Hi, my name is Brandon and I need help. (this is a support group, right?)

Trying to figure out ways to properly set pinion yoke preload without a needle-style torque wrench since I don't have access to one on this short notice. I've posted a photo to demonstrate why I need to change this yoke soon.



Thanks!
brandon.

 

Well when I had my jeep axles done for a simliar reason I had a pro do it for me. But as far as I know you should use a click or pointer torque whench. The pre-load on the bearings are very important! This setting is the slack given to the pinion and ring as well as the pinion bearings!

With the amount of torque you've shown I would do it right the first time! Nice One!

 

Missing some parts eh? It really would be worth your while to purchase a clicker type torque wrench, youll always have it and you will use it again. Its to critical to just guess at it.

 

Thanks guys!

I was under the impression that a clicker-type torque wrench wouldn't allow me to set the proper drag torque on it. I have a clicker style wrench and I'll use it.

On edit... the factory service manual states to tighten the pinion nut to 440-500 ft/lbs. That sounds awfully tight to me. So is this just a ratchet with a 10 foot cheater bar on it?

brandon.

 

yes and no. Most clicker type or beam pointer type tourque wrenches do not read that high. I have had to use a tourque multiplier once -- basically a gearbox type contraption that can multiply torque several times more than a wrench alone. I rented mine from a local tool supply/construction rental place. They had one model there that is used to pull drive sprockets onto bulldozer axles -- something like 5000 ft.lbs.!

 

The other thing you could do is try to locate a shop that repairs heavy equipment. See if they have a 3/4" or 1" drive torque wrench. You may be able to talk them into letting you use it for a minute in the parking lot, or see if one of the tool rental shops have one. One piece of advice though, eat your Wheaties for breakfast and spinach for dinner, everyday for one week prior. You will also need a big pipe wrench to hold the yoke while you torque the nut. Good luck.

 

If this is a model 80 rear diff, and you are only changing the yoke, don't bother to measure the preload, because it won't change. There are shims between the pinion bearings to change this, and if preload is too low, you likely need bearings.
Just change the yoke, a new nut would be preferable, as would be a pinion seal, and make it just as tight as you possibly can, with some loctite on the threads.

 

Thanks all! I appreciate the responses. After alot of research today, I figured out a few things. One, I have a Hybrid D80/70. Two, I haven't found any upgraded yokes that are readily available on Sunday. I'll make a few calls tomorrow and see what else I can find. Also, the shop I normally repair/build my truck in is a excavator mechanic's shop. Guess I wasn't thinking clearly. Thanks again to all!

brandon.

 

Done. Found a shop locally who had the yoke in stock.

FWIW, the equipment required for my dana 80 was a bearing splitter, 2 gear pullers, an 600ft/lb impact wrench, big hammers and a torch to get the shattered yoke off. Going on was easy; just drive 3 miles, return the gear pullers, borrow a 1-7/8" six point socket that fits _inside_ the new yoke, tighten, unload 300lbs of tractor weights behind the seat & return the socket.

Thanks once more to all who chimed in. I appreciate it!
brandon.