The pump is running every time I bump it. I'm just not getting fuel at the banjo bolt. So, I'm on to trying the injector lines, and I assume I need to tighten the BB before doing so.

Thanks!

 

If you are not getting fuel at the filter cannister, opening the injector lines is not going to do you any good. You will have to keep bumping it until you get fuel at the cannister. If the pump is running you should eventually get fuel there. Make sure the cannister is full of fuel. I have bled mine by loosening the small plug on the top of the cannister. It is the highest point so it is a good place to bleed the air out. It is unlikely that your lift pump went bad while changing the fuel filter.

 

I can hear the pump for the 25 secs, but no fuel. I cracked line 1 and bumped it a few times, no fuel came out....it has a new IP so I'm not going to screw that up through all this, am I?!

We have a FP guage and I have noticed it delayed to come up from 0 upon starting (my husband thinks it just needs to warm up initially), and it has dipped way down at times and then come up again, but there didn't seem to be any power problems associated with that. I could be wrong but this may be the original pump (it's awfully crusty looking, truck came from MI) and we have 121,000 on the truck! I'm just bummed to think that everything was "fine" until I changed the filter!

Betsy

 

Now that tells me you have an air leak. You are going to have to check all the lines and fittings all the way back to the fuel tank. Look for oily dirt on the fuel lines, that is a sign you have a leak. I replaced all my lines with the Smart Fuel system. I highly recommend it. Anyhow, there is a plastic line that mates with a metal line, the connection is just about under the driver seat against the frame, check that connection. Also the connection that goes directly into the tank. It sounds like it has sucked air into the lift pump and cannot get enough fuel to prime the pump. You will have to find the air leak and fix that before you can get the pump primed. Hopefully it doesn't damage the lift pump by running dry. The rotor and vanes are metal and they can overheat and cause scarring if they are run dry. Find the air leak and while you are under there run rubber fuel line from the tank to the pump. Check out my gallery for pictures of the Smart Fuel system. It replaces the stock pump and flows much more fuel. I have 15 PSI consistently.

 

This is exactally what i was going to say.......Bump the engine and let the LP run...it will force fuel to the injectors and force the air out of the VP-44....but top off the new stock filter with fuel, ATF (IF IN A PINCH ONLY!!!), or Sea Foam to displace the air. Let that lil LP run for about 3 mins or so...and you should be just fine when tryng to start.

 

The lift pump will only run for about 25 seconds when the starter is bumped. You can't make it run for 3 mins unless you run a jumper. Running the LP dry for that long will definitely fry it. The pump rotor and vanes are all polished metal and if run dry they burn and score.

 

Correct....BUT if you keep bumping the engine....you can make it run for 3 mins. You can hear the tone change in the LP when it catches fuel. If you catch prime....run it for 3 mins, and you should be good. IF you have to crack an injector line...i want to say that #3 (OR #4) is the one that will flow fuel the best when the LP is run to bleed the lines. Once you see fuel dribble out of the line at the head....tighten it up and this will at least give you one cyl that will be hitting to help catch the others. I have noted this from the numerious VP-44 changes i have had the pleasure of doing for many lucky Cummins owners! BUT this should really never be needed for a filter change!