First emergency help request since I purchased in 5/01.

Was darn sure that the volts were always more like 14 than 12 until the "check Gauges" light came on tonight. Is 12v or less the al;arm point? Tonight I was in a parking lot when the chime went off and then I noticed the check gauges light was lit. I was stopping to drop off used oil so I turned the head lights out and after unloading the oil the check gauges light was out. As soon as I turned the lights on the chime alarmed then check gauges lit up? I've been noticing the lower than normal voltages and slightly lower LP psi at idle. Almost like the grids were on and wrote it off to it's been cold in the am.

This normally wouldn't be an emergency help request but, as Murphy's Law applies, I'm planning a small trip in the early hours tomorrow morning. Any ideas - I installed the comp box & injectors last weekend only thing I messed with would be disconnecting the neg leads on both batteries. That's my first place to check in the am. I'll make sure I can start it, then shut down, remove the (1.5 year old) batteries, check electrolyte, clean all surfaces, and connections then re-install. Any other ideas?

Thanks
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I would bet the alternator is not charging properly.

 

- I'm with Doorguy on this, sounds like you're not charging, COULD BE the alternator - although you might check to make sure your grid's aren't on ALL the time. Giveaway - when you turn the headlights on, the alarm sounds. Since you recently disconnected the batteries, checking the re-connections might solve the issue....
....if it IS the alternator, getting one rebuilt locally can save you about $150 (it did for mine; 105K miles, brushes were shot).

 

Hmmmmm,.......Dropping off used oil?
Like right after you just changed the oil and filter in your truck?
Did you happen to see a fat spark from the back of the alternator during the oil filter removal/installation?

Check the main alternator fuse (I think its about 140 amps) in the power distribution center under the hood.
A very common problem.
Many folks have grounded out that 12V+ stud on the back of the alternator while trying to get the oil filter off which blows the main fuse.

 

- good sleuthing!!!!
However, if the CEL light only comes on when additional load is presented (turning the lights on), I think the alternator must be charging - marginally - indicating that the fuse is fine...?

 

Unless he's running off the batteries..........

 

Sorry I didn't post results . It was a bad alternator, not oil change related just outlived it's usefull life 144k miles - I guess.

Here's a note to remember if you think your's is on it's way - it must be tested on the truck. I found out by listening to the parts guy. After I took it off and brought it to him he disapeared for 15 minutes with it then announced "uh, the machine says it doesn't support testing this alternator and that it must be tested on the truck, sorry dude" . I had performed a little test of my own before taking it off - with motor running I disconnected both positive leads - yep it died. Once the new alternator was on and got a jump from the wife's Volvo I drove around for 10 minutes and all is well .

 

Nice to know about the test. Here is another tidbit I was going to post before your last.
My batteries, both died unexpectly one day to the next. I would get the batteries checked too. It is possible that the bad alt. didn't charge the batteries properly and they may be bad too or getting there.

 

Thanks for the update.

Good news that you're back on the road.