs heavily on my mind and i don't know what it is, and i NEED this truck to work "perfectly"

thanks a bunch for any help!

 

Sounds like you are sucking air into the fuel line. I would double check you fuel line connections and make sure they are tight.

 

that's what i thought too, but i checked all of that and such and it checked out. so then i called Rich at glacier diesel power where i got the pump kit from and he talked about the diaphrams in the vp44 have micro cracks in them and fuel is getting by there...it made sense to me when he told me, but it's kinda hard to re-explain it.

does anyone else know what he is talking about, and maybe get some more input on this matter?

 

Yep, happened to me. The symptoms of a bad VP44 is usually dead pedal or hard starts after it is warm, heat causes the cracks to expand and causes starting problems. Check to see if you have any codes.

 

ok, i'll check for any codes and post back here...

hey dctoner, did you run your vp44 into the ground or did you replace it right away?

if you ran it til it died, how long did it take you?

 

ok ya'll here is what i came up with...

let's play name that code!

i got three of them...

1) P 1693 (which i believe is from my edge ez, but the other two are new to me)

2) P 0230

3) P 0236

 

Mine started showing symtoms after I replaced my 2nd LP with the FASS. It took a few more cranks to get it to start after it was warm but it wasn't too bad. This was in the Fall and Winter was coming so I was fortunate, I didn't have to replace it until last month when it wouldn't start at all after it was warm.

The only code I could find was:
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor Performance / Rationality

I'm sure you will have someone else chime in on the others. You may want to reset them and see which ones come back. Your EZ shouldn't cause any error codes.

You may also want to consider changing the fuel pickup, these after market pumps have greater suction on the stock unit in the tank and can cause the cracks in the line to pull air. I know Fass recommends a new unrestricted down tube in the tank. I put a 3/8" down tube in mine. Just another possiblily.

You don't have any of the normal codes that point to the VP44 so I would be quick to point the finger at it, it's a chunck of change to replace it.

Does the Walbro kit suggest that you oil the barb fittings before you put the fuel hose over it? I know Fass does, and I know several HVAC guys that swear on it to prevent air leaks. Triple check all all fittings, If you have a needle valve shut it off once to test to make sure you don't have any air leaks up to your gauge. If that doesn't fix it, look at adding a down pipe to the tank.

Good luck

 

can you explain the downtube your takling about a littel more and what the price of this thing would run me?

the warlbro kit does not talk of oiling the barbs but i bet it would help to get them on a little easier too wouldn't it? those push-lock fittings are really tough to get all the way seated and i'll be honest, some of them aren't ALL the way up to the yellow plastic doo hicky.

rich at GDP where i got the kit from said, to wait for some of the excess pressure bleed off before cranking b/c when i turn the key on now, it jumps right to 10 psi, with the stock, it was well...0psi so i've been doing that too and it's been starting fine.

but, i can't imagine that i'm getting air in the lines, b/c if i was, wouldn't it run funny too, not just start funny?

 

Down pipe or suction pipe. FASS dealers have them for around $40 I made my own. Wish I had pics but my wife would let me touch the camera with my diesel smelling hands

If you go to http://www.dieselpp.com/ and in the installation section for the FASS look for the 03 and up installation PDF, it has picks of the install.

if you are waiting til you have 0 psi to start it and it starts fine, there is a computer flash update that will fix this problem. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a Smarty that gave me the program. Before the program, when I turned the key on the psi would jump to 20 psi and then drop back down, now with the program, it goes to 3 psi and back down. There is also another type of mod that doesn't allow the LP to start until you have a certain amount of oil pressure. I'm sure if you dug up some FASS threads it would have the details. I went with the flash because I feel it is a cleaner way to do things.

slow pesky air leaks in the fuel system shouldn't cause running issues.

On the FASS web site it also has a trouble shooting test known as the 5 gal bucket test that can trouble shoot fuel problems in the tank.

 

ok now here's a question.

say that i'm waiting until 0 psi to start it. does this mean that i need to get this flash program done? and that is all that is wrong? or is this also a sign of vp44 failure?

 

If you can wait until you have 0 psi and it starts like it should every time, the flash should fix your problem completely.

The symptom of the VP44 going bad is hard starts or no start after the engine is warm. The psi does not matter.

With mine I would try turning the key on then waiting up to a minute and it still wouldn't start when it was warm.

 

alright thanx man for that info.

now how about this flash program, do you know much about it, if so, can you fill me in on the details about it?

like, who, what, when, where, how, yada yada..........

 

You can get all the flashed from a dealer both ECM and PCM. This is one that is for your ECM.

If you know of anyone that owns a Smarty or sells them and can convince them to let you try it out, they have the flash in them. When you change the power setting, and then change it back to stock, this will give you the ECM update you need.

I think the dealer will charge you $60-$90/flash.

 

if you can give me a zip code I will try to hook you up with someone with a smarty in your area. should be free too

 

sure bob, my zip code is 68048, let me know what ya find out.

thanx dctoner for the info, i'll let ya know how i come out too.