Im trying to get my drivers side front rotor/hub off to replace ball joints, but it wont budge!!!! Ive got the 4 bolts out the back and the axle nut off.Ive tried tapping it with a hammer. What am i missing?? Ive also tried a 3 jaw puller as well and no go. I did a search and no help except i saw a link for another method involving putting a socket behind the hub somewere and turning the wheel?? (link expired) Anybody know what to do??? I need this thing back on the road asap.

 

Dzlpower, you can try screwing a longer bolt back in where you took the 4 12 point 14 mm bolts that hold the bearing, then use a air chisel with a punch adapter and hammer on those heads, you will be able to drive the bearing out, till your bolts bottom out. Hope this helps, works for me, I have four extra bolts for doing jobs like this. Don't forget to soak it real good with PB Blaster or some other GOOD penetrating fluid.

Rick

 

The socket method involves turning the wheels to the right, rotating the tire until the U-joint is up/down putting a socket in against the rearside of the U-joint and housing, then straightening the steering wheel. The hub should pop loose. Soak it down with penetrating oil first. Put lots of Never-Sieze on it when you put it back together.

 

Wow, 5 hours of grunting, cusin, pulling, spending money, banging, threatining to light the truck on fire......come in and read the above post and pop, its off in a total of 7 seconds. Thats the way to go. Thanks berner.
Now, my ball joint replacement has evolved into a bigger list.
1. New ball joints on all 4 corners
2. Turn rotors
3. New brake pads
4. Axle seals
5. Lots of anti-sieze
6. Possible new hub bearing on drivers side. I can feel play if i shake mounting flange, but if i press on it and spin it seems okay. ???
Now, ive read that i have to remove the 3rd member for axle seal replacement. If this is true, will i have to adjust any thing when it put it back in??? Something about some caps that have to be put in exactly right??
Anybody have some tips for the above parts and replacement? TIA Thanks for who replied

 

Seal replacement -
http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm

First make sure you really need to replace the seals. If the axle tube came out during the struggle to remove the rotor oil will leak past the seal into the axle tube where it can take a month or more to completely leak out.

The seals will also leak if the differential is filled to the bottom of the fill hole instead of the factory recommend 3/4" below the bottom of the hole. Just lowering the level will stop a leak but it will still take a while to clear up since again the axle tube takes a long time to drain.



I no long turn the rotors on these trucks, waste of money when you can buy new high quality Brembo rotors for $56/ea from www.tirerack.com

 

don't you have to press the rotors to the bearing hub assembly?

 

No, on a 4x4 the unit bearing comes off when you pound the wheel studs out.

 

If you have felt play in the front hub bearing assembly, replace it. These are set up with a bit of preload when new. Do not go to Dodge, but go to a differential shop for your new bearing package, they will be better and much less expensive.

 

The seals are a major PITA to change. I've done my passenger side. I made a puller arrangement with a couple of plates from a seal driver kit and a piece of all-thread and was able to pull the seal in without removing the carrier assembly and hammering the seal in from the driver's side. There's a special tool available to install them but the service dept at the local dealer here was pretty tight-lipped on what the tool looked like. They wanted me to bring the truck in. Quoted me 4 hrs labour to do both sides. Stupid design. It's almost like somebody who has never held a wrench in their hand designed it.

 

Are these available for my '01? I couldn't find them.

 

They very well may be available but not listed.
I'm not sure when changes occurred but wouldn't doubt if previous years used the same rotors. Best bet would be to contact the dealer or a good auto parts and see which years used the same rotors then try a search at tirerack with a different model year. This is what I did to get rotors for a '97, they were the same ones as for '94-'95.

 

I know the rotors are different than the late 90's. Mine has much larger calipers and a rotor that slips over the studs like a "regular" rotor. You do not have to remove the hub like the older ones. I'll call Tire Rack and see if they just don't list my application.

 

Changing the seals on the front is usually a waste of sweat, unless your axle shafts are perfect where the contact the seals. The axles will probably have rust right up to the point, and even past, where they contact the seal. You have to clean them with emery cloth, but if there are still any grooves or pits, it'll wear out the new seal and start leaking before long. Too much labor without checking the shafts first.

 

FYI,

I called Tire Rack today and they do carry the Brembo rotors for the 2000-02 trucks (front only) at a GREAT price ($78.00).

Bad News:
They are currently out of stock with NO anticipated delivery time. Sales guy said it could be 12-14 WEEKS.


Brembo part number for the rotors is 27126.

 

That's funny they said the same thing to me on some '95 rotors. I wasn't in a hurry so I said ship them when available. They were on my doorstep two days later...