engine died ????
engine died ????
Yesterday my truck stalled on the freeway. Just like someone shut off the ignition switch. Now it will not start back up.
I checked for codes but none came up. I disconnected my EZ. but still nothing. HELP
. any ideas will be great. thanks in advance
I checked for codes but none came up. I disconnected my EZ. but still nothing. HELP
. any ideas will be great. thanks in advance
Fuel pressure to VP44? Fuel to injectors? Sometime the VP will fail without setting a code.
As a LOOOONG shot, try resetting the APPS.
Question:APPS Reset ProcedureAnswer:This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.
1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake
As a LOOOONG shot, try resetting the APPS.
Question:APPS Reset ProcedureAnswer:This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.
1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake
Make sure you have fuel at the inkjectors: If you've good pressure on the VP side of the filter, and none at the injectors....BAD sign for the VP44! I am not sure if anyone has actually quantified how MUCH fuel you need to see there, but...when I cracked mine after the FASS installation (to regain prime) there didn't seem to be a WHOLE bunch -
Good luck, hope it's something else! (You are reading FP AFTER the filter, correct?)
Good luck, hope it's something else! (You are reading FP AFTER the filter, correct?)
My fuel gauge is after the filter. Well I guess it doesn't look very good for my finances
.
This is the third VP I've had to replace on this truck @136000 mi. 1st. 2 were warranty. Looks like I eat the third
. There goes the money I've been saving for transmission upgrades.
i need to get prices on a VP. anybody???
. This is the third VP I've had to replace on this truck @136000 mi. 1st. 2 were warranty. Looks like I eat the third
. There goes the money I've been saving for transmission upgrades.i need to get prices on a VP. anybody???
3rd VP?!?!? Wow, I think some troubleshooting is in order before you throw another $1.2K into it? There must be SOMETHING eating your IP's, do you use a lubricant / additive in your fuel, does your LP go intermittent on you (are you running factory or a FASS / Walbro?), are your IP e-connections solid (reducing intermittent opens / voltage spikes)....
Good luck, perhaps it will turn out to be something other than the IP....
Rauschbo
Good luck, perhaps it will turn out to be something other than the IP....
Rauschbo
Trending Topics
I've been through 4 LP's under warranty. last one was in December while still under warranty. Since than I've added a Holley blue and a pressure gauge.
I think when my last LP failed I didn't catch it on time and dammage was already done to the VP. I travel about 120 miles a day round trip to work and home. So I know it won't take long to ruin a VP44.
I think when my last LP failed I didn't catch it on time and dammage was already done to the VP. I travel about 120 miles a day round trip to work and home. So I know it won't take long to ruin a VP44.
I agree, something ain't right or you're the unluckiest person around. I don't know what the specs are, but I would be checking the voltages and grounds to the Holly blue and the VP$$.
You may be able to get at least part of the VP cost covered under warranty. When I had a trans problem, (no reverse, fixed itself) without finding a cause, I was told that even if it failed after warranty, it would be at least partly covered, since a problem occured under warranty. It failed about 1500 miles after warranty and was compeletly covered.
Nothing to lose by checking into it. Good luck.
Nothing to lose by checking into it. Good luck.
I guess I'm just unlucky. checked fuel entering VP plenty at inlet side. removed injector line at #1 when cranking the engine not even enough fuel to wet the head came out. Last night I checked and tested everything and it all seemed good even changed my fuel pressure gauge. to be sure of the pressure which read 14psi.. This weekend I'm going to replace all my fuel lines with larger ones. take two asprins and hope this doesn't happen again.
I believe there is an issue with the reman's out of Czechoslovakia (somebody chime in if I'm geographically lost on this one!), and there have been mentions of a more robust electronics package in the IP's, these are the "FedEx" VP's...apparently, heat is the prime killer of the IP, and the e-package in the FedEx can withstand it a lot better....



And if its bad where can I get a new one at a fair price?