maybe this too
CUMMINS PART NUMBERS
CM 3918673 $19.57 Timing Cover Gasket
CM 3804899 $26.89 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
CM 3900257 $1.60 Dowel Pin
CU 3823494 $10.22 Silver Three Bond RTV Silicone Adhesive/Sealant (3oz)


DODGE PART NUMBER
04429257 $ ? Dowel Pin


NEW BOLT
Original bolt is ¾ inches long.
Longer bolt to secure Tab = 8m x 1.25 x 25mm
Get hardened bolt Grade 8 (goldish iridescent color)
Dimension of above bolt = 8m (diameter) x 1.25 (thread count) x 25mm (length)
Torque new bolt to 18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds) and use Thread lock.


CHECK OTHER BOLTS INSIDE TIMING COVER
Camshaft Torque Plate (through the 3 holes in the Camshaft Gear)
Oil Pump Gear Plate (lower left gear - 7 o'clock position)
Torque bolts inside Timing Cover to 18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds) and use Thread lock.


TIMING/GEAR COVER BOLTS (OUTSIDE)
18 to 22 foot-pounds (216 inch-pounds).

 

dowel pin has already killed the timing case. I need a step by step replacement procedure as well as a source for the cheap parts. I have seen the "rough draft" "just the basics" version of the fix that is shown n the links many times. I find it helpful and have already started using it as a guideline. I would like to know if there is a step by step (more detailed) description of the fix available. I have searched all over the fuxxin place for a new timing gear housing and cannot seem to find anything of the sort new or used on the web anywhere. What is it actually called? What is the part # Where can I get it? Tonight I pulled the bumper and the rad as well as the Ic and the TC I know all about securing the lifters so I can pulllthe cam Im going todo it tomorrow. HELP!

 

If you get a used case your going to have't to have the tst kit and its got the detailed instructions that you are looking for, now if get a new case it will be updated and you will not need the kit. Are tring to find a used case or are wanting it new?

 

maybe this
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/96specs.html

 

I think it is actually called the inner cover. I have a picture that shows this as the name of it in my picture folder on my computer but I don't know how to get on here.

 

go to www.newdodgeparts.com and a search on your truck or just type in inner cover at the serch for parts area it will bring up a picture and names each part.

 

The parts needed are what texasdiesel listed plus the timing gear case which is available from Cummins for around $400.
Sorry I don't have the part number.
The outline linked to is the best I've seen and even though not detailed is more than enough to get the job done. About the only things they don't mention is the torque values and the fact that you have to remove the lift pump or it will catch when removing the cam.

Most Cummins shops no longer remove the cam when replacing the case, cuts about $600 off the bill, you don't have to take the front end all apart. First turn the engine till the line up marks on the gears are lined up. A high quality three prong puller (Snap On is best) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special Cummins puller made just for it that works way better. The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.

The gear can be heated in two ways, 1) Toaster oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2) Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. Set the temp around 300 F. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the meantime you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and get stuck half way.

You need an extra hand for a few minutes to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump (don't drop the pump actuator arm into the crankcase!) and using a pry bar on the cam lobe, apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam can move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp welding gloves and slide the gear back on, sometimes might have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer.

I would only recommend this to someone with experience. Sounds a little complicated but is way easier. There are three draw backs: 1) gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2) Not aligning the crank and cam; 3) Allowing the cam to move back and pushing out the rear cam plug, then you will have to pull the engine.

Some people think this method causes a weaker fit for the gear but Cummins has been using this method exclusively for several years, I've never heard of a problem

 

Noooo! Not again! Not me!

Infidel, that is an interesting way to do it. Being an old machinist it should work. Lining up the shaft & the gear it where the money is at. Is it keyed or just marked in someway?

 

The gears all have line up marks except for the timing gear, you have to mark that yourself. The cam gear has a mark but you have to be sure not to rotate the cam to get it in the correct position as it will go on in any position. My friend at Cummins scratches a mark the cam shaft end and gear at 12 o'clock to assure it hasn't moved.

 

$383.00 from the site I listed above, brandnew. It is called the inner cover on this site though.

 

I'd be nervous about getting the cam gear back on the cam in EXACTLY the same place, if the gear isn't indexed to it somehow. If it's out even a degree or less, it'll change how the engine runs.

 

My timing case has a crack at the bottom, passenger side, a couple inches from the far right edge (as viewed from driver's seat). Not sure if this was caused by the dowel pin or not (have never pulled the cover to see if it was done by PO). Can't see under the idler pulley well enough to see if there's a crack there too. The entire cover seeps/leaks all the way around and needs a new gasket no matter what. I get a little bit of oil dripping, but it's apparently been like this for some time... My truck has sat for extended periods on black asphalt so I had not noticed it until I had to come out to my current "job" where I drove cross-country from NM.

Anyway, need to know if anyone knows of a reputable Cummins mechanic in the Tampa, FL area as that is where I am currently working for a while... I am being housed in an apartment complex so my ability to do much of my own work is limited.

If I cannot find a reputable (and affordable) Cummins mechanic, I might be forced to just pull the cover, remove/repair the dowel pin, and silicone the crack until I can get back home.

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Dave

 

Hey olensam I had the same thing We took everything off down too the timing case. We ground it down around where the KDP did its damaged checked all the gears realized they were fine and then JB welded that bad boy back together. We then put a new gasket in and everything put it all back together no more oil and like a 6 hour job excluding the 24hour setup time of JB weld. IT is pretty easy though. I hope this helps Ben.

 

I had to do the same thing to mine dude! Its not fun or easy! If you do it yourself you need to get 12 or 24 1/2 inch dowel rods(depending on your engine) and cut a slice in the ends of them long ways. then take the rack off all cyl and remove the push rods and drive your dowels in your lifters, then REMOVE you lift pump!!!!! and lift up all the dowles, MAKE **** SURE YOU HAVE THEM IN ALL THE WAY!!! and weave a bungee cord through them take the cam out and replace your front cam bearing while your there. and put her back together!

 

Thanks!

Turns out I just had a VERY leaky seal. I cleaned it off completely and the "crack" turned out to be a seam in the casting of the timing case. It was very pronounced seam, but just a seam. Got the TST kit in the mail this week and that will go in in a couple weeks when I have a Sat free to tear into the front end...