Hey every body this is a great forum and I'm hoping you folks could give me some ideas on the best way to re assemble my Truck, is my first Diesel and I really enjoy the truck I dont pull anything heavy and really I use it primarly to see my kids they are in B.C. Canada so I drive in the snow a lot, and need it to be reliable.

here is the situation; the truck started to litely smoke, did so for about a week, I was not sure there was anything wrong but one day standing at a light it just billow blue smoke I tenderly drove it home and park it, did a compression check seem one of the cylindors was dead, took the head off and the gasket was not oviously blown, only blowby marks on the last cylinder, I had the head cleanded and shaved, valves re seated the shop said the head was fine, and bought the head gasket, I'm looking to re use the head bolts, and buy or rent a tool to re torque the head, so Im looking for some feed back here are a few things I'm not sure about

#1 should I use a loctite product on the head bolts
( I'm thinking that I would like to re torque the head every 3rd oil change
if that is so should I not use a loctite product )

#2 is the gasket installed dry

#3 what is the correct torquing sequence and
( is there a phumatic or electric torquing tool that is reliable which
I can buy or rent ?)

#4 do I need to re time the valves every time I re torque the head

#5 is there any preventive maintance I should do while the Head is off
IE changing the oil cooler gasket??

#6 the truck came from California I live in Seattle, it had this by pass tube
which recycles exuast to the intake, I really want it off specially since I
found a leak, so I pluged the holes for it does that mean that I will have
to re time the fuel pump or do you think I can get away with just
leaving it alone ??

are there any does and dont that I should know about ?

while the engine was apart I did fix the KDP since I had it apart I tought might as well, when I took the timing cover of the dowell was out about 75% of the way out in a way is a good thing the gasket whent before the dowel droped.

your toughts would be apricitated.

 

1. No, lube the threads with motor oil.
2. Yes.
3. You pretty much start in the middle and work your way out in a clockwise direction. Bolt # 1 is in between #3 and #4 rocker boxes. A manual torque wrench is the best way to do it. 3 steps: 66 ft-lbs, 89 ft-lbs, then add 90 degrees. Check the bolts for stretch with the paper gauge in the Cummins gasket kit, also drop them head down from chest height on concrete. Ring=OK, thunk=bad.
4. No, retorqueing the head will not disturb the valve lash. It's not really necessary on a stock motor with stock head bolts, just clamp 'er down and drive. However - The adjusting screws should be backed off when the rocker towers are bolted down, otherwise there will be an oil leak when the tube between the head and the tower gets deformed because the valves are holding the tower out of square.
5. If the oil cooler gasket is not leaking, leave it alone. It's not a common trouble spot.
6. The truck won't run any different if you leave the timing alone, there is no urgent need to change it just because you blocked off the EGR. You ought to check the timing if you get the chance, 2nd gen 12 valves are notorious for slipping time and winding up significantly retarded from stock.

 

The cylinder block and head must be clean and dry.
Position the gasket onto the dowels Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment Make sure the gasket is correctly aligned with the holes in the cylinder block.
Carefully put the cylinder head onto the gasket and cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head is installed onto the dowels in the cylinder block Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment .
Install the push rods and rocker levers.
Use clean engine oil to lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads and under the bolt heads.
The cylinder head bolts are 3 different sizes. Install the bolts in the proper hole. Tighten the bolts as follows:
Step 1 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
Step 2 - Tighten all long 12 mm bolts (Nos. 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21), in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
Step 3 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , an additional 90°.
.
Be sure to lubricate the push rod sockets with clean engine oil. Be sure push rod is seated properly in the tappet.
Install the rocker lever pedestal bolts and tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Adjust the valve clearance.
Install the valve covers. Tighten the bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install the injector nozzles and fuel lines (refer to Fuel System)
Install the remote fuel filter/water separator head. Install the fuel filter/water separator (refer to Fuel System for the proper procedures)
Install the exhaust manifold (refer to Exhaust System and Intake Manifold)
Install the EGR tube and start fasteners by hand.
Tighten all bolts/nuts to 24 N·m (212 in. lbs.) torque. When tightening bolts at EGR valve end of tube, alternate between the upper and lower bolt to allow face of EGR valve to remain square to tube mounting flange on EGR tube.
Install the turbocharger.
Connect the radiator and heater hoses.
Fill the engine with new coolant or the clean drained coolant (refer to Cooling System for the proper procedure)
Fill the engine with clean lubricating oil (refer to Lubrication and Maintenance)

 

Thanks to both of you folks for responding to the Thread, I order some wire brushes to clean out the Head bolt holes on the block, and the injector holes, and will start Assembling the truck next week, I surely appreciate your help...

