I've screwed something up. Was doing some front end work and left the key in the "on" position to unlock steering wheel. It was probably on overnight.

Went to try and start and it will turn over but not fire. I tried holding the fuel shut off solenoid up and it held one time but now it won't even stay up after I manually move it. I tried to hold it up while my wife tried to start it and nothing too.

Checked the visible fuses and couldn't see any bad. Checked them with Ohm meter and okay too.

WHAT DID I DO AND HOW DO I FIX IT? I can turn wrenches but with electronics I don't know.

Any help very much appreciated.

Paul

 

Big time guessing here. But have you charged the batteries? The ECM needs enough power to run and tell it to send fuel.

 

You may be "new to CTD" but good thought. I threw it on the charger before I came to work to get to the computer. I see what that does too.

I'm doing some searches and have either fried the shut off solenoid or the shut-off relay I think. Ones easy if O'Reiley's is open tomorrow the others not.

 

What sort of front end work?

 

Upper/lower ball joints, rotors and new pads.

 

Yeah, doubtful you hit something or knocked something loose doing that.

Here's a link to a post on the site with a wire diagram of the starting circuit:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...88&postcount=9

I'll see if I can find the exact location of the fusible link. But, like I'm sure your searches have revealed, I'd start with the blue wire that goes to the relay. I would still think that with everything mechanical on the pump and you holding the fuel shutoff UP, it should start? I can understand it falling down after you let go and then dying, but while you are holding it up, it should run. Crack a line and make sure you have fuel, because you should holding that fuel shut off up.

 

Your fusible link is on the blue wire coming from the positive post of the driver's side battery, about 3 inches down the wire it gets fatter, that's your link.

 

Thanks Satburn. I thought that was it, but was black. Maybe it's been replaced some years ago.

I'll let the batteries charge up and see in the morning. Thanks.

Paul

 

check ur batteries and charge them up to full...if its crankin at full speed then pump the go pedal a few times while cranking that will usually do it...

 

Checked several things this AM.

Fuel shut off relay OK. Continuity between 85 and 86. With power to the relay there is continuity between 30 and 87. Battery voltage to the relay as well.

Checked three wire lead to solenoid. 12 V with key in "on" position but only 8+ V at lead with cranking before changing batteries.

I replaced the batteries. Funny thing was, both batteries said "Mopar" on top. I think they were the original batteries. Not bad 9 years and Wisconsin winters. If anyone thinks that battery blankets aren't worth it I argue with them.

After holding up solenoid to run position it will now start. Obviously I have to manually shut off the solenoid.

Am I correct now in assuming that the solenoid is shot? I'd hate to drop $$ on a non-returnable part.

Let me know if I've worked this one through correctly and have come to the right conclusion.

Lesson learned - When the manual says disconnect batteries before beginning, believe it.

 

Most importantly, you can now make your hook, so all is saved.

Your thought process is correct. Do remember there are 2 thing to consider with electricity; voltage and amperage. Voltage = Pressure, Amperage = Amount of Flow. This is where clean contacts are crucial. You can have a good amount of voltage (push), but low amperage (flow or quantity) which without flow your solenoid may not operate correctly. If you've validated all your connections are good, then the next thing I'd do is pull that solenoid and test it. Does it still have the rubber protective boot on it? Does it operate freely when you move it by hand? You can continue your ohm/continuity checks on the windings of the coil on the solenoid to validate an open condition, that would confirm your diagnosis.

 

don't buy the solenoid...check the blue wire running from the solenoid for cracks, corrosion or full out disconnection...check the fuel shut off relay as well...just swap it with another one and try cranking...10 second experiment

 

Thanks for above thoughts. I haven't had time to check the solenoid itself but may need to order one before the weekend.

The new batteries do seem to spin the starter better too.

With the solenoid is there suppose to continuity (no resistance) between the ignition lead and ground and the red/violet line from the relay and ground? And when in the shut off position no continuity?

Paul

 

The solenoid is nothing more than an electric magnet with 2 sets of windings in it according to the diagram. One set to help pull it up while cranking and a second set that holds it up while you're running down the road. The windings do not have a switch inside them, their internal circuit should stay "closed" regardless of being energized or not. So, you should have some continuity in them with the solenoid in either the up or down position. I don't have a spec on them, perhaps someone else does, as to how much resistance they should have. But if either winding tests open (infinity), then it is bad.