Truck has become very hard to warm up. Truck will start but if I don't let warm up for a while it will blow white smoke and stumble when I take off until it warms up. I am thinking maybe the grid heater or heater solenoids is not functioning properly. Once it is warm the normal "Coal Train" is back in action. LOL.... No other issues.

I did a head gasket replacement about 3K miles ago. I checked the obvious...... Coolant level is good. Oil level is good. No oil in the water. No water in the oil. It seems when I first bought the truck I used to be able to take off right after I started the truck up in the colder months.....

Any suggestions on what to check? I know the grid heater is coming on because I can hear them and see my headlight dim when it is dark out.

This condition will happen any time my truck is not warm. Not just in the morning. It is time for me to change my fuel filter. Could a overly dirty filter cause this issue?

Thanks....

 

bad injector possibly. get um pop tested or just put a new set in.

 

Ak the injectors only have about 6000 miles on them. Truck runs excellent through the entire RPM range.

Thanks for the reply.....

 

My guess would be compression is getting low. How is the oil consumption? How much blow-by from the breather tube? Usually if an injector is bad you'll have a slight engine knock or if it bleeds down while shutting off it will hammer at startup.

 

Diezel I had the compression checked a year ago and all cylinders where normal. Oil consumption is normal and I do not have any excessive blow by. When ever my truck is cold I can get it to fire up with just a little pedal and then just have to feather the pedal for a few seconds then it will idle fine. If I try to take off after 30 seconds it will billow white smoke and spit and spudder for about 45 seconds until I can get it cleared out. Once warm the truck has no issues and tons of power.

I have read on this site somewhere if my fuel heater was leaking that is cause this? I just did a head gasket at the end of 07. Maybe I did not tighten a fuel line/injector all the way down? Thanks for the post....

Dave

 

yea i still have a fuel leak and it makes mine hard to start up also. recheck the timing also.

 

Add some cetane boost. Your problems sound like some bad fuel; once the engine is warmed up it can make up for poor quality fuel but when it's cold you have a different story.

Good luck.

 

Well I double checked all fuel lines and everything is tight. No visible leaks anywhere. If I had a intake leak right under the intake manifold would this cause the hard cold starts/poor running until warm issue? Thanks....

 

Had a 5.7L stumble, miss, and smoke. Replaced the fuel pump and filter, ***** was back to normal.

 

I would check low pressure lift pump, here's diag procedure. Good Luck

The Bosch P7100 inline fuel injection pump may be affected by fuel supply pressure variation. If the fuel supply pressure is low or pulsates excessively, the following symptoms can occur:

Low rpm miss/instability
White smoke
Hard starting
Low power
DIAGNOSIS:
This bulletin contains diagnostic information supplemental to 1994,1995, and 1996 Ram Truck Service Manuals and should assist in the diagnosis and correction of the above Symptoms/Conditions.

Verify that the fuel shutdown solenoid linkage is properly adjusted. Improper adjustment could affect fuel delivery in the injection pump. Refer to the 1996 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No. 81-370-6108), page 14-106, regarding fuel shutdown solenoid shaft adjustment.
Verify that the fuel transfer/lift pump supply pressure to the injection pump is within specifications. Normal fuel transfer/lift pump pressure specifications are 17 - 22 psi at idle and of 25 - 35 psi at 2500 rpm (no load).
Place a drain pan below injection pump.
Remove banjo bolt and gaskets from fuel inlet line fitting at side of injection pump ( Figure 1).
Install Special Tool 6976 and tool gaskets from tool kit 6977 in place of the banjo bolt ( Figure 2). Tighten tool into injection pump.
Install a 0-60 or 0-100 psi fuel pressure gauge to adapter tool 6976 ( Figure 2).
Start and warm engine and record fuel pressure. Pressure should be 117-152 kPa (17-22 psi) at idle speed. A minimum of 172 kPa (25 psi) should be indicated after raising engine speed to its rated rpm (2,500 rpm) with no load.
If supply pressure is less than 17 psi at idle or 25 psi at 2500 rpm (no load), restrict the fuel return hose by pinching the hose ( Figure 3). If pressure returns to normal or above, replace the overflow valve with a new valve (P/N 04883838AA). The overflow valve is located on the side of the injection pump ( Figure 4).
NOTE: High pressure at idle indicates that there is a restriction. Make sure that the overflow valve is located at the pump outlet, not the pump inlet ( Figure 4).

