i just finished my valair fermic clutch and new heavy duty master/slave setup and the clutch will no fully disengage and it is extremely hard to put in gear at ideal i dont know what to do please help

 

is all the air bled out of the system?

try gravity bleeding the slave for a bit and see if any air comes out. just make sure to keep topping up the fluid.

 

these new master/slave setups are sealed no bleed screws i called and talked to valair and they said they have no idea other than if the fork is bent but it was working just fine when i took the other clutch out

 

i did cut the retainer straps on the slave but i didnt let it extend to far is that the problem????

 

If all else fails pull the trans and shim the pivot ball 110 to 115 thousands thats the way I use to fix the DD clutch from Mccloud.

 

110 to 115 thousands make a difference????

 

i can mill a extended bushing for the slave but i have no idea how long to make it

 

really? hmm im used to cable and hydraulic clutches for small trucks and cars.

 

My bet is that you do not actually have a heavy duty master/slave assy. Is it adjustable? I am on vacation this weak but I gave you a PM with my home phone number. Feel free to call me and I bet we can get your clutch in good working order. Trust me please, your fork is not bent.

Peter

 

i will try to call later i guess i dont want to wake you up because you are on vacation but they said it is the heavy duty kit from you accually it is ajustable on the master side and then there is a braided steel line that goes to the slave it "looks" more heavy duty than the stocker but i am still having the same problem i ajusted the master side from all the way in to all the way out and there was no difference

 

i just want to thank south bend for all the help i got it fixed

 

well what was it?????????

 

I spent quite a few years in the clutch and brake business and have seen many people put the disc in backwards. It's usually fairly hard to bolt the cover down this way but it happens. Is there any possibility this may have happened? Usually the flatest side of the disc goes towards the flywheel, if not then it will hit the flywheel and when you bolt it down the levers or diaphram on the cover will drop to far, won't release, can't shift etc., etc. It is also possible that air is in the M.cyl and/or Slave cyl. like Peter, I also doubt the fork is bent. If all else fails you can make an adjustable pushrod for the slave cyl. Keep in mind though most of the hydraulic systems on newer vehicles are not and don't need to be adjustable. As a matter of fact they use self centering T/O bearings because they constantly ride and lightly drag against the clutch diaphram or "fingers". One other item is sometimes burrs can form on the input shaft and keep the disc from floating back and forth. I always take emery cloth and clean the splines and absolutely no grease on the input shaft, it will attract dust and sling out onto the disc, flywheel and cover. Hope this helps

 

well i thought i had it fixed when i posted but its not peter told me to go beat on it and i did and in my driveway when i got back it would go from 1st to reverse with no problem i let it cool down and got in it this morning and it is doing the same thing so i think i am going to have to pull the tranny again and it is funny that you say not to have any grease on the input shaft because i put a little gease on the end to help slide it in the holeso maybe i am the reason this thing is being stupid so i am going to pull the tranny this week sometime and i will get back with yall

 

Remember to check the disc position and make sure it's not backwards. Something else I didn't mention is to be care and never force a tranny in with the bolts. If it doesn't slide in there may be a problem. I have seen cases too where a person used the bolts to get the tranny in that last inch or so and destroyed the pilot bearing or bushing which at least on one case caused a major problem trying to shift.