Andy


Sorry it took me a while to respond I did not realise that I had not subscribe to my own thread,

 

Fellows I was wondering if I could get your counsel on the head gasket replacement on the truck, here is the Status.


Took the injectors to a injector shop, they tested them and said 2 of them had no spray pattern and they looked really very worn so I had all of the injectors rebuild, new tips, still stock. ($560.00 USD ? is this a reasonable price for a rebuild)

Got a new head gasket ( standard) and re assembled the head, follow the instructions pretty much to the tee, got the engine at TDC by pressing in the pin behind the timing cover, then adjusted the valves accordingly, rotated the engine etc as the sequence shows in the book, I replaced the fuel filter and got a new pig tail for the fuel filter as it was coming apart, read up on getting the prime back on the truck took of the bleed screw on the front of the fuel filter, push the primer button on the Lift pump about 300 times, got clean fuel at the fuel filter, sealed it off, prime some more, got fuel at the #1 injector which was left open, re charged the batteries, cross my fingers… turned it over, will crank, and skirt fuel on the #1 injector top nut but not starts not even a pop…. I remember the recommendation to check and make sure it had not jumped time so, so I removed the cover for the timing pin on the IP and the pin was right where it should be with the engine at TDC. So is timed good enough to start.

Here are some of the problems I might have.

#1 ( had diesel in tank, fired up with out purging the fuel systems )the truck has been sitting since May of 08, could the Diesel fuel have degregaded?? The fuel coming out of the injector did not have the typical diesel aroma … Initially I thought maybe by filling the fuel filter with fresh fuel should have over come that, (However the IP could still be full of bad fuel) or I could have bought a bad batch of fuel, (filled up at a chevron in Seattle, looks like they have had some problems) or maybe it was gasoline, after 10 months surely is bad, If the fuel is bad one way or another, is the solution drain the tank fuel filter and IP fill up with fresh fuel or additive for easier starting re prime and try aging?? Or does Diesel stays good in the tank for longer periods of time?

#2 ( if the lever on the pump is up she will run down she stops) I read to check Solenoid on the on off valve on the IP pump, I was making sure It was not stuck and notice the rubber boot has totally eroded away and when I turn on the ignition initially it was sticking, however I pulled up on it ( I’m thinking that is open and it pulled up all the way ) still will not start, I had to take the plunger apart to replace it I did leave the harness to the solenoid connected, will the truck start if the gate is left on the up position or does it need to be all hook up ? (Like to hear it run before I put the covers and air filter and the intake from the heater up.)

#3 (Lift pumps is good ) Since the lift pump is pushing fuel as far as the #1 injector I'm assuming that the lift pump is OK since is a mechanical pump I have no real way of testing the pressure with out the truck running, and I have not clean the screen on the heater but I really don't want to trow parts at it, it was running before and it should run now, and it should have started by now so I need to find my problem with out trowing $$ at it, however could the lift pump be bad or the Over Flow valve ??

#4 ( One harnes on the off on solonoid one on the Auto Trans Sensor ) this is a real no brainer but I’m not coming to terms on this, on the book it talks about 3 wiring harness on the IP pump, one is the harness for the on/off solenoid, the other is the harness for the automatic transmission that attaches to the trotlle linkage and the last is the engine harness that hooks to the top of the pump, I have not been able to find the 3rd hardness and I cant remember taking it off, I only see the solenoid harness and the transmission harness attached to the linkige on the IP, can you give my and idea exactly where is the engine harness that attaches to the top of the pump, I cant see it and is driving me nuts.

#5 ( Pin Poped back in) this is kind of an add on but this happen last night so I tought to add it in
the TDC pin that you push in to mark TDC, It got stuck on the in possition and I got creative with the hole on a cresent rench and a screw driver, well not only did it pulled it out it pulled it right of the engine, is this something I can just push back in, ?? any suggestions would be apriciated...


Thanks for your help on this, I’m really on a thought situation, got laid off a year ago, starting school, my second vehicle is getting ready to give up the ghost and I really need the truck on the road I was thinking about posting this on the emergency forum but wanted to see if you fellows could illuminate me on the situation.


