No start / Fuel problem?
No start / Fuel problem?
I drove home the other day and everything was working fine. I have never had a problem with my 94 CTD.
Tried to start the next day with no success. Very strong cranking with all appropriate dash instrumentation working. I have cracked the bleeder valve on the filter and manually pumped clean fuel out of it. I cracked several lines at the injector with fuel present but no emerging during cranking.
Where do I start? I am not very familiar with the system but am willing to work on it. Could this be a pumping problem (fuel, lifter or injector) or should I replace the fuel pump relay (something electrical)?
Again the truck was running finewith no indication of trouble...it was even 60 degrees here the other day in Pennsylvania. The truck is sitting in my driveway and I will not need to tow with it for another couple of weeks. So I have a little time.
Could someone please point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance
Adam Karr
Tried to start the next day with no success. Very strong cranking with all appropriate dash instrumentation working. I have cracked the bleeder valve on the filter and manually pumped clean fuel out of it. I cracked several lines at the injector with fuel present but no emerging during cranking.
Where do I start? I am not very familiar with the system but am willing to work on it. Could this be a pumping problem (fuel, lifter or injector) or should I replace the fuel pump relay (something electrical)?
Again the truck was running finewith no indication of trouble...it was even 60 degrees here the other day in Pennsylvania. The truck is sitting in my driveway and I will not need to tow with it for another couple of weeks. So I have a little time.
Could someone please point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance
Adam Karr
There are several immediate things to look for. The fuel solenoid is a good call. So is the overflow valve on a 94. Look on the inside of the injection pump, where the fuel return line is connected. You will see a banjo fitting on the return line with a through-bolt to the injection pump. If that bolt has only one head replace it with a new two piece head type from Cummins. Then figure you set a record for how long the OEM overflow valve lasted, as most failed in the first year.
The other common issues are a plugged screen in the fuel heater, a lot of people forget to change them and they simply corrode shut and plug in cold weather; old fuel hoses are another common problem.
Then there is routine filter and fuel maintenance. Make sure you have treated the fuel in the tank to keep if from forming ice crystals, and be sure the fuel filter is clean. Both will plug in cold weather if the fuel has the smallest amount of water.
The other common issues are a plugged screen in the fuel heater, a lot of people forget to change them and they simply corrode shut and plug in cold weather; old fuel hoses are another common problem.
Then there is routine filter and fuel maintenance. Make sure you have treated the fuel in the tank to keep if from forming ice crystals, and be sure the fuel filter is clean. Both will plug in cold weather if the fuel has the smallest amount of water.
Thanks for the advice
The shutoff solenoid was not functioning properly. It was not in the up position with the ignition on. It did howeever let me push it up and stay there. The truck started fine after that.
After shutdown again though the same problem.
Should I
Replace the solenoid?
Repair the solenoid? (Is this even possible)
Replace the Relay?
Is there a way to test the relay or troubleshoot this farther?
Thanks again, it was real nice to hear the diesel fire up again.
Adam
After shutdown again though the same problem.
Should I
Replace the solenoid?
Repair the solenoid? (Is this even possible)
Replace the Relay?
Is there a way to test the relay or troubleshoot this farther?
Thanks again, it was real nice to hear the diesel fire up again.
Adam
Mr T is correct, most common cause of the problem you are having is a corroded blue wire at the driver's battery. Sometimes it's corroded under the insulation where you can't see it.
Most often the fix only involves cutting off the corroded part and crimping on a new connector.
You might also need to replace the relay with one from http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Never replace the solenoid unless it's visibly burnt up. They are a sturdy unit that should last the life of the truck. They are also the most often needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too. The dealer loves to replace them when throwing parts at a problem.
Most often the fix only involves cutting off the corroded part and crimping on a new connector.
You might also need to replace the relay with one from http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Never replace the solenoid unless it's visibly burnt up. They are a sturdy unit that should last the life of the truck. They are also the most often needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too. The dealer loves to replace them when throwing parts at a problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CoolumConst
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
9
Oct 11, 2008 10:00 PM
tyssniffen
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
3
Mar 26, 2006 07:15 PM



