Too many problems. First my tach died then shortly after my amp guage was reading under 14 (about 11-13). It always sits right in the middle. Figured it was altinator. Went to test it and napa said they couldn't. Bought a new altinator, charged the batts replaced one loose end of my batt cable and now it starts. Amp guage is still under norm so only a matter of time till batts die again. Going to another napa since truck is running and going to see if they can diagnose. Is the tach totally coincidental? Everything Dodge is breaking on this formally reliable truck. Pls help.

 

If the PCM doesn't see an RPM signal from the engine speed sensor it won't turn on the ASD relay which powers the alternator field circuit. Have a look at the engine speed sensor down by the harmonic balancer, make sure its wiring and connector are ok too.

 

check crank sender and wiring

 

What clops said check the crank sensor. With no signal from the crank sensor the computer dosent think the engine is running.

 

Napa bench tested the alterator and it was putting out 12 got s new one off the shelf and it tested the same. Replaced it and waiting for another one from Reno. Going to have him test it and see if it puts out 14. How do I check the crank sensor? Thanks for the info. The guy at the local garage figures that at least that both alts are bad.

 

id keep the original alt. and pay the core if its reasonable, and rebuild it yourself.

 

Well, really you want to check for ground and +5v on the connector with the key on- can check the FSM tomorrow to let you know which wires- just did this myself.
if they chek out replace the ess- FSM refers reader to the diagnostic manual for specific diagnosis but the diagnostic manual has nothing about the ess so aside from checking that the PCM is actually supplying ground and +5v there is really little to be done.
Odds are the ess is bad. Several threads in the 2nd gen section on these including referrals to instructions on changing it. Took me 5 hours, about 1 hour was spent trying to figure out how to do it easier...

 

On a '95 you need an oscilloscope or a DRM scan tool.
If the ESS wiring, connector and gap check out it would probably be cheaper to just replace the sensor.
Common auto parts item.

 

by the way have you scanned for any codes?