removing control arms
#1
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removing control arms
I started yesterday putting on my new lift. I've spent all day yesterday and today trying to get the driver side upper control arm out. I got the lower one out and I finally beat the axel side upper out but I cant get the body side upper bolt to move what so ever. it spins with a big enough ratchet but wont come out. I tried a gear puller but just bent the bracket its attached to. I also have tried putting some heavy wall pipe on the nut on the bolt and wailing on it with an 8# sledge hammer. I'm pretty much screwed now for work next week. I thought 3 days would be enough time to put the front half of a lift on Anyone have any ideas how to get it out? I thought about torching it but theres a ton of wires up there. I also thought about cutting it but dont see how to get a hack saw or recipercating saw in there, that and I kind of need that bolt. So far ive just been soaking it with PB blaster rust penitrant. Any ideas would be greatly apprciated.
Once again... thanks
Chris
Once again... thanks
Chris
#2
I am a bit confused, your signature shows a four wheel drive, and they do not have control arms.
Are you trying to get the upper rear mount for the driver's side suspension arm off? If so, take an air powered cutting wheel and reach up and zip off the nut and the end of the bolt. Then just drive out the remaining bolt. You can get a small air powered cutting wheel tool for under 20 bucks at one of the elcheapo Chinese junk tool places like Harbor Freight, and it will last long enough to do this job a few times over.
OR, are you trying to get the upper track bar end off? That one takes a torch about two thirds of the time as even after the nut is removed the tapered bolt is likely frozen into the mount. Generally, the lift kit comes with a new upper mount system for the track bar, and you will remove the entire upper mount to install the one for the lift kit. If you got a lift kit without the relocation kit for the track bar, send it back as you will rip your spring seats right off the frame from the change in geometry if you use the truck on rough roads at all with a lift and the OEM track bar mount.
Are you trying to get the upper rear mount for the driver's side suspension arm off? If so, take an air powered cutting wheel and reach up and zip off the nut and the end of the bolt. Then just drive out the remaining bolt. You can get a small air powered cutting wheel tool for under 20 bucks at one of the elcheapo Chinese junk tool places like Harbor Freight, and it will last long enough to do this job a few times over.
OR, are you trying to get the upper track bar end off? That one takes a torch about two thirds of the time as even after the nut is removed the tapered bolt is likely frozen into the mount. Generally, the lift kit comes with a new upper mount system for the track bar, and you will remove the entire upper mount to install the one for the lift kit. If you got a lift kit without the relocation kit for the track bar, send it back as you will rip your spring seats right off the frame from the change in geometry if you use the truck on rough roads at all with a lift and the OEM track bar mount.
#3
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Chris, there's a better than reasonable chance that your bolt has married the steel sleeve inside the bushing. Your best and quickest bet, if you have been thumping away at it that long, is to get a recip saw in there on either side of the bushing, and cut the bolt.
I know you kind of need the bolt, but I also know you can get grade 8 bolts big enough to do the job at most jobber places, then, you can get by until you can get the proper bolt, or go to your local finning dealer and get some grade 12 bolts.
If you want the best way to get it done, that would be about it. You may need a prybar to force the flange away from the sleeve, so that you can cut the bolt, but it will save your time, and your sanity. Good luck.
And you thought the back was going to be a pain...
I know you kind of need the bolt, but I also know you can get grade 8 bolts big enough to do the job at most jobber places, then, you can get by until you can get the proper bolt, or go to your local finning dealer and get some grade 12 bolts.
If you want the best way to get it done, that would be about it. You may need a prybar to force the flange away from the sleeve, so that you can cut the bolt, but it will save your time, and your sanity. Good luck.
And you thought the back was going to be a pain...
#4
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Originally Posted by RCW
I am a bit confused, your signature shows a four wheel drive, and they do not have control arms.
The 4 suspension parts that keep the axle from moving forward or rearward on coil sprung solid axles.
phox
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thanks everyone. I even tried some heat but theres wires and fuel lines there and im afraid of roasting them. Your right pind, the sleeve is stuck to the bolt. I do have a recip saw and it didnt look like I could get it up there but ill actaully get it out and give it a shot. I think your right, its the best bet. The nut came off fine. I just cant get the bolt out of the **** hole!
Thanks again guys
Chris
Thanks again guys
Chris
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well unfortuantly I cant get to the bolt on the inside side of the controll arm. I can only get to the sleeve. Luckly for me the sleeve is hardend and I cant seem to cut it. Right now I can only thing to throw money at it and maybe that will fix it. Big *** cut off wheel and a grinder? Other wise im going to have to cut it all off and buy a long arm kit. I'm so thankfull every day that dodge put coils up front and not leafs. The slightly better ride is deffintly worth all the headachs and money it costs. Thanks for the tips guys
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i cant seem to find the instructions online for the cepek long arm kit anymore. Any else know where to find them? I remember not likeing all the cutting that had to be done but i see no other way to put my truck back together without cutting all the brackets off for the controll arms to get the beatup torched twisted mess out and just move them back. anyone know if the DC long arm kit is even any good or how bad it is to install?
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