Thanks a lot for your thoughts.

 

You will probably have to bleed at least 3 injectors before she will fire off, at least that has always been my experience. When she does start to pop, she will prime the rest automatically.

Mine has but one plug, Auto trucks have the TPS, not really part of the pump, dunno about a third, unless your manual is referring to the older VE pump's KSB circuit, which we do not have.

 

I think the Manual most have been refering to another pump because I'm sure that they are only two Electrical Connectors on the IP on my truck so that rules out the possibility of a unplug harnes, I think I'm going to drain the fuel tank and purge the fuel system, get some 911 or something like that and fill the fuel filter with it, and fresh fuel in the tank, then try againg this time will bleed 3 injectors, Seems there is a possibility that I bought some bad fuel, It just does not smell right, could be gasoline that is now bad, since is been in the tank for 10 months, I'm wondering if there is a way to test the fuel to be sure what it is ? I wish I would have trouble shot the truck better before I tore it down but at least now I know the engine is ok, should get some good use from it.

 

1. I doubt it. They will run on darn near anything flammable and oily.

2. All the way up = open. When you turn the key on, you should not be able to move the lever any further up. Replace the boot at some point, but as long as it is pulling the lever all the way up the solenoid is not your trouble.

3. Won't know until you get it running and do a pressure test.

5. It should pop right back in. There's a little snap ring that retains it.

I'm with patdaly, you probably just need to bleed the high pressure system more. The easy way is with a little whiff of ether. Make sure you unplug the relays for the grid heaters before you try ether, though.

 

Hey fellow thanks so much for your help on this you where all right on all points.

I was at Napa Auto Parts and got to looking at some of the Diesel additives and found this Starter Fluid that Valvoline Sells I was reading it and right on the front it said ok to use on Diesel engines as longs as they dont have Glow Plugs... this could fix my prime hassle, and I figure is a good way to make sure I have good compression and it might spin the engine fast enough to prime it so I sprayed it on the intake and it fire right up ( have to confess I had no idea how to get around the heater ) so I made sure I had a fire extingiser handy...
she sound so good...

I still have a few more questions about the turbo waste gate and I need to smog it in two weeks so I think i should open another tread for those things or should we keep this one going ????

 

Andy, you got lucky, Ether is a big no-no.

I have run them on everything from WD-40 to a gasoline soaked rag ( don't do that! ), the real problem with Ether is that it can explode when it hits the heater grid, shrapnel, not fire is your enemy.

In any instance, good to hear she fired right up, and at least around here, most fuel now smells funny, still cannot get used to the smell of ULSD.

As for continuing, this area is for emergencies only, post the rest of your questions down on the 12V forum.

 

I think that is well worth taking some time to talk about the product That Valvoline sales called " Extra Strength Starting Fluid, for Gasoline and Diesel Engines " ( A.K.A.) Ether, this product is actually lavel For Gasoline and Diesel Engines, on the instructions it indicates that it complies with the Federal Laws that govern low sulfer in Diesel Engines, it warns not to use it on Diesel Engines which have glow plugs, but all other diesel engines are o.k. As I understand the Dodge truck I now drive has no glow plugs, I bought it from Napa.

When I got back home and got ready to start the truck, I realized that the heater would pre heat once I open the ignition and that could ignite the ether so I got one of the straws that you can put on the can, and inserted in the intake past the heater, ( better idea would have been to dissable the heater but I did not figure that out till I re read the forum post,) and spray it in to the intake of the cold engine for 3 seconds, crank it and it fired right up, it primed and I ran it for about 30 minets.

The reason why I wanted to type that is to say this, there is a product sitting in the auto parts store that is label " starting fluid for Diesels " with the lack of an electric lift pump in the tank on trucks like mine, guys are going to buy this product to resolve the prime issue, specially in adverse conditions, ( it was 32 f here snow in the ground, the truck is in the drive way, I have been trying to get it to prime for about 3 days, with out the Ether it would have been very difficult to start the truck) I hope they realize that this products has the potential to make or ruin your whole day, so make sure you are being counsious of the safety factors, I have been told is kind like holding a grenade in your hand under the hood, so you need to be very carefull, kind of ties in to the sharpnel that was mention, so I hear you Pat I'm being really carefull.

