All right.....here I go. Lately my starter had been acting up. My solenoid would not ingage properly and it would take 1-6 turns of the key to start the engine.
Well this morning it finally got stuck in the run posisition with the engine running. I tried to tap the starter and solenoid with a hammer. That didnt work. As I went into my house to get a wrench to disconnect the batteries I heard the engine bogg and die. And "died" it did.
As I went back to the truck there was a cloud of smoke rising from under the hood that was open. The smoke was coming from the fuel shutdown solenoid.
$500. later :'(I have a new starter and fuel shutdown solenoid.
My question is what caused the shutdown solenoid to "melt-down" like that. I assumed it had something to do with the starter solenoid sticking and the engine continueing to run for another 4-5 minutes. The guy I bought the solenoid from feels something else caused it and that I should get everthing else checked out before trying to start the engine.
A mechanic where I work thinks I can just start the engine and check the shutdown solenoid by touching it to see if is starts to get warm and then just shut down the engine if I need to.
Any help or suggestions would be appriciated.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here;
When you turn on the key it energizes the relay for the shutoff,then when you turn the key to start, the shutoff solenoid gets an extra kick to make sure it is up. Now, if the starter solenoid hangs,like yours did, it send a bunch of energy back at the shutoff solenoid the wrong way, which doesn't help it at all. I bought the starter contact 2 weeks ago, I think I should fix mine soon!? Tony

 

Good morning tmiller,

I would change those contacts asap! I too was going to change them and kept putting off for another day. Now I'm paying for it. I do think that the solenoid being stuck caused my fuel shut off to "fry" like it did.
After spending $300 on the the new fuel shut off solenoid I don't want to have to buy another one. I just wish I could be sure that I'm not going to "fry" this one. ???
I'm heading out now to install my new parts. Wish me luck!

 

This post is connected to yesterdays post" Starter/fuel shutoff question".
I want to check the Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Relay but I really don't know where to look. I already looked in the Power Dist. Box under the hood, found other relays but not the one I was looking for. ???

 

Never Mind!
Just poked threw my "Hayne's Manual" and found it.
But what is the best way to insure it's working properly?

 

HI guys - I'm a 24v owner but my neighbor has a 97 dually 12v.

He came to me this weekend complaining that the truck didn't want to start smoetimes, and it was getting worse. He *swore* it had to do with the truck sitting on a hill versus being level, but it took me all of 5 minutes of reading dodgeram.org, tested the fuel shutdown solenoid and sure enough, we could make it either start or not just by moving the fuel shutdown by hand...

The solenoid isn't moving the plunger (or whatever it's called, with the rubber boot that goes up & down) when the key is turned to ON or CRANK. If you push it up by hand (with the key on, the truck will then start right up.

I need a little guidance - either the linkage is sticky (we live on dirt roads, this is likely), or the solenoid itself is bad? I will have his truck in my shop tonight after work, and plan on testing the power lead to the solenoid, and the relay, etc., and also lubricating/cleaning the mechanism.

What else should I be looking for? I have the Helm and Haynes manuals, and am handy with a VOM. I'm much handier with ISBs though!!!

thanks in advance,
-scott

 

dieselgeek,
Take a look at the fuel return line where it comes out of the pump. They have a tendency to crack and allow air into the system.

I found when this happened on mine, if I parked the nose downhill it started fine, uphill and I would have to prime it to start. Those hoses will leak and you won't see anything on the ground, just some moisture on the hose itself or along the bottom of the tranny and frame.

 

Check all the wires at the + side of the driver side battery.
I think its the blue one that kicks the soleniod when cranking. Then the relay will hold it in while running.

 

[quote author=dieselgeek link=board=13;threadid=17863;start=0#msg171088 date=1060613859]
HI guys - I'm a 24v owner but my neighbor has a 97 dually 12v.

I had the same problem with a 1996 2500. I found that the relay located on the firewall that pulled in the solenoid was pitted and not putting out full voltage. Replaced the relay $47.00 and life was good again. Hope this helps.[/quote]