dang front rotors!!!!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 826
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From: Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
Originally posted by Redleg
Changing the seals on the front is usually a waste of sweat, unless your axle shafts are perfect where the contact the seals. The axles will probably have rust right up to the point, and even past, where they contact the seal. You have to clean them with emery cloth, but if there are still any grooves or pits, it'll wear out the new seal and start leaking before long. Too much labor without checking the shafts first.
Changing the seals on the front is usually a waste of sweat, unless your axle shafts are perfect where the contact the seals. The axles will probably have rust right up to the point, and even past, where they contact the seal. You have to clean them with emery cloth, but if there are still any grooves or pits, it'll wear out the new seal and start leaking before long. Too much labor without checking the shafts first.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
Originally posted by infidel
That's funny they said the same thing to me on some '95 rotors. I wasn't in a hurry so I said ship them when available. They were on my doorstep two days later...
That's funny they said the same thing to me on some '95 rotors. I wasn't in a hurry so I said ship them when available. They were on my doorstep two days later...
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9
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From: MA
Berner, you saved my life.
I pounded on those stupid 14 mil 12 point bolts with a 3/4" piece of pipe over the head to protect it for over two hours! I mushroomed the pipe three times and kept cutting it off to hammer some more. I even broke a bearing puller on it and was probably lucky NOT to have separated the bearing.
Finally I gave up for the night and searched for a forum that might know something about the matter. A local auto parts store said there was a special tool that attached to your air hammer to beat the bolts out and I was going to order it the next day when I came upon this thread. It really was as DZLPWR said--both sides popped out in literal seconds! It took longer to place the socket between the u-joint and the end of the axle tube than to push the bearing out of the knuckle.
Unfortuantely, the axle nuts were spalled as were the axle ends so they had to be replaced. Advice above to go to a differential shop is right on. Dealer--$260.00 each and none in stock nearby. Aftermarket shop--$69.00 each and had them the same afternoon--made by Spicer too. Simply cut out the old U-joints and pressed in new ones, then LOADED up the bearing bores with anti-sieze.
Thanks again for tip--I never would have gotten those things off without your help.
-Rob
I pounded on those stupid 14 mil 12 point bolts with a 3/4" piece of pipe over the head to protect it for over two hours! I mushroomed the pipe three times and kept cutting it off to hammer some more. I even broke a bearing puller on it and was probably lucky NOT to have separated the bearing.
Finally I gave up for the night and searched for a forum that might know something about the matter. A local auto parts store said there was a special tool that attached to your air hammer to beat the bolts out and I was going to order it the next day when I came upon this thread. It really was as DZLPWR said--both sides popped out in literal seconds! It took longer to place the socket between the u-joint and the end of the axle tube than to push the bearing out of the knuckle.
Unfortuantely, the axle nuts were spalled as were the axle ends so they had to be replaced. Advice above to go to a differential shop is right on. Dealer--$260.00 each and none in stock nearby. Aftermarket shop--$69.00 each and had them the same afternoon--made by Spicer too. Simply cut out the old U-joints and pressed in new ones, then LOADED up the bearing bores with anti-sieze.
Thanks again for tip--I never would have gotten those things off without your help.
-Rob
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