I know there are a lot of posts on here already about this frequent problem. I've had my 96 12 valve for about a month now and already replaced the switch once with a factory replacement from the local junkyard. Then after about two weeks my taillights and dash cluster lights went out again. Any ideas for solving this problem completely?

 

There was a TSB on these, but only for the 3500's. The TSB consisted of a relay kit that wired into the headlight kit. I put one on my 95, 2500, and never had a problem. Sorry I don't have the TSB, or part number, but I'm sure someone here will pipe in with them.

 

It was actually a recall for 3500s only http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/819.htm

 

Thanks for the info guys...if anyone out there has the p/n for the harness that was used for the 3500's please let me know. My truck is a daily driver and I have to drive after dark a lot. So if anyone has any more suggestions, that might be able to help besides the ones already up it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again

 

I had the recall done (#819) on my 3500 and the part numbers listed are:

CAJM8190 - WIRING REP
CARK7092 - SLEEVE

They do not look like regular part numbers to me but that is what is on my invoice. Maybe it will help. I am not sure if this is what you need.

 

According to the recall link the whole kit is p/n CAJM8190 - Headlamp Switch package

 

Costs about $130, too.

 

I may well be wrong, but aren't recalls (not TSBs) good for the life of the vehicle? No matter how many miles and/or owners?

 

Yes but is application specific.

 

You are correct. Recalls are forced upon manufacturers by the federal government for safety reasons and are free for the life of the vehicle.
TSBs are just service bulletins distributed for dealer mechanics to alert them of known problems and how to fix them.
Many people think TSBs are free but that's only the case if the vehicle is under warranty.

 

I have repaced several swithches on my '94. I also installed a relay before DC came out with a TSB that replaced the switch wirig with heavier gauge wire.
HOWEVER, the real problem IMHO opinion, comes from driving at night with the dash lights on the lowest setting. THe rheostat overheats and fries the wires on the running/sash light circuit.
Just don't turn down the dash lights!

 

I believe my problem is in the fuse block. How can I get to the back of the fuse panel to scope out the sockets?