To install the new overflow valve, remove the overflow valve from the pump. A clean lint free rag should be placed beneath the valve to catch excess fuel. Install the new valve and torque the valve to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs).
NOTE: ALWAYS USE NEW RUBBER COATED SEALING WASHERS (P/N 4761245) WHEN REPLACING THE OVERFLOW VALVE.

If the supply pressure remains low with the return line restricted, check for inlet restrictions between the tank and the injection pump (such as pinched fuel lines, dirty pre-filter, and/or primary filter, etc.). If no inlet restriction is found, a faulty fuel transfer/lift pump is indicated. Refer to the 1996 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No. 81-370-6108), page 14-107 and 14-108, for information regarding fuel transfer/lift pump removal and installation procedures.
Fuel supply pressure should be checked after every corrective action. Refer to the 1996 Ram Truck Service Manual (Publication No. 81-370-6108), page 9-14 through 9-20, for further information regarding diesel engine performance testing.
NOTE: WHENEVER THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP IS REPLACED OR REMOVED FOR CALIBRATION, USE NEW RUBBER COATED SEALING WASHERS (P/N 4761245) ON THE INLET FUEL LINES AND ON THE OVERFLOW VALVE. ALSO, MAKE SURE A NEW OVERFLOW VALVE (P/N 4883838AA) IS INSTALLED WITH THE INSTALLATION OF A NEW FUEL INJECTION PUMP. THE ORIGINAL OVERFLOW VALVE MUST STAY WITH THE ORIGINAL INJECTION PUMP.

 

Big Iron thanks for the info. Truck has those symptoms but only when cold. Never once it is warmed up.....

I went snowmobiling today and after I got back to my truck and loaded up I started the truck up and once again as I take off the truck was popping and sputtering unit I really hammer down on the throttle. It eventually clears its self out then runs fine.

Lift pump, over flow valve are 1 year old. Injection pump was rebuilt one year ago as well. All new rubber fuel lines. No visible leaks anywhere on injectors or pump. Truck does have a hard time starting if it is in the 30's and 40's. Grid heater are working fine. Once started if I was to give it some throttle it will billow white smoke so thick its like fog......

The best way to describe my truck when it is cold is the same effect I have with my 4K spring kit. If I try to rev my truck past 3200 RPM's it will spit and sputter. Piers diesel told me I need larger DV's to support the 4K kit. So in the morning the truck cuts out like I am revving it past 3200 RMP's with TON's of white smoke.....

I will put on a new fuel filter in the morning. Be nice if it was something as simple as a really dirty filter....

Thanks for all the help guys....

 

Are your intake heaters working well? I had one on my 94 that took a crap. Lights would go dim, WTS light would come on, but the heater element itself wouldn't get hot!! Took me a few weeks to figure out what was going on. I had power at the terminals, but apparently something burned inside of it and it wouldn't let the actual element heat up. Replaced, problem solved. I don't know if it helps, but it may be worth a shot.

I pulled the intake off and turned on the key - nothing hot.

Good luck.

 

htrex I will double check the intake to make sure. Thanks...

 

How big of a leak? If it's big enough, cold air comes in there and will not get heated by the grid. Just a thought.

 

Ok, I may have figured something out..... My fuel shut off solenoid should be pulling up when I start correct? I does not, and still starts? And my grid heater solenoids get hot on the battery side but not on the grid side. So I might have two problems......???