Hello, I am a new Dodge guy and am trying to change the fuel filter on a 1999 Cummins 24V

I have not a clue how to remove the filter canister, there is a deep hole on the underside and appears there is a bolt going thru it?

Any pictures or instructions would be great.

Thanks you!

 

If it's like my '99, there is a single bolt on top and one electical plug on the cannister. You have to hold the cannister up with one hand, or it will fall. I release a little fuel out of the cannister and slowly work it up and out. If you can, save the fuel, or have enough handy to refill the cannister and it will prime easier. In case you don't know, you prime it by "bumping" the starter two or three times. When the VP is full, the pump will have a slight pulsating sound. If it still doesn't want to start, crack the lines at injectors 3 and 5 and bump the starter a couple of more times or until you have fuel to the injector.
Don't bump the starter with any fuel lines loose, other then cracked at the injectors, or you will have diesel everywhere.

 

Check here:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm

Step 1: Drain the filter using the valve.

Prop a 1 quart oil bottle on top of the front differential to catch fuel from the drain tube.
Open the drain and immediately loosen the housing nut enough to loosen the housing. The fuel will siphon if you don't "break the seal". After that just let it hang there for a minute until the housing empties.
Step 2: Disconnect the water sensor connector.

Using a long screwdriver, gently/slightly raise the end of the retaining clip and slide it off.
Step 3: Loosen canister retaining nut on header while holding canister (9/16" wrench).

The filter may stick to the top bracket and dribble fuel all over everything if it is not popped free from the bracket before removing the canister.
Step 4: Twist and remove old filter cartridge from canister

Step 5: Clean the canister and wipe the gasket surface on the bracket.

Step 6: Lubricate gasket and O-ring and then install on new filter cartridge.

Step 7: "Replace center O-ring with new one provided.

Step 8: Install new filter cartridge in canister.

Step 9: Pre-Fill the canister with fuel.

Some skip this and fill later by removing both plugs from the top and filling through one of the open ports.
Step 10: Install canister on header with drain aligned as shown, and tighten retaining nut to 10 ft-lbs.

Step 11: Reconnect water sensor electrical connector.

Step 12: Prime fuel system.

Loosen the test port fitting towards the front of the engine (closest to the center) on the top of the housing. This is the "outlet" test port.
"Bump" the starter without letting the engine start. The electrical fuel pump will run for about 20 seconds. Give the pump a few cycles before proceeding. Watch for fuel at the loose plug-tighten.
Some pull the injection pump relay to run the fuel pump without starting the engine, but the FSM warns that a fault code may result and require the DRB to re-set it.
Step 13: Start engine and check for leaks. Correct as needed with engine off.

The engine may not start, or it may start but die. Try the bump start several times again to run the lift pump. Then try cranking for 10 seconds at a time, allowing the lift pump to complete the run cycle after each start attempt. This may take several more attempts, especially if the lift pump is weak or the fuel lines siphoned dry when the canister was drained.
As a last resort, bleeding the fuel lines may be necessary. Begin at the filter and continue along the fuel line to the injector pump until all air is purged. Torque the banjo bolt to 18 ft-lbs.

 

Hey thanks guys,

I am still confused, there are two brass bolts that I can loosen, but nothing in the center, other than it looks like there is a bolt from underneath the canister comming thru the top. Does anyone have a picture?

 

Anyway.....

I had the instructions for the 00/01's
Here they are for people who are searhcing in the future:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm

 

You should see a nut dead center in the top of the canister lid.
Loosen that nut, the stud it's threaded onto goes down through the fuel bowl.
The two brass plugs are "Test Ports" for "before" and "after" filter fuel pressure readings.




The nut you need to loosen is hidden behind the needle valve in the picture.

 

You are looking for a nut on top, and in the center of the housing, not a bolt. 9/16 I think.

 

OK, cool thanks, but one problem, my filter looks just like this but there is no head on the bolt in the center, its either broken off (which I hope not, or something else? BUt at least now I know I do not go from underneath the filter housing.

One more question, does this bolt go thru the filter housing, and if so I am wondering if the last guy put the bolt on from underneath? what is the size of the head on the bolt?

You guys are great!

 

Not sure what you are looking at. If there is no nut on the threaded part in the center of your fuel filter housing it would not stay togeather.

 

It threads into the filter. It's right behind the needle valve in the picture.

 

I just changed the filter on my 12 valve and scratched up my arms pretty bad, but finally got it done. One thing I did that probably others have already hit upon, but will pass it on just to be sure:
Instead of prefilling the filter with diesel fuel, simply screw it on just short of making contact with the gasket. Then push diesel into the filter through the drain port in the bottom until it runs out at the top. I did this with a piece of hose and a plastic squeeze bottle. Only had a minor amount of air which took only about 3-4 pumps of the manual primer to get out. Just got my 1995 diesel and first filter change, so it will be easier next time. That sucker was really frozen on the gasket.