HydroDauk

1999, 2500, 24v, Auto, 4X4 and, Well maintained.

Okay....as you know i had the injector pump replaced....I replaced the lift pump..still the truck lacked power. After reading follow ups to my last post regarding the Turbo....I checked the turbo...it was clean...spun freely...and had NO end to end play...and was tight on side to side play....okay...i decided to investigate fuel delivery problems!!

This morning checked ALL fuel related hoses...seemed tight...no evident leaks. I then proceeded to pull the fuel tank, after pulling the Fuel Module out, I noticed a good amount of dirt AND part of the "Inner" fuel screen( it looks as if there are TWO screens at the bottom of the pickup) WAS MISSING...hmmm...this aint good. Can ANYONE tell me if this "Screen" is even nessesary? I called Dodge they want 369.00 dollars, and are telling me that the screen IS NOT a seperate item, can i modify this fuel pick up???? maybe stick an aftermarket fuel filter in the tank????...i dunno, I am getting very desperate...Iam due to leave town in a few days...i NEED to get this truck running right!!! PLEASE Help!

Now...i realize that "Somewhere" in my fuel line to the lift pump, i MAY have a restricton, due to the pickup screen failing. Tonight i will pull that line off the lift pump, and Blow it out with air.

Okay to sum it up...Injector pump is New, Lift pump is New, Turbo seems fine...I think the fuel pick up was slightly clogged...i need to know if there are ANY easy and reasonable ways to NOT have to buy a new Fuel module from dodge....

Thanks again in the past for all the great tips and leads!!


David D.

RCW

You cannot tell if the fuel hoses are good by looking at them. The best and most responsive rule is to change them if they are more than two years old. That includes the hoses on top of the fuel tank, too. You can use inexpensive clamp on versions or the expensive OEM clip type, it all depends on your comfort and skill level.

The screen on the pickup tube can be replaced with a universal screen sock available from most truck shops or NAPA. The replacement screen unit clamps on where the limpwristed OEM thing was removed. Pick up the new replacement unit before you remove the OEM unit, so you know if the tube has to be cut or if you can just fit and tie the new version on the old frame.

Never, but never, use air to blow out diesel lines. Air will lodge particles into the hoses where they connect to the tubes, and can create all sorts of problems as you try and bleed the air out of the system. The best approach is to pinch the return line hose closed and open the pressure line and put a very small amount (3 PSI) of air pressure on the fuel tank inlet. That will blow fuel through the lines and clean out any crap. You can then pinch off the feed line and open the return line, and do the same thing for that, but it will blow air along with the fuel and that is ok on that line.

The lift pump is located on the left side of the engine, just follow the fuel lines back from the filter, and you will find it between the engine and the frame. The lift pump has an overflow valve that likes to stick if there is any contaminants in the fuel what-so-ever. It is not servicable, but you can sometimes get it to clear by letting it run fuel out the bleeder valve on the filter housing. If the lift pump runs, builds pressure, and then shuts down and restarts as demand is called for, it is likely OK (or as OK as an OEM lift pump ever gets).

Now for what I do. I also install a FASS or Air Dog pump with the dual filter system in place of the OEM lift pump on the 24 valve engines. My experience has been that either option is equally good, and will solve any fuel starvation problems. Just do not fall for the second rate pump only solutions - they are a complete waste of time, as you need additional filtration and air removal right along with the good pump to supply the fuel. The latest version of the upgraded lift pump is every bit as good as any aftermarket pump only solution for all but the really high horse trucks, so you may be just as well off installing an additional Racor commercial type diesel filter ahead of the existing lift pump.

Good luck.

HydroDauk

RCW....Thanks for the info! I THINK I may have solved my fuel pick up problem, on the bottom of the Fuel Module is that Plastic cup assy, with those two fine screens. There is also some sorta check valve located NEXT to the Main pick up tube,why that is there is still unclear, but I figured out how it went back together with no problem. What i did was seeing that the bottom of the pickup screen was still good,I cut a Piece of 3/8 hose about 1" long....once i clipped that screen cup back onto the Fuel Module, The pick up tube was an absolute tight fit against the screen...I think that will work. So basically that 1" 3/8 hose filled the gap, between the pick up tube and the Screen cup. OR I can just leave that open and install an in-line filter BEFORE the lift pump....MAYBE?? I HAVE NOT re- installed my tank yet...want to hear more opinions.

I also..took the lift pump out and inspected it throughly, the inlet screen was CLEAN. While the pump and the tank where out, i climbed under the truck...took a deep breath and Blew into the fuel supply hose...seem clean and no debri came out. Seems to be un-restrictive.

Now as i read your follow up, you stated to replace the fuel lines, okay i assume you mean the hard plastic lines....WHY?? I am NOT doubting you...but i find it hard to believe they are somewhat at fault. Okay...if i do replace these lines can i just cut them off and Use Gates 3/8 rubber lines??

I do not want to get to complicated here. I tow with this truck once in awhile...but other wise i was happy with the power IT HAD. I do not want to go and modify fuel pumps and that sort. I just want the power it USED to have. This truck is in otherwise excellent condition, i use Lucas products.

Let me know what you think??

Thanks,
David D.

RCW

The lines you want to replace every two years are the four flexible lines that connect the tank and steel lines to the engine. There are two sizes, 3/8 on the feed and 5/16 on the return.

What these lines do is dry out. That means that the material that makes them flexible binds with air and fuel molecules and evacuates from the synthetic matrix that composes the hoses. What that causes is microscopic holes that will allow air infiltration. The holes are too small to allow fuel to weep, but definitely let air into the system causing fuel problems.

On the model you have the lines should be secured with little clips in the ends, and then they snap over a specialized fitting on each adjoining end.

When you replace the lines, use marine rated fuel hose for the best, or get replacement lines a shop that specializes in parts for diesels. If you go with clamp on type, which is what I would do, get compression clamps to secure the ends. Do not use the screwdriver tightened airplane type clamps, as they cause the hose to take a set and release tension on the joint and leak air. The flat band compression type clamp maintains a constant rate of pressure on the union and keeps it from leaking for the life of the hose.

The unfortunate reality is that you may not be able to recover your lost power. Once air is allowed to mix with the fuel and pass through the VP44 injection pump, that pump is history. I can trash a brand new VP44 injection pump in five minutes by letting a small amount of air into the fuel and then loading the engine. You want to be religious about keeping air away from the fuel that goes into that pump.