not starting when hot
not starting when hot
truck wont start after i drive it dodge said it the pump after 400 dollars worth and new cam secer and feed pump but if u disconect the feed pump it starts and runns plug it back in and away ya go runns great whats wrong that dodge cant figure out help thanks
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
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From: Waco, Texas
fill out your signature so we know what we're dealing with here. have you checked for any codes? any symptoms before all of this went down? we need some more info so we can better understand your situation in order to help you out.
almost sounds sensor related to an extent because of the heat issue. keep us posted.
almost sounds sensor related to an extent because of the heat issue. keep us posted.
PLEASE HELP ME!!!
I am having the same problem - starting my '03 when it is hot (or even warm). I have about 150,000 miles on this truck.
Actually, if I shut it off and within less than 2 or 3 minutes try to start it - it starts right up - every time - but if it is turned off and sets more than 10 minutes it will not start again - maybe only if it is very cold out and the truck sits idle all day.
Two different mechanics have run diag testing and both told me everything was @ normal while the truck was running or cold with it off.
After running it until it got warm one gave me this code from the warm engine scan [Po251 VP44]. both scans showed my fuel valve feedback circuit actuator. After being towed to and from a dodge dealer service area costing me over $200.00. [The Dealership admitted they never got it started for a proper diagnosis, but billed me $240.00 for the scan and a couple hours labor, anyway - which I guess was done in the lot where the tow dropped it -because, according to the tow driver a small piece of cardboard was stuck under the front tire and still in the same place when he picked it up - the truck never moved for 2 days].
I had it towed to another garage and running a 3d scan with it coming up in an error code - I had the fuel control actuator replaced, This mechanic got the truck started, running fine but again after running it until it got warm - waiting 10 minutes - it would not start. He can hear the in tank pump running when the engine is cranked.
The injectors were all replaced with new ones in March, 10, - my in tank pump was also replaced at that time.
I took it to the dodge dealer between the tests by these other mechanics and prior to replacing the actuator and like I said I believe the Dodge Boys ran tests, but never got the truck to start - so really couldn't do much but guess. They first told me that I need a new in tank pump - but I showed them that they had replaced that in March - less than 3,000 miles ago. Then new injectors was the remedy, but I showed them that these had been put in @ the same time as the pump. Then they really went for the gold - by suggesting the actuator @ $300.00, an Injector pump @$2600.00, a Fuel pressure limiting valve @ $700.00, and finally an engine control module @ $2200.00. [to up-grade Dodge service software] all be done @ once, to get it started and running properly. I guess you could call this the shot-gun approach.
I don't have $7000 plus labor - the mechanics are stumped, and I'm out in my driveway - unable to go to work, and looking at my beautiful but non-usable Dodge 2500 Diesel. I need to use this truck every day and still believe to be one very fine truck.
I am having the same problem - starting my '03 when it is hot (or even warm). I have about 150,000 miles on this truck.
Actually, if I shut it off and within less than 2 or 3 minutes try to start it - it starts right up - every time - but if it is turned off and sets more than 10 minutes it will not start again - maybe only if it is very cold out and the truck sits idle all day.
Two different mechanics have run diag testing and both told me everything was @ normal while the truck was running or cold with it off.
After running it until it got warm one gave me this code from the warm engine scan [Po251 VP44]. both scans showed my fuel valve feedback circuit actuator. After being towed to and from a dodge dealer service area costing me over $200.00. [The Dealership admitted they never got it started for a proper diagnosis, but billed me $240.00 for the scan and a couple hours labor, anyway - which I guess was done in the lot where the tow dropped it -because, according to the tow driver a small piece of cardboard was stuck under the front tire and still in the same place when he picked it up - the truck never moved for 2 days].
I had it towed to another garage and running a 3d scan with it coming up in an error code - I had the fuel control actuator replaced, This mechanic got the truck started, running fine but again after running it until it got warm - waiting 10 minutes - it would not start. He can hear the in tank pump running when the engine is cranked.
The injectors were all replaced with new ones in March, 10, - my in tank pump was also replaced at that time.
I took it to the dodge dealer between the tests by these other mechanics and prior to replacing the actuator and like I said I believe the Dodge Boys ran tests, but never got the truck to start - so really couldn't do much but guess. They first told me that I need a new in tank pump - but I showed them that they had replaced that in March - less than 3,000 miles ago. Then new injectors was the remedy, but I showed them that these had been put in @ the same time as the pump. Then they really went for the gold - by suggesting the actuator @ $300.00, an Injector pump @$2600.00, a Fuel pressure limiting valve @ $700.00, and finally an engine control module @ $2200.00. [to up-grade Dodge service software] all be done @ once, to get it started and running properly. I guess you could call this the shot-gun approach.
I don't have $7000 plus labor - the mechanics are stumped, and I'm out in my driveway - unable to go to work, and looking at my beautiful but non-usable Dodge 2500 Diesel. I need to use this truck every day and still believe to be one very fine truck.
I suspect the solder on the VP44 computer is breaking down under heat. This is a common failure due to heat. After it sits for a while after running is when the under hood temps start breaking it down. A lot of times it wont show a code because the solder cools and makes connection again. If it does show a code, it is probably a 216 which just means the housing is wore out. It shouldnt affect driveability, just less hp and mpg's. I just replaced mine with a VP44x from Bluechip. I would reccommend going to Bluechips website and reading up on it. Very informative.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
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