Southern Pride

well ive been workin on this dang thing for a while, which is another story, anyhoo, got it done tonight, everything bolted up, and truck wont turn over. now, i had like three connectors from the old auto wire harness, that wouldnt plug into anything, dont know if i need to put a jumper wire in any of those or what??? also, theres a clutch switch/plug right where the slave cylinder rod comes through the fire wall, there wasnt any place to plug that part into either. also, i cant remember how to bleed a clutch. the slave cylinder was fairly new, and when i installed it, i made sure that the slave cylinder rod was seated in the right place on the throw out bearing mechanism (cant remeber what that part was called). well its late, and i finally got the truck back together, but was dissappointed when she wouldnt turn over. and the batteries are fine; 14month old red top ultimas. any body got any advice to help me out here. thanks in advance

johnh

do you mean the engine will not start? or like its froze up?

pind

You might need to jumper the neutral start switch for the auto tranny, figure out if its one of the three plugs that don't plug into anything, and give it a shot.

Southern Pride

the engine aint froze up, just wont turn over at all. i guess i could find out which plug has the neutral/park feature on it, and put a jumper on it. didnt think about that. thanks. any other suggesstions on the clutch issue. like i said before, the slave cylinder rod is seated properly in the clutch fork, and everything is tight, but the pedal feels like its pushing almost nothing. im assuming that there is air in the line maybe? if so how do you bleed it out.

Southern Pride

anyone else have any suggesstions on bleeding the clutch. i did some searches on the internet, and most of them said that there is a bleeder valve down near the slave cylinder by the bell housing, and you basically just bleed it like you do the brakes: push in the pedal, crack the bleeder, close bleeder, let off pedal, continue until you get good pedal pressure, while keeping the resevoir filled with brake fluid. does this sound right anyone? any better/easier/more efficient suggesstions.
thanks all

patdaly

I just looked at the service manual for my truck, it says it is a non-serviceable part, thus no bleeding.

I would almost bet though that the slave cyl. is available at the aftermarket, and that would have to be a bleeding unit. I will look around for you.

patdaly

For 2002 from Rock Auto:

2002 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5.9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo (6) : Clutch : Clutch Slave Cylinder Print Save My Place
Item Price Core Total
RHINO PAC Part # S0517 More Info
Cummins engine; 6 speed trans. $39.79 $0.00 $39.79
CENTRIC Part # 13867010 $40.79 $0.00 $40.79
ACDELCO Part # 386453 {#19183328}
CYLINDER,CLU SLV [US vehicles] $71.79 $0.00 $71.79

For a 1997 ( all were 5 speeds )

CENTRIC Part # 13867008 $44.79 $0.00 $44.79
WAGNER Part # SC130546 {Clutch Slave Cylinder}$48.79 $0.00 $48.79
RAYBESTOS Part # SC360051 {Professional Grade}$52.79 $0.00 $52.79

DORMAN Part # CS360051 More Info {First Stop}$34.79 $0.00 $34.79
ACDELCO Part # 386427 {#19183302}
CYLINDER,CLU SLV [US vehicles] $78.99 $0.00 $78.99

That might get you going cheaper than buying the whole assy........

Southern Pride

wow, thanks for the responses! i did the jumper wire, and truck fired right up. easy enough!! yeah, i looked at the slave cylinder when i got home from work and its a non serviceable unit, so i guess if i buy a new slave cylinder, it will have a bleeder valve on it? im pretty sure if i got another one from the factory it will be the whole assembly. i guess i need to look at that info you gave me pat. thanks. ill have to look at it at work tomorrow.

pind

wait a minute

if you have to bleed the clutch, do this.

Push the clutch to the floor, and let it back up all the way, do this slowly, several times. then, push the clutch pedal to the floor, and use a rod, brush, 2x4 or whatever you have to hold the pedal down. leave it like that overnight, then try it again in the morning. most times, this will allow the clutch system to self-bleed the air back to the top.

Southern Pride

no kidding, ill do that before i go to work and see if it will help. thanks

patdaly

pind, great idea! I would have never thought to try that.

SP, let us know if it worked, because if it does ( and I have no reason to think it wont ) I will add it to my bag of tricks.

God I love this forum!

blackdiesel

You can take the slave off and push the rod in. This will push the air out, and when you letl go, pull fluid in. do this a couple time and it's bled.

Southern Pride

well i went into work this morn, tor drop my trailor off for one of the majors, turned around, went home, and started pumping the pedal slower than i was doin last night, and i would just hold it down for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, release it slowly. did this about 7 or 8 times, i did get some pedal pressure, so i pushed it all the way in, and braced it. ill check it when i get home this evening and report back. i also did the key trick and got these 3 codes: P0753
P0713
P1765
can any of yall direct me somewhere where i can look these codes up.

this forum is pretty dang good!!

Southern Pride

never mind guys, i pulled my head out and just did a search on here and found that list of codes. heres what follows: P0713: Trans Temp Sensor Voltage Too High, Transmission fluid temperature sensor input above acceptable voltage. Was MIL code 37.

P0753 (M) Trans 3-4 Shift Sol/Trans Relay
Circuits
An open or shorted condition detected in the overdrive
solenoid control circuit or Trans Relay Circuit in JTEC RE
transmissions. Was MIL code 45.

P0753 (M) Trans 3-4 Shift Sol/Trans Relay
Circuits
An open or shorted condition detected in the transmission
2-4 shift solenoid circuit (4-speed auto. trans. only).


P1765 (M) Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL
Circuit
An open or shorted condition is detected in the
Transmission Relay control circuit. This relay supplies
power to the TCC

P1765 (M) Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl
Circuit
Current state of solenoid output port is different than
expected (4-speed auto. trans. only).


i was just wonderin if i put jumpers on all the other left over connectors that that would fix the running at only 2000 rpms now.

patdaly

I "thought" you had to have the right PCM as well...... Perhaps someone here can tell us if you could just have yours reflashed.

I don't believe you will get jumpers to work for those, they are looking for more than a on-off condition I "think"