Erratic starting issue
What if it is full synthetic castrol.
Should I atleast maybe run it through a paint strainer first or something?
Dang man, you got my brain working.
How much used oil could I run in my tank at a time with out clogging anything up?
I guess what I am asking is should I watch the percentages as to how much used oil to a certain amount of new deisel oil In the tank?
It just so happens that my son has a body shop with a towing business and he goes through a lot of oil changes in his equipment. We are talking about probably 50 galons a year. I can`t trust it to be clean though and would have to sit up a filter system to run it through.
Gee, I sure would hate to damage my pump and or injectors.
Dang I need to research this some more,lol.
I LIKE CHEAP FUEL!
I just found a site. It has a lot of discussion on burning used motor oil. Sounds like the older engines like mine will burn just about anything.
I do fear dirt. I already bought one injector pump, sure don`t want to o that again.
I am going to rig me a filtering system to process used motor oil.
I should be able to saw the oil filter mounting housings off a couple old chevrolet small block engines and plumb them in tandem for a couple extreemly small micron sized oil filters for removing dirt. I already have an old pump off a parts cleaner. Hmmm, I am about to save some dollars.
Thank you patdaly.
I do fear dirt. I already bought one injector pump, sure don`t want to o that again.
I am going to rig me a filtering system to process used motor oil.
I should be able to saw the oil filter mounting housings off a couple old chevrolet small block engines and plumb them in tandem for a couple extreemly small micron sized oil filters for removing dirt. I already have an old pump off a parts cleaner. Hmmm, I am about to save some dollars.
Thank you patdaly.
No problems, always like to help keep the environment clean.
BTW, if you want a cheap oil filter arrangement, look for a 90's S10 4x4 or S10 Blazer 4X4 in the junkyard. They remote mounted the oil filters up on the core support. Should be a ton in your local scrap yards..... Don't freak out about going ultra small micron, I literally just dump it in, never any issues.
I have run up to 50/50 when I could get oil, but now I just re-use my own, everyplace else around here sells their used oil to the recyclers.
BTW, technically you owe road tax for the amount you use..........
BTW, if you want a cheap oil filter arrangement, look for a 90's S10 4x4 or S10 Blazer 4X4 in the junkyard. They remote mounted the oil filters up on the core support. Should be a ton in your local scrap yards..... Don't freak out about going ultra small micron, I literally just dump it in, never any issues.
I have run up to 50/50 when I could get oil, but now I just re-use my own, everyplace else around here sells their used oil to the recyclers.
BTW, technically you owe road tax for the amount you use..........
I just found a site. It has a lot of discussion on burning used motor oil. Sounds like the older engines like mine will burn just about anything.
I do fear dirt. I already bought one injector pump, sure don`t want to o that again.
I am going to rig me a filtering system to process used motor oil.
I should be able to saw the oil filter mounting housings off a couple old chevrolet small block engines and plumb them in tandem for a couple extreemly small micron sized oil filters for removing dirt. I already have an old pump off a parts cleaner. Hmmm, I am about to save some dollars.
Thank you patdaly.
I do fear dirt. I already bought one injector pump, sure don`t want to o that again.
I am going to rig me a filtering system to process used motor oil.
I should be able to saw the oil filter mounting housings off a couple old chevrolet small block engines and plumb them in tandem for a couple extreemly small micron sized oil filters for removing dirt. I already have an old pump off a parts cleaner. Hmmm, I am about to save some dollars.
Thank you patdaly.
No problems, always like to help keep the environment clean.
BTW, if you want a cheap oil filter arrangement, look for a 90's S10 4x4 or S10 Blazer 4X4 in the junkyard. They remote mounted the oil filters up on the core support. Should be a ton in your local scrap yards..... Don't freak out about going ultra small micron, I literally just dump it in, never any issues.
I have run up to 50/50 when I could get oil, but now I just re-use my own, everyplace else around here sells their used oil to the recyclers.
BTW, technically you owe road tax for the amount you use..........
BTW, if you want a cheap oil filter arrangement, look for a 90's S10 4x4 or S10 Blazer 4X4 in the junkyard. They remote mounted the oil filters up on the core support. Should be a ton in your local scrap yards..... Don't freak out about going ultra small micron, I literally just dump it in, never any issues.
I have run up to 50/50 when I could get oil, but now I just re-use my own, everyplace else around here sells their used oil to the recyclers.
BTW, technically you owe road tax for the amount you use..........
Oh thank you so much for that piece of info. I `ll start a special account for when the bill coms due. Lets see maybe a ledger for tracking the gallons, hmmm. Lmao, i`ll be a cold day in h--l
Thanks for the info on the GM remore filters.
