throttle linkage hung wide open
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,132
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From: MA
Those shut off valves are not cheap. $250 at Cummins and 150 on ebay. But a temporary fix if you want to want is. Get a throttle linkage spring and hold the lever up. This seems like it maybe part of your trouble. Sticky linkage and a failing shut off solienoid. So after you hold up the shut off with a spring. You can drive your truck but you will have open hood and push down lever to shut off truck.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 14,672
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From: Montana
Don't replace the solenoid, there is likely nothing wrong with it though you may need to remove and clean it if it's been without a boot.
Replace the boot or make one out of a bicycle inner tube.
Problem is almost always the the firewall relay or battery blue wire.
This website describes well though links how the solenoid system works and you can buy a boot, blue fusible link or relay also. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Replace the boot or make one out of a bicycle inner tube.
Problem is almost always the the firewall relay or battery blue wire.
This website describes well though links how the solenoid system works and you can buy a boot, blue fusible link or relay also. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro, NC
Those shut off valves are not cheap. $250 at Cummins and 150 on ebay. But a temporary fix if you want to want is. Get a throttle linkage spring and hold the lever up. This seems like it maybe part of your trouble. Sticky linkage and a failing shut off solienoid. So after you hold up the shut off with a spring. You can drive your truck but you will have open hood and push down lever to shut off truck.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro, NC
Don't replace the solenoid, there is likely nothing wrong with it though you may need to remove and clean it if it's been without a boot.
Replace the boot or make one out of a bicycle inner tube.
Problem is almost always the the firewall relay or battery blue wire.
This website describes well though links how the solenoid system works and you can buy a boot, blue fusible link or relay also. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Replace the boot or make one out of a bicycle inner tube.
Problem is almost always the the firewall relay or battery blue wire.
This website describes well though links how the solenoid system works and you can buy a boot, blue fusible link or relay also. http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 1
From: MA
It might have been a combination of the 2 at the same time. Your truck will stay running if the shut off fails. The 12vs are not really computer controled. When you check the shut off valve. Look for play in and out. If the arm just drops out it has issues.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro, NC
hmmm, might be getting closer...
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/T_Cable/diesel_tc.htm
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/T_Cable/diesel_tc.htm
One TDR Member reported that after changing his throttle cable, the engine ran at full throttle with no pressure on the accelerator pedal.
His problem: "I didn't remember that the "ear" on the new bell crank had to go into the little slot on the secondary bell crank that has the throttle rod attached to it."
What happened: "I had a HELL of a time getting the spring on the first time I tried it, had to use a wire to get it pulled around far enough...I didnt have the "ear" in the slot on the scondarybell crank. I had it in ??front of the secondary, which meant it had to be pulled around about a 1/2" too FAR. Then I got everything back together, started it...WOT with the pedal completely off of the floor... The second try on the other side of scondary bell crank...still WOT... saw one of my customers who was driving his 12V, flaged him ofer and discovered that it was supposed to go in the little slot on the secondary bell crank...WALLAA..."
His problem: "I didn't remember that the "ear" on the new bell crank had to go into the little slot on the secondary bell crank that has the throttle rod attached to it."
What happened: "I had a HELL of a time getting the spring on the first time I tried it, had to use a wire to get it pulled around far enough...I didnt have the "ear" in the slot on the scondarybell crank. I had it in ??front of the secondary, which meant it had to be pulled around about a 1/2" too FAR. Then I got everything back together, started it...WOT with the pedal completely off of the floor... The second try on the other side of scondary bell crank...still WOT... saw one of my customers who was driving his 12V, flaged him ofer and discovered that it was supposed to go in the little slot on the secondary bell crank...WALLAA..."
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