Rattlerattle

Howdy,

Helping a buddy do his front breaks. 95 2500 4x4.

So I got the rotor off and half of the hub. The other hub is still on the spindle and it won't come off.

Have tried the BFH and two cans of liquid wrench or similar products.

The four bolts are out of the back of the hub. Any other sugestions? He has new hubs that can be picked up at the local auto parts store if these ones can't be pressed back together. But the other half of the hub has to be seperated first.

Thanks

1shotgun1

I saw a post one time where you unbolt the entire hub like you have and then you turn the steering all the way in one direction and you put a socket or some kind of spacer in between the ujoint and the inside of the nub(maybe on a bolt loose but still in the hole) and then you turn the steering back to straight and it pushes the hub off?? best I can remember

jaconst

put the bolts about 1/4 way in disconnect the tie rod linkage turn hub assembly so it can be easily struck with a hammer and place old socket over the bolts and wack away I got some stubborn ones off my old 95 like that after hours of unsuccesful tries other ways. good luck
when I went to buy the whole hub assembly I could only find a dealer because the rotors are pressed onto bearing hub assembly they cost something like $320 each what did you find?

FRANKV469

are you referring to the unitized hub bearing assembly? if so, i changed them on my '97 2 years ago. i made the mistake of putting a large puller and a 3/4'' air wrench on them to get them apart- finding out later that it was a waste of time to do so and that they cannot be rebuilt or reassembled. i bought mine at napa for about $220. each ( i changed both sides). the bad thing is- when i got the truck inspected this past march, one had already gone bad. thank god for lifetime warranties!

Rattlerattle

Well, managed to get them off. One side separtated which was press back together and the other side came off in one piece. The local napa said $350 a side or $600 for both (canadian)

Will have to put it back together tomorrow.

Thanks for the replys

torquefan

Next time, remove the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, but LEAVE THE AXLE SHAFT NUT TIGHT. Break the hub loose from the knuckle however you desire, (I use a prybar between the rotor and the knuckle) then remove the hub and rotor complete with the axleshaft. The bearing will never separate this way.

Rattlerattle

Well they went back on today.

The hub that separted seemed to be find on a test drive.

TGCTD

I know its to late for this post, but if anyone is still interested,the simplest way to remove hubs off the front of Dodge Rams Is 1.Remove rotor and caliper(if removable).2.Remove axle nut and washer.3 Remove all hub retaining bolts. 4. Take a deep impact socket(app. 3" in length). and place it between the u-joint cross area,closest to knuckle and the differential housing.5. Start truck and turn steering wheel in direction that allows socket to push off hub. It's like having a built in hydraulic press and saves on beating up those expensive hubs or ruining the retaining bolts,or threads in the hub. Tony

jaconst

TGCTD
thats all fine an dandy if you don't have ABS in the front I have another thread talking about my $300 mistake by taking the hub ***. out with a socket against the knuckle on the shaft and turning the wheel not alot of them are abs 4 wheel though

TGCTD

I never heard of this. what was ruined,the tone wheel or the sensor? How was it damaged? Need more info for prevention of similar problem. Tony

jaconst

the wheel that is on the knuckle on the end shaft thing. I put the socket between the knuckle and the sensor wheel thinking it was the backside of the bearing hub assembly. the wheel looks a little like a gear or sprocket. do you have ABS in the front or 4 wheel ABS I believe most trucks especially older 2nd gens are rear ABS only. GOOD LUCK hope I'M SOME HELP

TGCTD

Yes i do have 4WAL. If you were to put the socket between the u-joint and the housing, the socket pushes on the axle shaft,and pushes the bearing out. No pressure is applied to the tone wheel. Placing the socket on the cross part of the axle where one of the u-joint caps are located and the axle housing.Harder to describe than show. However no pressure is exerted on the tone wheel. Tony

jaconst

I had thought that the tone wheel was part of the hub not the shaft, as this is my first ABS in the front. lesson learned but I just put the new shaft with tone wheel and new u-joint on after driving around week and a half with abs and brake light on but all is fine now, time to get spending on the goodies now Ive got it down to do the whole hub in less than hour with impact on wheel and axle nut so I just jack it in the air and I don't have to worry about wheel spin

fschiola

Not to change the subject but if you have a tone wheel on the front does it mean you have 4WAL? How can you tell, by the build list or???