What is up with this fuel gauge.

I have not had the truck a week, when I bought it, it showed just over a half tank of fuel ( I know this does not really mean anything, but most gauges are some what close).

Some where around 40 to 60 miles later, I get home from work and when I pull into my drive way it reads just under 1/2 a tank. That night, I go to run an errand and as I'm backing out the guage says empty and the light comes on.

My drive way does have a good slope to it so I brushed it off and headed to town, the light did go off the needle would not go above about 1/16th of a tank of fuel.

So I was on the hunt for a gas station that had diesel, 5 stations later I filled the truck up. 18 Gal worth. Gauge went to Full.

Now if I have a 34 Gal tank, this gauge has some serious issues.

I usuall don't go by the gauge so no big deal to me, but the wife will be driving the truck, and I don't want her to run it out of fuel

So is this normal for the Dodge fuel gauge?

What is the prices for parts?

Thanks

 

They are well known to fail.
A new sender will run you around $36 at the dealer.

 

When you remove the tank (or the bulkhead ) take a close look at the quick connect fittings as they may have become porous. I used 10mm rubber hose to replace the lines. If you do it while you have the tank removed it's a piece of cake.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

Thanks for the info,

this will have to take second seat, as I'm putting in gauges first.

I will look into complete fuel line upgrade when I drop the tank for the sender.

 

What fails on the fuel pickup is the pivot pin for the float. Just drop the tank, unscrew the fuel pick-up assembly and pull it up and out. You will see the goofy elcheapo pin used by Dodge, it will likely be bent to one side and flopping around, or completely eaten through. Get a chunk of aluminum welding rod, and make and put in a new pin. The entire fix will run you about a buck, plus your time.

That is very good advice on changing the fuel pick-up hose. Just replace it and the return hose, while you are there.

 

RCW

I have an abundant supply of Stainless Steel welding rod, I'm sure that will work too. What size did you use, I would like to have it before I pull the tank.

 

I had the same symptoms. It seemed like it had a mind of its own. Mine seemed tight when I pulled it apart. I installed a new one and it's OK now.

If you want my old one, I'll send it to you to experiment with, or you might be able to fix it up and do a swap.

Chris

 

On my old one the resistor tracks had been worn through- I had some nasty jumps including loosing contact completely even though the pivot was OK. It was real fun to watch- a kind of fuel lottery. Lots of ding ding and full and half and ding-ding and 3/4 etc showing on the gauge. (Within about 2 miles you could have all needle positions checked)

AlpineRAM

 

I would be more concerned with having a new sender on hand than the right size rod. There is more than just the pivot that goes wrong with these things.

 

The info is great everyone, didn't expect this much.

Infidel, When I pull the tank I will be doing everything I can to fix this problem and any others, while I have the tank down. Don't want to drop it more than once. I guess I'm lazy that way.

If there are any other suggestions or things that I should check out please let me know.

 

I personally prefer to lift the bed rather than drop the tank especially if you have a gauge that makes it hard to run low without chancing running out of fuel. Just remove the three bolts holding bed on the drivers side and loosen the ones on the pass side. Disconnect the fill tube and vent. Jack it up about 18'', place a 2x4 prop in-between the bed and frame to prevent it falling on you. If you don't have a jack that will do it a come-a-long over a branch or beam will work. Two big people (or one strong one)lifting with small one to place the prop will do it also.
Makes it a heck of a lot easier to disconnect the wiring and fuel lines when you can see them.

 

Infidel,

Thanks for the info, I was dreading dropping the tank. This sounds much easier, especially since it give you 18" of room to work. I do have a jack that will work great.

Infidel, do you have that part number for the sender handy, if not don't worry about it, the dealer here is ... well... worthless, in all sense of the word. I might get a relay instead of a sender

Now I'm just waiting to burn off most of that fuel

Thanks again everyone.

 

The Dodge number is 04797738. Be adamant that you want just the sender, many times the dealer will try to tell you that it isn't available separately and that you have to buy the complete module for $300.

No need to run your tank down if you are going to lift the bed, it makes absolutely no difference.

 

I believe there is a bullitin on the 98-99 diesels with erratic fuel gauges that required that the whole module be replaced. I do recall a few years one truck that we checked history on and it had two senders installed but the prob would re-occur after time. Installing the module took care of the prob.

Went and looked...tsb was 08-42-99, but it dealt with a prob of the fuel gauge remaining at the full position. Had to do with a possible sticking float.

 

Thanks for the heads up J BODY, I will remember that, mine doesn't stick and it does fairly well on 1/2 to full but after half a tank and below it can read any where in the middle or completely empty