troubleshooting guide....




maybe this will help a little.

 

thanks anyway i guess i should have done a little more research before i tore into it the first time. I guess thats the way it goes.

 

I must be losing my mind - it's been a while since I replaced the Dana 80 pinion seal in my '98, but I sure thought it had a crush sleeve... I'm not at the shop or I'd look it up in the factory service manual for ya.

 

I may be blind also.

 

I read somewhere in some old posts that these were shimmed and to be torqued to 500 ft lbs. I wil do some more looking tommorow i need some sleep, work in 5 hours. Thanks alot for your help let you know what i come up with.

 

dana 80 is shimmed, the pinion nut is some where around 500 to 540 ftp torque if i rember right.
the best way to change the seal out is, before you take it apart, use a inch pound torque whench to get the turning set torque, this is dont by putting the whench on the pinion nut and turing it slow with the inch pound whench,rear wheels off the ground, then after the seal is replaced and tighten the pinion nut back to the inch pound setting that you had before taking it apart. I dont rember the setting but i will tey to find it and post that , there is a setting for new and used bearings
jman

 

found it


Pinion Bearing Preload

New bearings .15-35 in. lbs. ( 2-5 N.m ).
Original bearings 10-20 in. lbs. ( 1-3 N.m)

Nut Pinion-Minimum 450-500 ft. lbs. (597-678 Nm)

try backing off the nut and retighten it up to get the preload to match the 10 to 20 in.lbs setting and see what happens
jman

 

on all the rear ends i worked on the crush sleeve is in between your inner and outer pinion bearings and IF you over tighten the crush sleeve you must replace it or else you preload will never be right and you have to take your pinion out to replace the crush sleeve

 

Thanks for all the help. I went and ordered a new nut for the pinion today, be here tommorrow. jman is correct on the torque settings. The boys at the dealership( in laramie) were helpful and looked all of it up in the service manual for me. One note on the settings though is they are all supposed to be torqued with the carrier removed. Thats nice! Cant make it too simple. So now being a little more experienced in this matter, the procedure that jman outlined above would be highly recomended. So a little late for me, I get to do it the hard way. LIVE AND LEARN. I guess I should have jumped on here and learned a little bit more about this particular rear end but you know how testosterone is. Thanks again.