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Brake Pad removal problems!!!

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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:06 PM
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kevellis32's Avatar
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From: Fort Collins CO
Angry Brake Pad removal problems!!!

Ok, so i bought myself some pads to put on and after i got my tires and drivers side caliper removed i went to the passenger side and noticed that both allen screws were stripped by the previous owner rather bad and could barely get my allen wrench to not slip out of the hole. So i had to put both tires and the one removed caliper back on b/c it was getting dark...ANY ideas on how to get those **** stripped allen screws out? My pads have maybe a few hundred city miles left on them so i need them out soon and don't really want to bring it to a shop, but if i have to
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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From: DFW Texas
I don't know if this idea will work for your application but I've used Vise-Grips for stripped allen screws. Do the heads of the allen screws protrude enough to get a pair of Vise-Grips on them?
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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From: Fort Collins CO
Yea they protrude about a 1/4 an inch, but i know that there is no possible way to get that screw out with vise grips, It took me a cheater bar to get the others off. I have heard that you can use a dremmel and cut lil slots in it to use a flat head screw driver...But then i still don't know how i can loosen that screw enough to get it out, Those screws are in there TIGHT. I was using penetrating oil on them too.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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From: New Holland, PA
A couple suggestions: a screw extractor might work, or you could use a hammer and cold chisel and tap the bolt counter-clockwise, or use a
Dremel or a hacksaw and cut a slot for a big screwdriver.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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Whats a screw extractor? and how does it work...The hammer and chissel idea may work well, thats how i got my screw of my AFC
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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From: somewhere in northwestern ohio....Mansfield, Oh
A good pair of visegrips has always worked for me.Put them on and tap them with a brass hammer.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:38 PM
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At this point, if the other suggestions fail, I would just grind the heads off and start over. Grind the heads off and the caliper should slide right off, then put a vise grip or small pipe wrench on them. Rebuilt calipers will have new bolts, or you may be able to look through core boxes at the parts store for "new" old bolts. If the parts dude is a nice guy. They are specialized "shoulder bolts" so please don't try to use anything else than what is supposed to be there. Could be bad if the calipers came off.

I feel you pain man! The knucklehead probably used the wrong size (metric) allen wrench. It takes a 3/8" allen wrench. (Righty tighty, lefty loosy) I just bought a socket one so I can use my 3/8" ratchet.

Good luck! and let us know how you come out!
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:44 PM
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berner's Avatar
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From: Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
You can buy a flathead screwdriver bit that fits on a 3/8" ratchet. I use one to tighten my fuel plate.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:46 PM
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From: Nebraska
Originally posted by John Halter
A good pair of visegrips has always worked for me.Put them on and tap them with a brass hammer.
That works for me too!

R = tight
L = loose

BUT you are facing backwards so be careful!
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 08:50 PM
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Originally posted by kevellis32
Yea they protrude about a 1/4 an inch, but i know that there is no possible way to get that screw out with vise grips, It took me a cheater bar to get the others off. I have heard that you can use a dremmel and cut lil slots in it to use a flat head screw driver...But then i still don't know how i can loosen that screw enough to get it out, Those screws are in there TIGHT. I was using penetrating oil on them too.
They DO NOT need to be that tight. I've done 7 brake jobs on my front. I don't know what the torque specs are, but I can get mine off with a good "bump" of the ratchet handle with my hand. Rookies always over tighten stuff. When you get new ones put alittle pipe tread dope on them. They will come apart easier next time.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 09:22 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys, I guess i have no choice but to try all your suggestions, i know one will work and i do not have a great deal of money to spend on this due to the holidays so ill make something work. I work at a dealership up here as a detailer and windshiedl installer so hopefully i can convince a tech to do something for me.
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 09:21 AM
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Before you do any modifications to the head of the bolt lock some vice grips on it and tap the back of the vice grip pretty aggressively with a dead blow hammer. That should break it free. Then cut your slots to get it the rest of the way out if you need to. If you cut the slots first and it doesn't work you will just end up collapsing the head. Another thing you can try if space allows is a pipe wrench and cheater bar to break them loose. Good luck.
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 11:26 AM
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try taking the next larger size metric allen , cut it off so it's a straight piece . then you can hammer that in so it's good and tight . Put a metric socket on the other end and give it a try . It mostly works . good luck
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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Originally posted by kevellis32
Thanks for all the help guys, I guess i have no choice but to try all your suggestions, i know one will work and i do not have a great deal of money to spend on this due to the holidays so ill make something work. I work at a dealership up here as a detailer and windshiedl installer so hopefully i can convince a tech to do something for me.
I feel you pain man, good luck! You can do it. Just don't be afraid to get a bigger hammer!
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Old Dec 11, 2004 | 07:57 PM
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I would try to use the next size larger allen wrench, either metric or us. At this point it doesn't matter, the bolt is bad. But pound it in and wrench it out. I've used that trick on many bolts or allens and had good success. Sometimes you can hold a nut up to the bolt head and weld it in place then wrench it out. There are a lot of tricks you can use, just be creative! but use common sense.
Sometimes I've used an air hammer on the corner of the head to break it loose.
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