steering box bearing preload adjustment
steering box bearing preload adjustment
i have the typical play in the shaft leading into the gear..id like to do the preload...I've read up on it...any tips guys?...do I need to remove the shaft?...I heard this thing is usually hand tight only ...I also heard somehting about having to get the steering off center first to do it??...any tips and advice would be appreciated
Well, I don't want to tell you to do something and end up helping you break something.
However, I just adjusted my box while it was still on the truck. If you want to do it properly according to the manual, you have to pull the box if I remember correctly.
Heres what I found, I had a lot of slop and play in the input shaft. I in turn unscrewed the retainer and with it came the cap that holds the bearing in place. Once it was out I screwed that bearing retainer in a couple of turns. It was pretty tight in the lock ring. I used a couple screwdrivers and a long pry bar to turn it. This is where you are supposed to need the spanner wrench according to the manual.
Ok, if you've followed me so far, after I tightened the retainer piece into the locking ring a few turns I put it back on the box. Low and behold a lot of slop and play went away in the box. I repeated this once more and got it tightened up really good.
Now, one, you can over do this adjustment and I believe ruin the box. Also, no fluid leaked out at all. Im assuming fluid doesn't get there?
Well, keep in mind you can over tighten and over do the force on that bearing. So keep your adjustments minimal.
Hope this is what you were looking for and helps you somewhat.
Have a good one.
However, I just adjusted my box while it was still on the truck. If you want to do it properly according to the manual, you have to pull the box if I remember correctly.
Heres what I found, I had a lot of slop and play in the input shaft. I in turn unscrewed the retainer and with it came the cap that holds the bearing in place. Once it was out I screwed that bearing retainer in a couple of turns. It was pretty tight in the lock ring. I used a couple screwdrivers and a long pry bar to turn it. This is where you are supposed to need the spanner wrench according to the manual.
Ok, if you've followed me so far, after I tightened the retainer piece into the locking ring a few turns I put it back on the box. Low and behold a lot of slop and play went away in the box. I repeated this once more and got it tightened up really good.
Now, one, you can over do this adjustment and I believe ruin the box. Also, no fluid leaked out at all. Im assuming fluid doesn't get there?
Well, keep in mind you can over tighten and over do the force on that bearing. So keep your adjustments minimal.
Hope this is what you were looking for and helps you somewhat.
Have a good one.
The lock ring and the center piece (bearing retainer) both came out together when I pulled mine off. I clamped it into a bench vise and then stuck the screwdrivers through the two holes and used a big prybar in between to turn the bearing retainer.
I just repeated pulling it off the box and out a couple times till when I put it back in it was tightened up.
Its kind of a pain to get to that lock ring somewhat. I used a 16" long punch to get at and that worked pretty good without damaging anything.
Good luck and have a good one.
I just repeated pulling it off the box and out a couple times till when I put it back in it was tightened up.
Its kind of a pain to get to that lock ring somewhat. I used a 16" long punch to get at and that worked pretty good without damaging anything.
Good luck and have a good one.
hi
i just did mine and i removed the box to do it .
not hard at all to remove the box .
make it easy remove the 4 bolts holding the sway bar mounts and let it fall down out of the way ! not the end links !
have the wheels straight ahead and use a 13 mm socket on some long extensions and remove the bolt from coupler at box from the top slide shaft off.
unhook preasure hose near booster and plug to keep dirt out .
remove return hose from pump and plug hose and pump as all the fluid will drain from pump !
remove stearing rod from pitman arm , i heated arm with a propane tourch for about 3 min on bottom side 2 in from joint as not to burn boot , then a cuople o wacks with a hammer holding a biger hammer on arm top to take the shock from box bearing.
remove 3 mounting bolts and out it came .
replaced seals at stearing shaft end and under adjuuster cover and adjusted box .
turn stearing shaft adjuster in till it touches and back off about 3/16 in and install lock ring
with stearing shaft centered at two turns from each end screw alen screw clockwise till it stops then back off 1/6 of a turn , tighten nut DONE!
reinstall box fill with fluid ! took me 2.5 hours and i was not in a hurry !
go for a ride !
i just did mine and i removed the box to do it .
not hard at all to remove the box .
make it easy remove the 4 bolts holding the sway bar mounts and let it fall down out of the way ! not the end links !
have the wheels straight ahead and use a 13 mm socket on some long extensions and remove the bolt from coupler at box from the top slide shaft off.
unhook preasure hose near booster and plug to keep dirt out .
remove return hose from pump and plug hose and pump as all the fluid will drain from pump !
remove stearing rod from pitman arm , i heated arm with a propane tourch for about 3 min on bottom side 2 in from joint as not to burn boot , then a cuople o wacks with a hammer holding a biger hammer on arm top to take the shock from box bearing.
remove 3 mounting bolts and out it came .
replaced seals at stearing shaft end and under adjuuster cover and adjusted box .
turn stearing shaft adjuster in till it touches and back off about 3/16 in and install lock ring
with stearing shaft centered at two turns from each end screw alen screw clockwise till it stops then back off 1/6 of a turn , tighten nut DONE!
reinstall box fill with fluid ! took me 2.5 hours and i was not in a hurry !
go for a ride !
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