However, have you ever seen a mechanic clean around the drain plug on an oil pan before draining oil? Or making sure that no grime accidentally falls into his catch pan? I use to do a lot of oil changes and I can testify to how much dirt and grime that will cross contaminate to oil from the ajoining tools, containers and underneath chassis of an automobile. I would probably be changing my fuel filter every couple months,lol.
I feel safer by re-cleaning the oil before using it in my system.
But thank you for your input
Ed
Ed, I think that is more a function of what synthetic base it is. Some people report no problems, others not so much. I have nothing other than a hunch it is related to if the base stock is petroleum based or true synthetic. Myself, I would put a bit in the bottom of a pan, and hit it with a torch, if it caught fire, I would run it.
As for the rest of the info, just making sure you are as good of a citizen as I am..........
BTW, what oil change interval do you use with the synthetic? Not sure it is really worth it unless you live in the frigid north.
As for the rest of the info, just making sure you are as good of a citizen as I am..........

BTW, what oil change interval do you use with the synthetic? Not sure it is really worth it unless you live in the frigid north.
6k to 7k mles including a new filter. I have been guilty of almost 8k one time when I was just too busy to get the stuff changed.
We buy most of our vehicles use from salvage pools that have been totaled by an insurance company. As soon as we get them rebuilt if we plan on keeping the vehicle we immediately change the engine oil over to full synthetic and start them down the road of an oil change every 7k. Been doing this for over 20 years and have never lost an engine. We drive a lot on gravel and dirt roads. We live about 15 miles from the nearest town and over a hundred from the nearest city. So we really depend on our vehicles.
Imho the full synthetic oil does a far superior job of lubricating than the run of the mill stuff. There is no doubt it is a slicker oil. Dip a screw driver in regular oil and then hold it by the tip. Then do it with full syn. on it.
We buy most of our vehicles use from salvage pools that have been totaled by an insurance company. As soon as we get them rebuilt if we plan on keeping the vehicle we immediately change the engine oil over to full synthetic and start them down the road of an oil change every 7k. Been doing this for over 20 years and have never lost an engine. We drive a lot on gravel and dirt roads. We live about 15 miles from the nearest town and over a hundred from the nearest city. So we really depend on our vehicles.
Imho the full synthetic oil does a far superior job of lubricating than the run of the mill stuff. There is no doubt it is a slicker oil. Dip a screw driver in regular oil and then hold it by the tip. Then do it with full syn. on it.
Ed, no question, but Rotella has many Million mile Diesels as well....
I change mine every 7500 with Rotella, nothing has ever shown up.
But the next time you drop the oil, put a little in a pan and try it with a propane torch.......
I change mine every 7500 with Rotella, nothing has ever shown up.
But the next time you drop the oil, put a little in a pan and try it with a propane torch.......
Ed- I wouldn't be scared of Castrol synthetic burning in my 12 valve- I "think" it is a blend/highly refined dino oil, not a full synthetic like Amsoil. And I have put over 600 gal. thru mine without any problems. 50/50 mix, 90% one time when my kid was watching the guage when it was filling
It ran a little rough until it got mixed with some #2!!!
It ran a little rough until it got mixed with some #2!!!
Howdy all
Up date on the starting problem with my 95 dodge cummins
Rather than try the repairs my self I contacted an old friend that mechaniced in one of our local mopar dealerships. He had just quit his job and opened his own shop and needed some work. When I explained my start problem he agreed with the members on here who said it was probably dry rotted rubber lines, and, which it did in fact turn out to be badly dry rotted rubber lines. He replaced the lines but also found another bleed off some where else in the pump system. He also repaired it. Now my truck starts like it did when it was new. The mechanic also tweeked something else. As I was leaving he told me I would probably notice it ran a little better. And, sure nuff it`s now an official asphalt wrinkler.
Anyhow, Just wanted to thank everyone for all the tips and advice. It helps when one can go into a shop half way knowing what might be the problem.
Ed
Up date on the starting problem with my 95 dodge cummins
Rather than try the repairs my self I contacted an old friend that mechaniced in one of our local mopar dealerships. He had just quit his job and opened his own shop and needed some work. When I explained my start problem he agreed with the members on here who said it was probably dry rotted rubber lines, and, which it did in fact turn out to be badly dry rotted rubber lines. He replaced the lines but also found another bleed off some where else in the pump system. He also repaired it. Now my truck starts like it did when it was new. The mechanic also tweeked something else. As I was leaving he told me I would probably notice it ran a little better. And, sure nuff it`s now an official asphalt wrinkler.
Anyhow, Just wanted to thank everyone for all the tips and advice. It helps when one can go into a shop half way knowing what might be the problem.
Ed
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