So Thats my 3 cnts


I'm not sure how to got the thread of the help forum any thoughs on that ??

 

Andy, cool, you were thinking, many don't. Glad you did not spray it pre-heater.

The real reason I posted what I did is others read and think "well, he did it, it must be OK...."

Another thing many don't know is that while we do not have Glow Plugs, the heater does the same thing, other than it not being 100 percent required for a start like the others do.

As for the priming issue, you did pre-prime the system with the LP before you tried to start it, right? If not, man I know why you had a devil of a time. On our 12V trucks, there is a black rubber button on the LP that you depress to manually prime the system. I find it easier to use a garden hoe handle to reach down there and prime. When she starts to "sing" ( hard to describe the sound, but kind of like forcing air between your teeth), it means the fuel is bypassing the overflow valve on the P7100 and you should be re-primed. Be advised, if it shut down at a certain point, the LP drive arm could be at the high side, and you would have to roll over the engine a bit for the manual primer to work.

As for moving the thread, you can't, and shouldn't, this was appropriate for the Help section, and should stay here for others to reference.

Just create a new thread on the 12V forum for the rest of your questions.

 

I really spent a lot of time reading the forums on how to prime the engine, I did not want to scrafice a garden hose, almost did but not quite, so I got a small piece of soft wood 1x1x3 and wrap it in a cotton rag, worked well to prime the button on the lift pump, ( confession I did this affter my thumb was as some of the other forums members said " Hamburger man " I counted 300 pushes on the primer button with my thum did not work) I did get fuel first at the front fuel filter banjo fitting where I had removed the small screw on top of the banjo fitting, closed that off then got fuel at the top of the number one injector, so it primed, along this procees I did manage to find out that if the pump is not at the right spot on the cam, you can not prime it, however I did not figure out how to tell where the arm of the pump is sitting on the cam, other then priming and turning the cam until you get flow, I would like to re inforce the fact that the truck is sitting in 32 F or 0 Celcious Temperature, that is why is so hard to start, if this truck was sitting in Sunny Souther Cal on 85 + F, most likely it would have fire right up.

I really wanted to share two brief stories with you, I new the truck would kick out some smoke when it started, and it spew a beutifull huge black cloud as it breathe in to life, as it started to warm her up I could not resist crank it a bit the air intake is off so I could hear the turbo spinning the feeling was good, I thougth this is a good time to call it a night so I came inside and had a beer and chated whit my girlfriend, time came to clean up and I got ready to crash, she whent to trow the laundry in was schocked, some how the inside of the clothes dryer which happens to be sparkly white was cover in this black smoke sud, right at that moment I realized that the end of my exaust pipe was in a direct line of fire with the dryer exhuast which was about 12 feet away from my exuast oh oh, make maters worse there is a leak on the dryer exhust which goes in to the cover on the kitchen, some sud there to, every thing cleaned up good and she was real good about it, but I would recomend you are carefull with your exaust, I want one of those that point srtaight up...


Story number #2 a few years ago I gave my then 9 year old son a new knive we talked about the dangers of it etc, he loves knives what 9 yearl old does not, a few months later on one of the visits he was reassuring me that he had been really care full and showed me a scar on hes finger, and proudly stated " see Dad you have nothing to worry about", I did cut my self here but the bone stopped the knive, dead on its tracks, so nothing to worry about," Inside I felt real dumb to have giving him that knive and was not sure how to deal with that mistake, However as time has gone by he is now 12 and at the last visit he proudly showed me the deer he brought home ( he has now graduated to guns has a large collection of every kind of knive you can think of and a few rifles) he dressed the deer himself, there was a real sense of satisfaction for me, not to talk about how empowered he felt, we took a risk and it paid of in a big way.

so I say that to say this, the information which comes from the Diesel forum is very usefull, doing the things we do on the trucks is something that not only benefits the enviorment by the development of cleaner running engines, or economic situations, we save a lot of $$ mula, the self gratiffication of making your truck run. all the things we move etc etc etc, however we do these things and we take this risk at our own expense, there fore I recomend that you are very very very carefull speacially a newby like me

I will re open a new post to address the other things on the truck.

Againg Thanks to every one who helped me get the truck up and runnign

 

It's a great feeling when you put something back together and it works.

 

Sure is too bad you fellows are so far away, otherwise I invite you out to coffee...