The right rear axle bearing is roaring. Has anyone replaced theirs? If so I could use some good instructions on replacing it, and a list of tools needed.

Thanks, Rodney

 

Not familiar with 00 trucks but it should be the same as any full floating rear end. Jack up side to be torn down enough tp keep lube from running out. Behind the wheel cap are the 8 or so axle bolts that must be removed and the axle slid out. First remove the wheel/lugs/brake drum. Slide the axle out and youll see a set up thats pretty much the same as a front end 2wd truck just bigger. Remove the lock nut/washer if any and inner nut,slid the whole works out and off the spindle. You will need to replace the bearings and races to get a good job. The races should come out with a drift punch after gently knocing out each side a little at a time. The new ones can be pressed in using the old race as a tool. also youll need a new axle seal. Youll also need the socket to loosen the nuts to do the job,and the proper tightening torque to put it back together.

 

The drum on 2000 just slides off like on a 1/2 ton truck. It leaves a tube sticking out with a cap bolted on it. I pull one of the break drum off just after buying it to check the break shoes. Everybody I know has the older type like yours and haven't been into one like mine. I don't know if it makes a difference or not but it has a Dana 70 in it.

My problem is once I start I have to fix it and get it back together. It really hurts when you don't have another way to go and have a problem.

 

this is specific to a d60 but aplys to d70 & d80
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ea%20Axle).PDF

 

Easy way to remove the seal is after you remove the 2-9/16" nut is to reinstall the hub and nut minus the outer bearing. You can then use the entire hub unit like a slide hammer to pound the seal out.
Make sure you have a new keeper for the nut on hand, the old one is usually destroyed on removal.
Replacing the bearings and seal is a 2 on a 1 - 10 rating of difficultly.
In other words easy.